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With a cal term 66430,what terminals do I plug into the meter and where do I set the dial to read about 120 volts ac?

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  • Motorcycles Master
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Hi, Janice you need to repost your question under the multimeter category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Posted on Nov 22, 2019

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6ya6ya

6ya staff

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: Conecting to 120 volts AC

If you want to get more precise, figure out everything in terms of power (watts).

Basic electrical rule 1, 2 and 3:

voltage x current = power

or re-arranged:

current = power divided by voltage

or re-arranged:

voltage = power divided by current


For example, 12V X 2 amps = 24 watts.

or another example, 400 watts divided by 120 Volts = 3.33 amps

A 55W headlight that uses 12V would draw 55 /12 = 4.6 amps @ 12V

A 55 watt light bulb in a lamp at home would draw 55 / 120 = 0.46 amps @ 120V


As the previous post mentioned, inverters are not perfect when convertering 12V into 120V. If the converter consumes 1000W from the 12V battery, then a 90% effecient converter would generate 900W of 120V AC power best case. The other 100W is lost primarily as heat.

The other thing that gets tricky is that these ratings and the formula above are used for resistive loads, like light bulbs or hair dryers. Anything with a motor or transformer is considered an inductive load and can get much more tricky to calculate.

Consequently you need to give your self a safety margin when figuring out how big an inverter you need.

How does work in a practical sense?

Lets say you want an inverter for TV, DVD and Sat. Receiver. Look at the back of TV or in the manual. It should say how many watts it consumes. Lets say it is 400W. The DVD might be 100W and the Sat. receiver 50W - just as an example.

400 + 100 + 50 = 550 Watts. (just as an example)

You might think, well no problem, I'll use a 600 Watt inverter and have 50 watts left over. Depending on your inverter, that 600W might really be 600 x 90% effecient = 540 Watts of AC, less a 20% margin of error for the inductive transformers in the electronic of the TV, DVD and Sat. receiver 540 - 20% = 432 Watts.

Now you can see your 600 Watt inverter isn't big enough to do the job.

If we really need 550 watts of AC, add 10% to make up the effiency loss, then add a safety margin for inductive loads.

550 + 10% = 605 + 20% = 726 Watts.

Sounds more like an 800W inverter fits the job.

What does that mean in terms of wiring the 12V batteries to the inverter?

from the formula above:

current = power divided by voltage

In our example, we have an 800W inverter that runs on 12V

The current would thererfore be:

current = power divided by voltage
current = 800 watts divided by 12V
current = 66 amps.

That is important info because you can not use light gauge wire to carry 66 amps worth of 12V to the inverter nor could you use a 20A fuse to protect your inverter.

Now that's a lot of science for a guy who just wants to run a toaster on an inverter right?

800W / 120V = 6.66 amps

Using garryp's ratio 11:1, 6.66 x 11 = 73 amps.

That is a good ratio with a good safety margin.

This is all just MHO and should not taken as solid technical advise. In other words, don't blame me if you blow yourself up.

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

Anonymous

  • 52 Answers

SOURCE: I need to replace the 120 volt AC wall adaptor

Here is your link to buy it.
http://www.centurytool.net/5140044_04_Charger_W_Small_Jack_p/5140044-04.htm

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Toshiba e Studio 120 meter reading

hold down the cancel button for 5 seconds

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

dmftrucker

daniel hendrickson

  • 1922 Answers

SOURCE: Dos not work in Volt meters. show 220v as ca 50 v.

your batteries are shot

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Nikon FA will not advance. Meter will not give reading.

Nikon Fa advance lever loose.

Not used camera for a few years and set to M250 mode due to not having batteries, Advanced lever once to test, advanced one, then pulled lever back for another test.

Lever then feels lifeless and has no resistance to being moved. it will not take a picture even with batteries. any Idea what the problem is?

