I have a problem with my Kymco People 150. When riding on a long road with consistant speed, the bike loses revs and slows don until I pull over and let it idle for a few secs. I then start off again, but it does the same thing again further on down the stretch of road. What could be causing this?

Question edited for clarity, name of the maker Kimco > Kymco.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks to correct category.

It is a model from 2012. Are you sure you have the 150cc and not the 50cc? They are restricted to 50mph.

You said "55 mph going down a hill with the wind at our back". Were you riding with a passenger, or it "our", you are the scooter? A 150 wouldn't do well with a passenger, and you would have to take into consideration your combined weight.

This is the specs, but take into account the Chinese are short, petite, lightweight people.

How fast does a KYMCO 150 go?
between 60 and 70 MPH Kymco's U.S. distributor told me that the 150's top speed is between 60 and 70 MPH and that the 250's top speed is between 70 and 80 MPH.

Kymco PEOPLE 150 Reviews on Cycle Insider

Here are some specs and reviews, but basically, if you want speed, you need a 250, scooters in general are not very aerodynamic! Of get a Honda Fireblade and do One HUNDRED and Sixty Five!

https://www.google.com/search?q=2021+kymco+super+8+150x+top+speed

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when you go for the 600 mile check up, tell the dealer the crackling noise is expanding and contracting of new exhaust , and change the oil dino oil for the first 1500 miles, then you can change to full syn., and change the oil hot after a good ride

Oil change intervals for motorcycles depend a great deal on your riding conditions and riding style. For lower-revving street bikes, I often change my oil about every 2000 miles (~3200 km). However, someone with a sport bike who regularly revs their engine closer to the redline, I would suggest a more frequent change interval. Off-road / dirt bikes should have their oil changed sooner because of the dusty conditions. The oil is still full of lubricants, but it is contaminated with dust and dirt that clogs the filter and eventually goes right into the engine, increasing wear. I can't offer much guidance for dirt bike oil change intervals.

Maybe this will help. This is a common problem that I have had with my GV250. Almost the same bike mechanically by Hyosung.

If the battery is low on charge and you are lucky enough for the bike to start. As per normal when first started it revs higher because the bike is cold, this turns the alternator fast to give you the electricity you need to keep the bikes computer working properly. Bike will warm up and revs drop down, alternater not turning as fast, not as much electricity being made. Bike will either stall or rev up and down irradically to try to produce its own electricity. This will occur when the battery charge is low and bike is at low revs, for example when you slow down for traffic or you stop.

If this is your problem. To resolve it when you are out on the road, keep the revs up, twisting your throttle gently when you are going slow or stopped. Give the bike a good long run on the open road to give the battery some charge from the alternator.

Make sure your battery is maintained. If you dont use your bike for a while it will lose charge just sitting there doing nothing. Give the battery a good deep cycle charge or take the bike for a good long open road ride.

Hello
A new clucth will slip a little at first. Its recommended to try to make the clucthes slip.
i just put in a set that instructed me to make the clutches slip.
A brand new set of clutches needs to seat and it will take a few times riding it before it does.

If they continue to slips after a few rides then you should have your master cylinder bled.
If the clutches are not engaging all the way, the clucthes will slip and motor revs but bike dont move.
if the clucthes are not disengaging all the way, the clutches drag, and the bike will edge forward because the clucthes are not disengaing from the motor.

Thats a pretty simple set up, hydraulic just needs to be bled all the way in the same manner you bleed a brake caliper.
once bled there is no adjustment and the clutches should disengage and engage within the first 1/2 inch of pulling in the lever.

Hope that helps, and don't worry about your new clucthes, they will slipp a little but will go away.
i'm sure of it.
Best Regards
Big Al

This is typical. Whether you use the "enricher circuit" on a carburetor or the electronic injection system senses your engine is cold, your engine is being started with an extremely over rich mixture. Once the engine warms up and you either disengage the enricher or the engine temperature sensor senses the engine is warm, the mixture leans out. Still the idle mixture is overly rich but when running down the road, it should lean out to about a 13.5:1 mixture.

Try this, install a new set of plugs in your engine. Start the engine and ride a normal pace of about 50-60 mph for about ten miles. Then, pull in the clutch and hit the "Run/Stop" switch killing the engine instantly. Do not let it idle. Carefully pull off the road downshifting the transmission as you slow down. Do not downshift the transmission too quickly, Wait until the bike slows down to the proper speed before you shift. Once you've got the bike stopped, pull the plugs out of the engine and look at them. They should be a brown color indicating the proper mixture.

Good Luck
Steve

Hi ice_basher

You need to check the following

1) . The carborator & air filter are proper or not.
2). The race & pickup is adjusted or not.
3). Ask your mechanic to chk the power output in bhp. Match it with the pescribed one.
4). The accelerator & clutch are properly working or not.

Your problem can be because of any of these. Please do a through check.

Buy a good floor pump with a gauge (see "How to Buy a Bike Pump," under Related eHows). A small, frame-mounted pump is useful only for roadside repairs.

Understand that it's normal for most tires to lose up to 10 pounds per square inch (psi) per week. This does not mean you have a slow leak.

Look on the tire's sidewall for tire pressure recommendations. Don't exceed the maximum tire pressure listed.

Inflate your mountain bike's tires to 40 psi for dirt riding. You may wish to inflate your tires to 50 to 60 psi for city riding.


Inflate your road bike's tires to 100 psi for road riding. Some road tires have much higher psi ratings. However, 100 psi will provide a good mix of performance and comfort.


Inflate your hybrid bike's tires to 60 to 70 psi for city riding.

Check your tire pressure before every ride

two stroke enduro bikes are not made for road use, despite the vibrations the bike itself doesn't handle good , the power delivery is pretty much on/off style not smooth at all plus no oil for lubrication and high revs. If you want to use it to connet the trails can be ok but any consistent road used will blow up the engine and the transmission definitely not the right bike for road.
that's my modest opinion bye

The float level in your carb probably needs to be adjusted. If the gasoline level in your float bowl is borderline low, your bike may run fine when level. But on the incline, the gas level at the jet may be too low causing your engine to be starving for gas. The solution is to remove the bowl and bend the tab on the float that pushes the valve up so that the gas won't shut off until the level is higher. If you are a good mechanic, you may try this yourself. If not, take it to someone who can do this for you.