Cant work out where clutch cable goes

the Kawasaki engine removes pretty straight forward (bolts out , cable off, wires unhooked, etc) , the only difficult part is removing a well worn in power take/off clutch from its shaft , this will take some care if you need to reinstall it

but I will say unless its a total loss (cracked) ive rebuilt enough of them while still in the tractor , the only part you cant replace doing it that way is the bottom oil seal and the crank shaft (its stuck into that clutch I was telling you about )

not a bad little car i think,done one last year for a new clutch and i it was that easy that i honestly do not remember having any problems with it ,only one tip i will offer though and i do this on all motors and thats to drill a hole in the bellhousing with a hole cutter big enough to get a 10mm socket 1/4 drive through the hole to tighten the clutch bolts ,getting to old to struggle now so i make a hle that aligns up with the clutch bolts then fit bolts holding the clutch finger tight then once the box goes in nice and easy as the clutch plate can move a bit then two big bell housing bolts in and then rotate the flywheel twic tightening the bolts one by one .easy better than hurting ones back with a struggle

Make sure the brake is set, and the two 'power' handles are centered, i.e., in neutral position. Both of these have an interlock switch that prevents the mower from being started. Good luck! Please rate if helpful, thanks.

It should be under the left side engine case. un do case screws, remove clutch cable, the clutch should have a series of plates and are held in a basket with a big nut in the centre holding it on to the crank, remove nut and it all should slide off towards you. replace plates and replace every thing in the reverse order, when done make sure that there is 1/4 inch of play in the adjustment of the clutch lever. This means when you pull in the clutch you should not feel any resistance for the first 1/4 clutch lever travel. also when trying to undo clutch centre nut, put the bike in gear and put a steel bar through the spokes of the wheel held against the swing arm to lock up the engine to undo the nut and tighten it.

I have a 2001 Avensis 1.8 VVTi and just had to strip the engine to change the piston rings - the clutch was easy, compared to the rest. The Haynes manual has it all in and the job may take some time. I had access to a fully equipped car hobby club to do mine and i still took 50 hours to out the engine and strip it.

But to be honest, dropping the tranny is the biggest part of the job, the rest is 8 bolts and a clutch plate.
It's the disconnection of the tranny thats the tme consumer - the procedure simplified is - wheel off, track rod end off, wishbone off, CV joint out, electrics to tranny off, support the engine on blocks, support strut off, tranny off, clutch off.
As they say in the Haynes Manual - 'Replacement is the reverse of removal'

Hope this helps in deciding what to do!

It should be bolted to the bolted to the inside of the left crankshaft/engine cover.

I found this 2005 manual, but it should still be the same for the locations ,and you can get it here for free:

http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?fileid=075097119097115097107105095090088054082046054051054095077097110117097108095050048048053095085083046114097114

You will need to have winrar to open it ,and open service and go to page 491

check the clutch if it engage then check the cable and belt to if it works make sure all the bolts are tight. usually the belts is too loose or if its a clutch drive maybe the clutch doesn't engage or worn out.

i had same trouble with clutch-bike sat for two years--i bled clutch system and it works great now--i found to aid the bleeding process i had to back off the bolt a little at the master cylinder and bleed it there too -same as you would a bleeder screw ((( do try not to get fluid on ur paint-of course)))

yeah if it has been thrashed

Sounds like warped fly wheel.