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

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All lights are working belt is attached dunno why ifs not filling up or moving when I switch a wash program on but make a slight buzz as if it wants work


How to Check a Washer when Is Not Filling With Water OTHER washers test similiarly
# Test procedures to follow when a GE Hotpoint washer is not filling

* Disconnect the washer from the wall outlet
* Set the timer dial on regular and pull the knob to turn the timer push-pull switch on
* Set the temperature switch to the cold/cold setting
* Open the controls panel to gain access to the water mixing valve solenoids
* Touch the 2 terminals on the cold water solenoid with your volt meter test proves. Make sure that your body don't touch the washer cabinet, this eliminate the chance of getting an electrical shock.
* Have someone plug the washer cord for you while you check the voltage
* The reading should be 120 volts
* Disconnect the washer from the wall outlet
* Touch the 2 terminals on the hot water solenoid with your volt meter test proves. Remember, to keep your body from touching the washer cabinet to eliminate the chance of getting an electrical shock

#
2
Have your helper plug in the washer cord again so you could check the voltage at the hot water solenoid

* The reading should be 120 volts. If you get 120 volts, this tells you that the wall outlet, the timer, the water temperature switch cold and hot water settings are working ok.

#
3
If the GE Hotpoint washer is not filling, the problem should be on the water valve, the screen filters or the water supply
#
4
If one of the solenoids is bad you will need to replace the complete water mixing valve assembly YOU SHOULD ALSO GET AN OHMS READING OR SHOW CONTINUITY WHEN TESTED UNPLUGGED ON BOTH SELINOIDS HOT AND COLD




all-lights-working-belt-attached-dunno-fgv1ctnzjgewe3hu2qpqylbk-3-0.jpg

Mar 29, 2015 | Washing Machines

Tip

How to use a voltage or multi meter.


You can buy a reliable, two probe voltage meter at most building supply stores for around $30. They typically have two testing probes and a dial to select the function. The four major functions are AC voltage, (a V with a wiggly line), DC voltage (a V with a straight line), resistance or continuity (the symbol omega), and amps(A). To use the meter you decide what value you are testing for and estimate what range the result would be in. For example, testing a receptacle, you would use AC Volts on a 200 range, expecting a 120 volt reading. For continuity or resistance, select a mid range to start with. Hold one probe to each side of the circuit or item to be tested. If the reading is infinite then there is no internal connection between the parts tested. If the reading is zero then there is a connection or a short between the parts being tested. For example, if you put the probes on the terminal screws of a switch, one position would give you a zero reading, and flip the switch and you would get an infinite reading. For a light bulb an infinite reading means it is burned out, a zero or close to it reading means the lamp is good.
You would use the DC Voltage function to check circuits in your car, or to check batteries. The car is 12volts DC and a battery is 1.5 volts DC.

on May 10, 2010 | Hammering

1 Answer

Aquastat relay


It may be, the best way to check a line voltage thermostat like the aqua stat is take a multi-meter on AC volts (120), when the thermostat is or should be demanding heat put the meter across the screws, if you read more than 20-30 volts for certain the stat is worn out. A functioning aqua stat when checking across the terminals should read but a few volts whether the system is 120 or 24 volts, on low voltage it's even more critical to limit voltage drop through a set of contacts.

Oct 11, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Hi there. My Maytag MSE 760 FARS dishwasher is not filling, but the heating element is working. I suspect the pump has failed. What do I do?


Hello,
what you can check,

  1. the float in the tub.their may be something caught under it
  2. the water valve,use a meter set to check ac voltage and check for 120 volts ac at the plug to it,if has 120 when supposed to fill valve is bad so long at it has water supply to it
  3. the float switch,use meter set to lowest ohms setting and remove the 2 wires on float switch and check for continunity(zero ohms) if meter reads OL replace float switch
  4. the control,check for 120 volts ac to float switch when supposed to fill, if 120 at fill portion yet no fill ,replace control
  5. water supply,if uses flex tube something in cabinet under sink may have pinched water line
Good luck,i hope this helps

Gene

Aug 02, 2011 | Maytag Dishwashers

1 Answer

Dryer will not come on. Is there a restart button or is this something more serious?


Hodgekewanee, it's really hard to say at first. There are many possiblities. First of all, it depends on what type of dryer you have. Whether it's gas or electric, and so on.
It's always a good idea to start with the obvious. Are you getting power to the dryer?
At first you should check the breaker or fuse, whichever type you have. If you have an electric dryer, there will be 2 breakers at the service panel. Make sure that you turn it all of the way off, and then back on again, whether it looks like it's tripped or not. Still nothing...

