Rear end electrics all dead! where do I start looking please??

ELECTRICS 101 (do you live in the RuST belt? ) wiki it.
first tell all electrics that work and do not (brief), and if engine runs and drives ok.???

all lamps inside and outside matter.
BLINKERS (TURNS) DEAD REAR. well that is bad wring on the rear.
(left rear and left front run off same wire) same is true

what did brake lamps do? BOTH DEAD AND THE 3LAMP TOO usa?
3 dead blinkers.
try a real ASE shop with tech and ASE badge on the sleeve.
the do now what to do,
all 10 + outside parking lamps work? 4 corners and sides.?
the cluster back ground lamps are on a dimmer it must be turned to high to see them. did kids play with dads car.? oops.
this year car like most that year, up have thing called BCM
the body brain I CALL, AND RUNS ALL LAMPS .
I WILL NOw RTM READ THE SERVICE MANUAL FOR YOU.
SO THE 4 SHOPS LOST THERE SCAN TOOL, that? ?????????
all fuses good, and scans show not one DTC error, i bet not.

let me begin at TURNS dead rear.(which one bad front NOT TOLD)
wow.
no hacked up added trailer hitch jack on car right, we look for that
after all fuses tested good (as in ALL)
do hazards work on all 4 corners, now that is so important on any car as huge clue #1
the T/sig fuse (ip box) is not blow due to front lamp 1 does flash.
the HAZARD fuse must be good or all 4 corners are dead.
now the turns. , the turn switch sends left to front and rear on 1 wire.
same with right.



see how front and rear use the same wire feed
so if rear fails you have bad (wrong lamps) or wiring bad.
for sure.
i bet hazards fail the same way. for the same reasons.



dash illuminations side is cluster fuse blown, in IP fuse box. dash
same box ROOM LP fuse
the dash brain, MICOM goes dead too, lacking both fuses good.

not told what is dead, why? skip the #1 evidence.
what if there is fuse for what is dead.
lost the user guide and google 1st hit is there.

https://www.manualslib.com/products/Suzuki-Drz-400-2007-5904324.html

page 198 (real) shows ID 16 as FUSE box, google found it in 1 second.
the arrow seems to point to tail end, under seat rear or left rear side cover, why not just follow the harness main to it. be so easy on any motor cycle.

its in the rear somewhere, look more carefully
says behind battery 15

Did you R/R the pump & relay for this no start condition? First ck ALL the fuses if OK you probably have an electrical short. Ck ground circuits too.

check fuses FIRST

this is easy, if you have a voltmeter. got one, from walfart for $10 bucks?
the rear defrost grid is dead.
so does it have 12vdc end to end, on those grid contracts.
Yes, then the grid is bad.
no,then the relay that feeds it is dead.
if the relay id dead then check the fuses, first, do this first any way
the Volt meter will not lie to you, it will show if power reaches
and outputs from the RELAY.
it will even show the switch is working.

my first test above, cuts the problem in half in under 2 minutes.
if unsure, ask.

its electric,
and all electr. check fuses first. (read operators guide in glove box) under fuses....
it can only be 3-4 things.
1: bad fuse. (dead car battery, car run?)
2: bad wires. (yes, connectors too)
3: bad motor
4: it's jammed, (near impossible on rear)

if you have a voltmeter, all this is easy. use it and find if you have 12v to the motor. end story.

i just looked up all this circuits to see if they have any thing in common, and the only thing they have in common is the battery, but you may have blown a few fuses, the power steering has an electric assist there is a in line fuse (ESP fuse 80amp ) under the hood next to the battery also there is a rear defrost fuse in the under hood fuse box but i think i would check all the wires going to the battery positive post i think one of the smaller wires may have broken off the positive battery cable end this were the under hood fuse box get power from and all this circuits start at this box, so that is were you should start your search.

let me know if there is any thing else i can do for you.

If you really plan on chasing this one down as a DIY project, you will need electrical diagrams from your car. You can find these and a whole lot of other information here:
Haynes Avalon service manual
Even if you don't care to do your own maintenance, you can get an idea of the potential cost of a repair by looking into the complexity of it before committing to a sky-high repair bill.
We have a Haynes in each of three vehicles and they have saved us time and money.

Battery?

ck your bat again. this time with someone holding the ignition to the start position. if you still have good voltage start looking for a bad bat cable.this could be a hot or ground and could be the bat side or the end that connects to the car

u can take a usb cable that not being used by any thing . save the end that plugs in to your computer . the end you would plug in to the device you can cut off and you need to use the red and black wires to jump start the battery so it will charge . on your battery you will see the - and + the black goes to the - and red to + can use electric tape to hold the exposed wire to it and plug the other end in to your computer for about a 5 to 10 mins and then put it in your phone and turn it on and charge it .if didnt work you might have to leave it hocked up to the usb cord on the battery longer what i did to mine and it turns on and works fine now had the same problem battery got to low and dead . so phone was froze and wouldnt start