My bike has been layed up for 6months the forks are pitted do they n eed replaceing. it needs some tender care.and elboe grease.

Hello Cecil,

1. Front Brake Cable - Extended for aftermarket tall bar and fork kits. Overall Length 40.25inches or 1022.35mm. Jacket measures 35.25inches or 895.35mm.
   
   Try that for sizing on your Z50 Pit Bike.
   Hope that helps you out.

Repainting via rattle-can is a bad idea - looks poor and will not hold up. As for forks, just google "overhaul threadless headset."

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

Well - seeing as how we have absolutely NO INFO on what bike you are working on, I would strongly suggest you visit a local motorcycle salvage yard. Almost any major city has at least one, but if not look into the nearest one - they will ship to you. I have had to buy blind when working on older bikes and have had good success.

The top center nut turns counter clockwise for stem removal. Either the nut is too lose and is letting the stem to wobble on the bearing or the bearing is shot and needs to be replaced. The forks will probably need to be removed if you need to actually remove the steering stem. Please rate my answer.

If the actual stainless rods are pitted then the shocks will probably leak. If its the outer part where the axle goes through then all is OK.

check first to see if the leaking fork has any rust pitting on the chrome,if it has and its a very small blemish then fettle it off first,and just replace the leaking seal,as the saying goes..if it aint broke dont fix it,if the seals had been in the forks for years and the bike not used then consider replacing both..

Your dealer will have one or try a Chiltons manual. There is no inspection checklist per say. What is the problem with your front end? Take the bike up to 50mph, take your hands off the bars and give one side of the handle bars a quick tap, if your front end (neck bearing) is loose you will experience a wobble which depending on the severity will increase meaning you have to tighten the big nut on the frame neck. The service manual will show you the proper way to perform the fall away test which will help you get the front end adjusted properly. If you just want to change the fork oil thats easy, just put a jack under the front end to lift the front tire clear of the ground then release the drain plugs (be careful not to strip them) and let all the fluid drain out. lower the jack and compress the forks to remove all remaining fluid. Lift the front end up again Then reinstall the drain plugs, remove the big bolts from the top of each fork and pour in the required amount of hydraulic fluid to each fork and replace the caps. These front ends are pretty simple and almost maintenance free. If it looks like you have a hydraulic leak coming from the top of the sliders just double check that its not excess grease from the neck bearings leaking down onto the top of the sliders (the bottom part of your forks where the tubes move up and down into. Many bikes come into our shop with possible front end leaks that are neck grease which especially on days will work its way down your forks making it look like the front end is leaking. Buy a factory HD manual which shows you step by step the procedure for taking the forks apart for seal replacement, fall away tests etc.

The air is on top of the oil. You still have to change to fork oil (and dust) seals. Not hard, messy. Use your digital camera as a guide to help you re-assemble the unit. Do one at a time. Support the motorcycle securlely.

Replacing this elbow is one of the easiest jobs on any Karcher pressure washer. To gain access you will need a special screwdriver, variously known as a Star or Torx screwdriver (size T15), to undo the eight screws that hold the front to the back (three down each side and two at the bottom). You will also need to remove the handle (easy) and the black piece on the side that holds the gun when not in use (not so easy, but get a flashlight and look up at this piece from underneath, deep inside you will see a tab that must be released using a flat blade screwdriver).
When you get inside, you will see the remains of your broken elbow. It's fixed to the pump by a metal fork that you can lever out to the left, then pull the broken bit off. Look out for the O-ring, which may come off with that bit or may remain up inside the pump outlet. You will need the O-ring to fit on your new elbow (grease it well with a silicone based grease before fitting). Push the new elbow all the way on to the pump and secure it with the metal fork. Be sure to push the fork all the way home or it may work loose during use.
It's a good idea to test the unit before putting the front back on, to ensure there are no leaks. BE VERY CAREFUL TO KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR OF THE FAN BLADES ON TOP OF THE MOTOR WHEN YOU DO THIS. 
Re fitting the front is just the reverse of removing it.
I hope this helps. Any questions, just post here again and I'll do what I can to help.
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