Next, go to the dryer outlet. You're going to have to take a voltage reading at the outlet to make sure that you have the correct voltage.
Electric dryer should be 240 volts. But, if you 've never done this before, it's a little tricky. If your outlet is for a 4-prong plug. You're gonna have 4 places on the outlet of course.

wrightly_0.jpgThis here is a 4 prong outlet, maybe like you have. You're going to need a voltmeter to test the voltage. You can use a voltohm anolog style for around 15 dollars, and just in case you decide to do it, I'll post a link right now to show you how to use one. It's not difficult to do.
http://applianceassistant.com/safety/how_to_use_a_volt_meter.php
As you can see above, if you take a reading with the 2 rectangular slots, you should get around 240 volts. Now from one rectangle slot to either the neutral or the ground will show 120 volts. You should test all of the configurations above to see if everything is okay. If one one side or both you come up with hardly anything or nothing, and you're sure you've reset the breaker, then you have a problem with the breakers themselves or the wiring leading to the outlet.

Now if you have a 3 prong outlet. You will have probably an "L" shape slot, and two rectangle slots. You should take the reading between the 2 rectangular slots for around 240 volts. Then, do 1 rectangle slot to the "L" shape slot for around 120 volts. Do the same for the other rectangular slot, also for 120 volts.

If.......... you have a gas dryer, it only requires a 120 volt outlet. So you only have to set the meter to read AC volts at the next closest number range above 120. If the next highest number on the meter is 250, then you would set the meter to read 250 volts AC. You can get all of that information and more with the link above.


Now, if you havent found the problem, you need to take your attention to the back of the dryer, where you should see a small panel that you can take off. Just follow the power cord into the back of the dryer. Here you'll find the terminal block. there will be screws with wires attached to both sides. One set going into the dryer and the other from the power cord. Look for broken or burnt connections there. Here you can also test the voltage like this;

First look closely and find L1, N, L2 on the terminal block. L1 and L2 are from the rectangular slots on the dryer outlet. When you touch the meter leads to L1 and L2 you should get around 220-240 volts.
The middle terminal is the neutral, if you only have 3 wires on your dryer cord, then the middle terminal will have a strap connected to it, which is the ground. Test each side; L1 to the middle terminal and L2 to the middle terminal. You should also get 120 volts on each side.

If your dryer cord has 4 prongs, then your wires at the terminal blocks will be colored red, white, black, and green. The green will be bolted to the cabinet for ground. Do the same things for that one if this is the way your dryer is. Test voltage on both outside wires for 240volts, and then each end with the middle for 120 volts.

If you've gotten this far, and everything is okay........ Then if your dryer has a thermal fuse, it might be blown. This is a safety fuse that's designed to cut power to the heater elements if the dryer reaches unsafe temperatures. This is usually a result of vents being clogged. The only thing I can tell you about this right now, is you can get your model number and do a parts search online. Just type the brand of the dryer followed by the model number, and then you'll be able to find a parts diagram to help you find the thermal fuse.
It is usually located at the back of the dryer or near the blower wheel and looks like a little white strip with 2 wires attached. You can remove the wires for it and test it for continuity.
If you get the voltohm meter to do the above test, you set the meter to read ohms. Put the dial on the lowest ohms setting (the ohms symbol looks kind of like the indianapolis colts symbol on their helmet), and touch the red and black lead to both terminals. The meter should read 0. If you've never used one of these or done this before, it can all sound like japanese to you. So, like I said above, check out the link I posted on meters, and it will help you determine what the meter has to be set on for these tests. Dont be intimidated by it, it's really easy to do.


I hope this helps you out. Without the brand and model number I dont really have a lot to go on, but I did my best to get you the answer as to what might be wrong. There's other possiblities, depending on the exact symptoms. If you need any more help, I will be more than happy to personally try and help you figure it out.

