I need the head ang cilinder torque specs for a

check your plug is the correct spec it should be an NGK BR8EG or compatible.

Remove the carburator to gain access. Unbolt the reed block from the back (rear) of the cylinder. You can replce the reed block assembly, or if you just got the reed pedals, they attatch with small screws. Use blue loc-tite #242 on the reed pedal screws so they don't loosen up. You will need to replace the gasket (s) with new ones and torque the cage bolts to spec. (Pay close attention when you remove it, so you know how it is re-assembled.)

The nearest I could come to your engine was for a 1979 Opel 4, torque was 72ft.lb.

what do you need to know? head barral is 38nm and cam carriers are 10nm most 6mm nuts and bolts are 10nm. hope this helps.

9 5 1 3 7 10 6 2 4 8 This is the head bolt sequence which should be torqued to 130-140 ft-lbs

Note: the numbers are represenative of the bolt location.

Mike...

also i forgot to add pul the gasket and head in evenly

The 8mm head bolts are torqued at 19 - 21 ft/lbs.
any smaller 6mm bolts are torqued to only 6 ft/lbs
like those on the lower cylinder.

my carb was doing the same thing and i just took it off, took it apart cleaned it out with the air nozle on our compresser and a butter knife to cean out the stuff on the bottom of the bowl, reset the float and it was all good.

DOES IT STOP RUNNING BECAUSE OF A FOULED PLUG WHAT RATIO FUEL/OIL ARE YOU RUNNING
40:1 IS A GOOD RATIO NEVER HAD A FAILURE IN 20 YEARS