Forks lose need ajustment and hydraulics cilinders

Leaking valve on return line for tilt cylinder, or dirt.debris is keeping the sequencer valve open. The cylinder should be flushed to dislodge any nore. If the cylinder is showing an external leak, it was overloaded at the fork tips, and a seal or the stack ruptured. The valve and lines should also be flushed.

first thing have some one push the brake for you. every time thay push. look very close at each tire to see if you see brake fluid then look from passenger side looking at the driver side frame if you find no leaks any ware all ales its the master cylinder

u most likely have a worn clutch or air in the system from a hydraulic leak this has no adjustment .

There can be many reasons , so you will need to check down the list until the problem is solved.

Worn tyres
incorrect tyre pressure
buckled wheels
worn wheel bearings
worn\loose steering head bearings
loose axle nut
worn swing arm bearings
bent disc rotors
front suspension damping too soft,
loose handle bars
bent forks or frame

that sounds just like a leaky none return velve in the master cylinder or very low on brake fluid it may even have got air in the system also if you removed the rear drums and never ajusted up the brake shoes this could give you this problem check the rear brums first the brake shoes should just be tuching the drums if there not pull off the drums and wind up the ajusters then refit the drum till the drake shoes are only just clearing the drum i know they have self ajusting shoes but half the time they just dont work very well so ajust it by hand,, the front brake are disk's and they are self ajusting,,,
after doing this work leave the car for a minue or so and stamp on the brake to pump them out if you then need to pump the brakes up again that shoes its just ajusted the rear drums,,,the brake pedel should only ever need to be prest once never pumped up,, if this dont help you out and sort out the problem then and only then replace the master cylinder as there normaly very strong and dont brake down often and they often leak brake fluid first,,,my bet is its the rear shoes needing ajusting up

Ideally, even if the clutch is worn, the vehicle should still shift as the hydraulic clutch system is designed to be self adjusting to compensate for wear. That leaves just the Clutch Master Cylinder and the Clutch Slave Cylinder.

First thing, check & restore fluid level to full if it is low.

You might just try to quickly pump the clutch a few times and then try going into reverse with the engine running, if it does, then you're going to need to check the entire hydraulic clutch system for leaks, repair any & then bleed the system to get it to work properly. The Clutch Master Cyl. can leak back through the firewall in the drivers compartment near the pedals and indicates seal damage within the Clutch Master cyl. itself.

If you still can't shift even with pumping the clutch it could still be the hydraulic system, it's just time to perform another test:

If the shifter goes easily from gear to gear and into reverse with no problem when the engine is off and sitting still, that confirms that the trans shift components should be in good shape. If you notice it binds, then there could be some internal damage to the forks or other parts.

Back to the hydraulic system, If you find it is the Clutch Master cylinder, it has to be bled itself before attempting to bleed the rest of the system once repairs are made. Once replaced, just keep the connection to the hose loose a small amount while someone presses the clutch, then tighten before they remove the pressure from the pedal. It may be necessary to pull the clutch pedal up by hand and operate it by hand a few times until you build pressure on the system to cause it to stay in the rest position. That will remove air from that part.

If it's the slave cylinder or just a line leaking, you can just bleed the system from the slave cyliinder.

good luck

wrench or hand turn rear mono shock. Extend the shock for more resistance. Are the front forks air or gas? If they are not pushing down then the rebound is problem bottomed out , air valve on top of forks

the european ford escort '80-'86 had similar problems with that. problem is the hydraulic lifter cilinder burned engine oil settle inside those cilinders you have to remove the Camshaft you will find them and press them in with a little force and keep it overnight in a bucked of diesel to clean them up .blowdry them and put them back in the engine. check on damages while they are dry. they have to move when you aply pressure with your hands
WARNING when you start the engine because these cilinders are empty.your engine will make a hell of a noise .DON't be ALARMED this will go away in 1 or 2 minutes success

Your dealer will have one or try a Chiltons manual. There is no inspection checklist per say. What is the problem with your front end? Take the bike up to 50mph, take your hands off the bars and give one side of the handle bars a quick tap, if your front end (neck bearing) is loose you will experience a wobble which depending on the severity will increase meaning you have to tighten the big nut on the frame neck. The service manual will show you the proper way to perform the fall away test which will help you get the front end adjusted properly. If you just want to change the fork oil thats easy, just put a jack under the front end to lift the front tire clear of the ground then release the drain plugs (be careful not to strip them) and let all the fluid drain out. lower the jack and compress the forks to remove all remaining fluid. Lift the front end up again Then reinstall the drain plugs, remove the big bolts from the top of each fork and pour in the required amount of hydraulic fluid to each fork and replace the caps. These front ends are pretty simple and almost maintenance free. If it looks like you have a hydraulic leak coming from the top of the sliders just double check that its not excess grease from the neck bearings leaking down onto the top of the sliders (the bottom part of your forks where the tubes move up and down into. Many bikes come into our shop with possible front end leaks that are neck grease which especially on days will work its way down your forks making it look like the front end is leaking. Buy a factory HD manual which shows you step by step the procedure for taking the forks apart for seal replacement, fall away tests etc.

The Piston seal on the cylinder may need replacing! Otherwise the valve has an eccessive leak rate. The leak rate is normal due to spool clearances although the cylinder shouldnt go down that soon. You may want to check the lift cylinder. As far as negative effects they are minimal other than danger to surrounding things under the forks.