Shaft coming out of transmission that clutch basket slide upon..it this suppose to free wheel while transmission is in gear...please help this is on a big dog k-9 motorcycle..6 speed baker transmission

A noise in neutral that goes when the clutch is disengaged indicates a front input shaft bearing in the gear box . When the clutch is out that shaft is spinning along with the cluster shaft in the gear box. When the clutch is in that shaft stops (to engage first gear) and the bearing is no longer working.. It normally means a box out job.

The throw out bearing will be on the outside of the clutch assemble. What it does is push against the fingers in the center of the pressure plate.

Hi, you might find the nut holding the clutch basket onto the shaft has come loose, so instead of pulling the clutch plates apart you are just pulling the clutch basket along the shaft.
or if the bike has sat for a while you might find the clutch plates have stuck together, this isn't that rare, you can start the bike and roll it along at about 1st gear speed, then click it into gear, then pull the clutch in and rev the engine, this should make the plates loose again. hope this helps, please rate, thanks, good luck

If this is a manual transmission, check the clutch free play which should not be much more than about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. If ok, then you may need to replace the third gear synchromesh mechanism within the transmission. This entails a tear down of the transmission, so it would not be classified as an easy fix. Hope this helps!

Unfortunately, you can get noise from the transmission, clutch basket, drive shaft, pinion gears or rear wheel on the Royal Star. No way to tell which you have so:

Barring a failure of the clutch basket, a change to a multi-grade synthetic oil THAT DOES NOT HAVE AN ENERGY-CONSERVING SEAL ON THE BOTTLE will quiet gear and clutch noise. Energy-conserving oils tend to make a wet clutch slip. Try Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic, available at Walmart for about $19.00 a gallon, I've got 111,000 on a Tour Deluxe with it, and it just keeps going...

The drive shaft on the Royal Star can also make noise if both ends are not properly lubricated; tourers have found that Honda Moly 60 paste on both ends at about 15,000 mile intervals will eliminate that aggravation.

Hypoid gears in the final drive can also be noisy. Short of having the drive disassembled and replacement shims installed, changing to a good synthetic 75W-140 lubricant will quiet or eliminate the whine.

Splines and pins in the final drive and rear wheel assembly can also cause noise. Remove the rear wheel, put a thin layer of Honda Moly 60 paste on the pins, dampers and in the drive spline, ditto with the mating spline on the final drive. I relubricate all of these every time I change rear tires, probably more often than necessary, but it's convenient to do when the wheel is off.

Im assuming the car isnt moving!! This may be the half shaft (shaft that connects engine/trans to your wheel axle) possibly disconnected/popped out. Have the shaft inspected for worn CV joints/bearings and engine/transmission mounts are intact. hopefully this helps!!

Unfortunately, you can get noise from the transmission, clutch basket, drive shaft, pinion gears or rear wheel on the Royal Star. No way to tell which you have so:

Barring a failure of the clutch basket, a change to a multi-grade synthetic oil THAT DOES NOT HAVE AN ENERGY-CONSERVING SEAL ON THE BOTTLE will quiet gear and clutch noise. Energy-conserving oils tend to make a wet clutch slip. Try Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic, available at Walmart for about $19.00 a gallon, I've got 111,000 on a Tour Deluxe with it, and it just keeps going...

The drive shaft on the Royal Star can also make noise if both ends are not properly lubricated; tourers have found that Honda Moly 60 paste on both ends at about 15,000 mile intervals will eliminate that aggravation.

Hypoid gears in the final drive can also be noisy. Short of having the drive disassembled and replacement shims installed, changing to a good synthetic 75W-140 lubricant will quiet or eliminate the whine.

Splines and pins in the final drive and rear wheel assembly can also cause noise. Remove the rear wheel, put a thin layer of Honda Moly 60 paste on the pins, dampers and in the drive spline, ditto with the mating spline on the final drive. I relubricate all of these every time I change rear tires, probably more often than necessary, but it's convenient to do when the wheel is off.

Its the clutch if you can select gear with the engine running without pressing the clutch then its the clutch itself.

TRANSMISSION FLUIDS CAN BE CAUSED BY ONLY A COUPLE OF THINGS. MOST COMMON BEING A WORN OR BROKEN SEAL. THE TRANSMISSION SEALS ON MOST CARS ARE MADE FROM RUBBER OR METAL. BEING IN ALL KIND OF EXTREME TEMPS FOR YEARS ON END NOT TO MENTION THE PARTS MOVING AROUND THEM WILL EVENTUALLY CAUSE LEAKS. ALSO FAULTY INSTALLATION (OF A SEAL) CAN ALSO CAUSE A LEAK TO HAPPEN. THE ONLY OTHER THING THAT CAN CAUSE A LEAK TO MY KNOWLEGE WOULD BE IF YOU BOTTOMED OUT A CAR LOW ENOUGH THAT IT CAUSES DAMAGE TO THE TRANS CASE OR PAN. One cause of grinding when shifting into reverse is improper adjustment of the clutch linkage. If the adjustment is correct when the clutch is depressed the gears should stop turning and eliminate the grinding. Make sure there is some free play in the linkage when the clutch is not depressed. Most manual transmissions do not have a sychronized reverse gear. When you try to go into reverse from neutral, the transmission countershaft (which is linked to the pilot shaft) is still turning. The main shaft (which is linked to the tailshaft) is not turning. Therefore, since there is no sychronizer (or clutch brake like on a heavy truck tranny) the sliding cluctch gear (splined to the main shaft) grinds against the main shaft gear (floating over the main shaft but meshing its respecive countershaft gear through the reverse idler). The slider's function is to lock the main shaft gear to the main shaft thereby transmitting power to the rear wheels in the desired gear ratio (depending on which main shaft gear is locked to the main shaft). The way to cure this is to select a forward gear to stop the transmission and then go to reverse, all the while holding the clutch down. If it still won't go into gear you can either slip the clutch ever so slightly to "bump" the gears while gently pushing the stick into reverse (not too hard!! you can bend or break forks!! OUCH!!) or go into neutral, let the clutch all the way out, go into a forward gear and then reverse.

If your rear wheel is locked up in first and second gear with the engine running, this is not a good sign. Have you ever ran the bike without oil in the transmission? Every time I've seen this, the chain was thrown off the bike and it busted the cases. The oil leaked out of the cases and the transmission locks up. Generally, it locks in fifth gear but it could lock up in any or no gear.

Your problem sounds like something is wrong with the low gear-second gear "clutch gear". The clutch gear is gear that slides sideways on one of the transmission shafts to engage the proper gears. If the bike will roll when in neutral, these may be the only gears affected. If the bike will not roll when in neutral, your problem may be in countershaft. Either way, the transmission could be damaged.

Now, if you're talking about the rear wheel locking up if you try to push start the bike, this is because in low and second gear, there isn't enough mechanical advantage in the transmission to overcome the engine compression. Remember, you transferring torque through the transmission backwards when you try to push start the bike. Try starting the bike using third or fourth gear instead. Standing on the pegs and dropping onto the seat when you release the clutch helps.