My rm can select gear but will not go is that the clutch plates?

well a description of the problem would be a big help
does the gear crash when the clutch is pressed in
can the gears be engaged cleanly when the engine is stopped
did you install a single plate clutch or duel plate clutch
if the gears worked properly before removing the box , then the problem will be in the clutch plate fitting ( wrong way round and the hub is hitting on the flywheel bolts or duel plate on clutch bub is incorrect hitting on the other clutch hub)or the gear shifter installation after fitting the box

Hi, it sounds like your clutch friction plates have either worn out or, someone has put the wrong oil in it, some car oils make the clutch slip in high gears.

It's an internal transmission problem. A bent or worn gear shifting fork, or the gear dogs are battered. On the other hand it could be worn clutch teeth sliding, a worn clutch cable or the plates are sticky. Check the clutch plates and adjustments on linkage.

Hi, you might find the nut holding the clutch basket onto the shaft has come loose, so instead of pulling the clutch plates apart you are just pulling the clutch basket along the shaft.
or if the bike has sat for a while you might find the clutch plates have stuck together, this isn't that rare, you can start the bike and roll it along at about 1st gear speed, then click it into gear, then pull the clutch in and rev the engine, this should make the plates loose again. hope this helps, please rate, thanks, good luck

assuming the cable is fine and you have pressure at the lever.sometimes the plates can stick together when it sits for a while. put it in top gear 6th, put the front wheel against a wall, hold the clutch in and put some weight on the kick start. or push start it and hold the clutch in and vary the throttle to try and free the clutch

Without clutch plates installed. The clutch basket inner is directly connected to the tranny input shaft- if you turn the inner clutch basket while in gear it should drive the rear wheel. The outer basket should spin freely regardless of gear selection and have no affect on the tranny.
The input shaft of the tranny itself ( the shaft the clutch basket slides on) should not free wheel when in gear.

I have the same bike doing the same thing, I think this problem is caused by running regular or synthetic motor oils intended for cars rather than using motorcycle specific 10- 40wt. Motorcycle specific oils have friction properties that support long life of the friction plates in your clutch, regular motor oils can cause your friction plates to heat up and glaze over. I think That's what gives you that grabby all or nothing feel when taking off from a stop.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Look at the clutch diagram on the Babbit's site. Chances are that the "E" ring #14 was not put on the clutch rack #13 that the pinion shaft #16 engages to pull the pressure plate #8 outward, disengaging the clutch. Without the E-ring the rack can fall inside the clutch and is unable to pull the clutch plates apart. This is likely to be where the problem is. By the way, look at the sequence all the parts are to be installed in. Does your clutch assembly match that sequence? Let me know what you find.

I don't get paid for my answers. I am only trying to help. I do take pride in them. So if you will, > > > > A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks

I am going to stick my neck out here and hope I can help.
The springs are not at all likely to be the problem. Any chance the cable is hanging up and not releasing fully? Disconnect the cable at the gearbox, put the bike in gear with the motor not running and see if the motor puts a major drag on pushing the bike. If pushing the bike makes the wheel lock up or the engine turn over it tends to say the cable is bad.

It could be you were given the wrong hub. Compare the old hub to the new one. Do the various measurements match? Contact the dealers parts department and ask how many fiber and how many steel clutch plates are in your clutch. Did your 9 year old son play with a funny looking frisbie and leave it in the back yard?
Ask what plate goes into the clutch hub first > Fiber or steel? Did you install the plates that way? Did the outer clutch cap go on properly and rest against the outer plate? Do any of the fiber disks have a gap wider than the other disks?

Food for thought. I hope this helps.
Please rate this answer. Thanks!

1) Can you push the bike while it's in gear with the clutch pulled in? [If so, clutch is disengaging OK]

2) If not, check when you pull in the clutch lever that it pulls all the way through to the actual clutch [If not, replace broken clutch cable]

3) If so, clutch is binding. Either fix it properly by stripping the clutch.. or just brute-force the plates apart. :-)

Brute-force clutch plate separation: First make sure you have enough oil in the engine (wet clutch), then basically you're looking at either riding it with the clutch lever pulled in until the plates come apart or with the rear wheel in the air CAREFULLY running it in first gear against the rear brake while the clutch is pulled in.