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I too have no spark. ive replaced the spark plugs, Cdi box, spark plug wires are good, coil packs have been tested at a kawa dealership. I tested the pickup coil and it came back 465 ohms. I had someone else look at it and they said the magneto was the problem. Never seen anything in my book about a magneto. the bikes turns over perfectly, is getting gas, just no spark. ive done the spark plug test and no spark. I only did the test on cylinder 1 because the firing order is 1-2-4-3. ANy suggestions because i dont want to order a pickup coil and pulsing rotor if that is not the problem. thanks been out of commission riding for 2 months now. i live in maryland and fall is creeping up fast.
Hi buddy to check the magneto just find the wires from the magneto and test them out with a volt metre if you have nothing there must be the stator plate gone get back to me buddy
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I have 2002 road star midnight. I lost completely spark on all 4 spark plugs. Before bike was running OK but sometimes on low RPM while idling would skip a firing on a at least one cylinder making spufff like sound. I put new spark plugs, and wiggled a little coil wires. Bike with new spurk plugs would not fire up at all. Checked for spark on all 4 spark plugs - no spark., not even an electrical I lost completely spark on all 4 spark plugs. Before bike was running OK but sometimes on low RPM while idling would skip a firing on a at least one cylinder making spufff like sound. I put new spark plugs, and wiggled a little coil wires. Bike with new spark plugs would not fire up at all. Checked for spark on all 4 spark plugs - no spark., not even an electrical charge going to spark plug. Went back to coils. Each coil (there 2 of them) has 2 spark plug wires and 2 ignition timing signal wires connected to them. I realized that these ignition timing wires contacts are corroded to the point they would not conduct a charge from the distributor to coil. CLEAN ALL THE TIMING WIRES Contacts on the coils. I did that and bike fired up right away and started running much better without sputtering or skipping a cylinder firing. SO DISCONNECT ALL THE COIL WIRES AND BRUSH THE CONTACTS WITH A SMALL METAL WIRE BRUSH.
you will have to check lead to spark plug then lead to coil
if your not getting spark at plug it could be a number of things ingintion
or just a loose wire best of luck hope you solve it
Start with new plug ., then work your way to stator ., so plug., plug wire ,.coil.,, cdi ., stator.,., easy to test all them and chase your faulty part
Had similar problem with a 125cc scooter I worked on. First crank of the engine showed spark on first compression and wouldn't spark anymore until you would wait 10-15 minutes. Then it would give only one spark again.
Found it to be a faulty CDI box.
You can't test or repair a CDI box, only replace it. Electrical parts that are purchased, cannot be returned so, you need to be sure it's not the pickup coil, pulse coil,secondary coil, plug wire, plug cap and spark plug itself before you purchase a box. By checking the specific resistances with a ohm meter on the previous mentioned components, will help determine if it's the box or not. Hope this helps!
If you are able to use a digital volt meter and work your backwards from spark plug wire to coil to cdi to stator you can figure out where voltage stops.thats a fairly newer bike unless you really submerged that bike under water i dont think its the cdi box.it could be coil wire it could be coil.you want to check or change the cheaper parts before you go right to cdi because there not cheap.I have a yamaha banshee 350 and she was breaking up real bad.I thought because it was only happining on top end that the cdi was breaking down or stator was going bad.Found out with meter it was the coil wires and spark plug boots.These items have to have a certain amount of resistance or the do not conduct correctly.And spark plug wires and boots are not that exspensive.So thats why I say start from sparkplug boot and work your way back.Try that and Good Luck.
The voltage on the green wire must be pulsating when cranking/starting the bike, not steady. Confirm by similarly testing the voltage on the black wire on the left ignition coil. If the green still reads a constant voltage, then the CDI is faulty; to be more specific, most likely that the switching tansistor inside the CDI that drives the right ignition coil has shorted.
If it ran before, I would double check your electrical connections. Its more likely you didn't get a connector pushed all the way together or left off a ground wire. The ignition coil specs are generally 1 ohm or less on the primary (small Wire) side, and 5K-10K ohms on the secondary (spark plug) side. Each side should be tested to ground. Pick-up coils are typically open or really large ohm reading in Megaohms normally and around 100 ohms when the magnet on the flywheel passes by. there is no way to test the CDI box other than putting it on a know running bike or getting a known good CDI and putting it on your bike. Double check that the spark plug cap is secured to the high tension lead as well. Testing the stator is a little more complicated, but a quick way is to close the gap on an old spark plug to about 0.010" and see if there is a week spark. If so, the stator will need to be replaced.
To my understanding, the problem is 'no spark' yet the engine cranks. Generally, to consider are:
pulser coil (least likely);
ignition coil (likely);
interlocks (likely);
CDI (most likely).
Offhand, the CDI would be the main suspect. Since the CDI is sealed, it is not possible to do component level checks. The only way to check if the CDI is good is to check the external connections; if they are good and yet no spark, then the CDI is bad.
How to check the above:
to check the pulser coil, measure the low voltage coming from it using an analog/needle type AC voltmeter. While cranking, it should show a flickering low voltage;
to check the ignition coil, use a continuity tester. Primary should measure 3 ~ 5 ohms while primary to the high voltage end would measure 15 ~ 18 kilo ohms;
the ignition coil has 1 terminal connected to the IGN +12 while the other terminal is connected to the CDI. This should have a pulsating voltage when cranking.
all the interlocks could be checked with a continuity tester. Please note that most interlocks has a diode connected in series with their wires.
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