Thanks,

Mike :)

Jul 31, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer had a 4 prong plug, and I moved into an apt and the outlet is 3 prong I changed the plug to 3 prong and now my dryer doesnt work


I would start at the breaker (which I'm sure you 've already checked). Then if you haven't already, I would check the voltage at the outlet. For this you'll need an anolog voltohm meter or a digital multimeter. You can get the anolog version for under 20 dollars. I would go with it if you choose to do this, especially if you're not going to be using it a lot.
Dont worry if you've never used one, because I can tell you how to do it.
First take a look at the dryer outlet. You'll want to make sure it's getting the proper voltage. You should have an "L" shaped slot. That one is neutral. The other two should be rectangular shaped. Those two are the "hot." This configuration is the most common.
If you do choose to get a meter, all you have to do is set the dial to the right place, and read the display. It should have a red test lead and a black test lead. If your dryer is an electric dryer, you'll be measuring for 240 volts AC. On the meter you want to set the dial to the next highest number above 240 (probably 250). here's what to do:
1. Insert a test lead into each rectangular slot. You should get a reading around 240 volts.
2. Insert one of the test leads into a rectangular slot, the other into the "L" shaped slot. This time you'll want your meter a step above 120 volts AC. The next highest number. Take the reading, you should get around 120 volts.
3. Next do the same thing as number 2, just on the other side. (rectangle slot to neutral L shaped slot). You should also get around 120 volts.

If..... You dont get a reading for the 240 volts on the first test, you'll know that you're not getting power at the outlet.
Also, if one of the "sides" for the 120 volts shows 0 or a number thats really low, then one of the legs of the circuit breaker is tripped. When you check the circuit breaker, make sure that you turn both of them off, and then on again. You see, it uses two breakers (or fuses) that supply 120 volts to both sides of the plug, thus giving the dryer 240 volts of electricity.

Also make sure that when you hooked the 3 wires up to your dryer, that you placed the metal strip at the metal terminal and secured it with your middle wire, at the middle terminal.

You could also remove the cord and do a continuity test on it to make sure that it's not the problem. On your meter, you can use the ohms setting, set on the lowest one. wrightly.jpg
Just like this. It's usually RX1, or RX1K. If you look up at the upper left hand corner of the meter, you'll see the ohms sign. Some have a thumbwheel, that when you first turn it on, you touch the two meter leads together, if it doesnt go to 0, you use that wheel to adjust it to zero.
You can also see on the upper right hand side, the AC portion of the voltage test. You would use the 250 setting on this one to do all of the tests above.

I hope this helps you. I will be more than happy to help if you need any further assistance.
Thanks for your time,

Mike

Jul 30, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Gauge showing low output alt only 1yr old wondering if it could be regulator or batt or wiring


if you have access to a digital multimeter, connect the meter (set to volts) across positive and neg. terminal of the battery, should read roughly 12.6 volts, close to 10 volts, battery may be going out, also test the alt output, disconnect neg term and place negative lead to battery neg post and positive lead to neg battery cable (make sure meter is set to amps) should read near the rating, if both those, then you'd want to do a resistance test, (set meter to Ohms) disconnect battery and connect meter neg to either pos cable terminal or where the pos cable connects to the alt and connect positive lead to opposite of neg, should read next to 0, the check resistance of the ground by connecting meter between batt neg cable and body of alt.

- Spenser

Apr 04, 2011 | 1988 Ford F 250

1 Answer

Solution for "how do you determine if the pump is working versus the water valve needing replaced"


Make sure the water is turned on to the machine.
Set the machine to start the cycle. Put a volt meter on the water valve terminals. At the fill portion of the cycle you will read 120 volts at these terminals. If you read 120 volts and no fill, the water valve is bad. If you do not read 120 volts, the timer is bad.
Fill the tub with water using a pot. Set the machine at the pump out cycle. If it pumps out, the pump is good.
If it does not pump out it could be a bad pump or bad timer.

May 26, 2009 | Whirlpool 24 in. DU900PCD Built-in...

1 Answer

Dryer works but no heat, have a multimeter but need to know how to use and what to test


no heat at all? open front to access heater box, set meter to ohms. (unplug dryer), test for continuity across element connections. (disco at least one wire at each part to ensure accurate results for each check. then reconnect when done) some ohms is good here. if OL on meter then its open/bad. check each thermostat on side. they should all be 0 ohms. post results.
At terminal block in rear check voltage while plugged in. set meter to volts AC. each outside terminal to center should show 120 V approx. then together 240v. if 120 only on one side or one side significantly less than 120 then check outlet. Missing one phase/leg of supply can cause motor to run but no heat.

May 03, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do i know i wired my wall plug right on my dryer


if this is a 240 volt dryer with a volt meter set on 240 volts or higher ac touch a meter lead to the two outside screws on the terminal block you if connected right get 240 volts
from each outside screw to center screw 120 volts ac

Apr 25, 2008 | Dryers

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