I need a price for Front forks

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Here is the procedure:-

1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.



2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.



3. Remove oil pump and strainer.

TIMING GEAR COVER

1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.



2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS

1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
   

Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.

1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.



2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.



3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.



4. Remove injection pump drive gear.



5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.

CAMSHAFT

1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.



2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.

PISTON & CONNECTING ROD

1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.



2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.



3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.

CRANKSHAFT

1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.



2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.



3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.

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Where you inserted the handle bars into the bearing assembly on the frame there is a fork clamp you had to tighten to secure the handle bars and front fork. Loosen this and you should be able to disassemble the front end. While reassembling be sure the you line up the notches on the fork with the grooves in the bearing assembly and that the handle bars are properly aligned before tightening the fork clamp.

I was looking in the service information for G.M.and they do not say anything about using a power bleeder.They just manually bleed the system.Maybe this is what you need to try.I am a G.M. technician and I never remember using a power bleeder when replacing and bleeding a slave cylinder.The bleeding is not the same as bleeding a brake system.I also remember being able to get the complete the complete master cylinder and slave as an assembly and it was already bleed.All you had to do was install it.I`m not sure if it is still available as a complete assembly.But I believe your right in saying there is still air in the system.Hope this helps.Let me know what you find out.Good luck.

Take the front wheel off , clean out the mud, free all the frozen parts and grease the brake cam shaft going through the brake panel housing. Replace the front brake cable and you should be good to ride. Hint: If the front brake drum is full of mud you need to remove the rear wheel to clean out the mud and grease the brake cam shaft there also.

Unbolt the caliper from the front fork.Loosen brake fluid reservoir cap on throttle side of handle bar. Remove the outboard pad ( pad on outside of caliper) and use a 6 inch C clamp to depress piston back into caliper housing. Make sure the clamp presses on the old pad and not directly on the piston end as you might press the piston sideways and scar up the cylinder wall, ruining the caliper. Compress piston until it is flush on the inside case of the caliper. Let sit 5 minutes for the pressure to leak down to keep the piston in place. Remove clamp and inboard pad and replace pads. Remount caliper, tighten bolts and pull the brake lever 5 or 6 times. Check brake fluid level with handlebars straight and top off if necessary.
Hope this helps!!

Sounds like you have a short. The headlight and the tail light are on the same fuse as well as a few other lights. I'd look closely right where the main harness goes from the frame to the front end. There is a lot of flexing and movement in the wiring harness in that area. Look for wires that could have been rubbed by the fairing.

Good Luck
steve

the bars go throuhg the hole down into the front wheel. on the bar where the the neck goes into the frame there is a hole in that a long bolt goes in that, then the wedge shape nut goes on the long that runs down the neck into the frame that the front is in. make sure that the wedge bolt will line up with wedge on bar. place through frame into wheel so the neck bottem out get your ratach and start cranking as it get tight line up neck w/ tire and lock it down pull up to check turn head just in case

YAMAHA ROYAL STAR Engine Type: 1294cc liquid cooled 70 degree DOHC V-four, four valves per cylinder
Bore and Stroke: 79 x 66mm
Compression Ratio: 10.1:1
Carburetor: 4 x 28mm Mikuni CV
Transmission: 5-speed
Wheelbase: 66.7 in.
Dry Weight: 701 lbs.
Tires: Front; 150/80V16 Rear; 150/90V15
Forks: 43mm Kayaba
Rear Suspension: Kayaba mono-shock with adjustable preload
Brakes: 298mm dual front discs with dual-piston calipers; 320mm rear disc with dual-piston calipers
Seat Height: 28.3 in.
Fuel Capacity: 4.8 gallons

you should be able to saporrt bike so front wheel is off the ground   then take a marker and put lines around where the forks meet the triple trees that hold them in place their should be some allen head bolts that u can loosen on front of the triple clamps  once these are loose you should be able  to move the forks back to strait again in line with the handle bars just line the lines up that u put on them earlier and tighten the allen bolts back up    also  when making the lines  make them from left  to right so marker is touching both fork tube and triple clamp   this is only so you get can keep them the same ride hight as before