Hello rebuilt my nsr starts lovely sound great I went to put my clutch cable on there is fair to much wire I adjusted nuts on engine case to fullest and at clutch lever it working but It wasn’t like that when I taken it apart it was tight so I don’t understand

Step 1 Pull back the rubber cover of the clutch lever to reveal the lock nut and adjusting screw. Loosen the lock nut with a wrench. Tighten the adjuster screw until it won't turn any more.
Step 2 Remove the left frame cover of the body of the bike and set it aside in a safe place. Remove the bolts holding the secondary gear case cover and the clutch release cover with a socket wrench. Remove the secondary gear case and clutch release cover and set them aside.
Step 3 Find the lock nut and screw located at the lower end of the clutch assembly cable. Loosen the lock nut. Loosen the screw by three rotations. Slowly finger tighten the adjusting screw until you start to feel resistance. Loosen the screw a quarter-rotation. Tighten the lock nut to hold it in place.
Step 4 Locate the lower cable adjuster above the clutch release cover. Loosen the two lock nuts of the adjuster with the socket wrench. Turn the cable adjuster screw and check the clutch lever as you turn. Tighten the adjuster screw until the clutch lever will wiggle loosely or "play" about 1/8-inch. Tighten the lock nuts.
Tighten the lock nut of the clutch lever. Replace the clutch release, secondary gear case and left frame cover. Pull the rubber cover back over the clutch lever.

Its fairly easy to determine if your clutch is hydraulic or cable. Check in the engine compartment against the firewall on the drivers side, and see if there are one or two hydraulic reservoirs side by side. If there are two, the far left one is for the clutch, and you have a hydraulic clutch.
If you have a cable clutch, the cable should be clearly seen by the side of the brake hydraulic reservoir, a rather thick cable running from the firewall to the bell housing area.
There are two possibilities for adjusting - the adjusting nuts are either at the point where the outer part of the cable enters the firewall to connect to the clutch pedal, or where the inner cable connects to the release bearing fork.
To adjust, release the outer nut (there should be two, one is a locknut) and take up the slack by screwing the other nut inward.
Make sure you don't overtighten the cable, this could lead to your clutch slipping and you will need to replace the clutch plate sooner.
A hydraulic clutch is usually not adjustable, so if you have a problem there, take it to a service station.
Have fun.

the clutch adjuster on the engine, not the cable adjuster, the unit behind the cover where the cable enters on the engine left side sat on bike, loosen the cables, remove the cover and loosen the 10 mm nut, get flat driver and screw the pin in till you meet resistance, then a tad midges dikc more, then back off quarter a turn, keeping the pin from moving with driver use 10 mm spanner hold driver tight and tighten the nut, it sounds like the adjuster needs loosening, as it is operating the clutch.

Hi, Victoriakung a proper clutch adjustment for big twins starts by squirting some silicone spray or Brake Kleen into the top of the rubber boot on the clutch cable and sliding it back exposing the cable adjuster. Loosen the jam nut and turn the adjusting screw all the way in so your clutch lever has excessive slop. Remove the Derby cover, loosen the jam nut on the clutch pack adjuster screw and screw it in until light resistance is felt against the clutch rod then back the adjusting screw out 3/4 of a turn and tighten the jam nut.
Check primary fluid level and replace Derby cover unless you are running an early model "Dry Clutch" leave the Derby cover off. Go back to the clutch cable adjuster and back it out until there is 1/8" free play between the clutch lever and the bracket perch. This is correctly accomplished by pulling the clutch cable end outward with your right hand and pulling the clutch lever in with your left hand and modest pressure on both hands to eyeball the free play. Tighten cable adjuster jam nut and slide rubber boot back to its original position.
On Dry Clutch Models you need to square the pressure plate by adjusting the 3 stud nuts on the outside of the pressure plate so that when the clutch lever is pulled in the pressure plate shoots "STRAIGHT" out and disengages evenly.
On Sportster models, the procedure is the same except the clutch cable adjuster screws directly into the primary cover with a jam nut. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-adjust-a-motorcycle-clutch-on-a-harley-big-twin
http://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/file
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
http://mybikemanuals.com/harley-davidson/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-owners-manuals/
https://www.6ya.com/how-6ya-works to speak to me personally.

Does the grinding noise stop once you get the transmission in gear? if so, you may need to adjust your clutch. To adjust the clutch, find the cable adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. It should be near the downtubes of the frame in front of the engine. Slide the boot up or down to expose the adjuster and loosen the lock nut. Turn the adjuster barrel inwards getting a good deal of slack in the clutch cable. Then, stand the bike up fairly straight and remove the derby cover from the primary. Inside, you'll see the clutch assembly with the adjuster screw in the center of it. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster screw inwards until you feel a resistance. DO NOT FORCE THE SCREW OR YOU'LL DESTROY YOUR INNER CLUTCH HUB. Once you feel the pressure, back off on the screw 1/2 turn and lock the lock nut down tight. Replace the derby cover. Go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster barrel outwards until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay in the lever at the pivot. Lock the lock nut down tight and replace the protective cover. Also, make sure that the oil in your primary is not too high. With the bike standing straight up, the oil should be just to the bottom edge of the outer clutch drum, the bright aluminum ring on the outside of the clutch assembly. If it's too high, the clutch will drag and you will be unable to find neutral with the engine running.

Good Luck
Steve

I'd adjust the clutch. With the engine off, put the transmission in first gear. Pull the clutch in and hold it. Try to start the engine. If the bike pulls forward, you need to adjust the clutch.

Find the rubber boot that covers the cable adjuster on the clutch cable and move it up or down. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inwards getting as much slack in the cable as possible.

Then, take the derby cover off the primary. You'll see an adjuster screw in the middle of the clutch assembly. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inwards until you feel a resistance. DO NOT FORCE THE SCREW OR YOU'LL DAMAGE YOUR INNER CLUTCH HUB. Turn the screw in until you feel a resistance. Then, back it back out 1/2 turn and tighten the lock nut. Replace the derby cover.

Go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster barrel out until you have about 1/8 inch of freeplay in the cable. Tighten the lock nut and replace the rubber boot.

Good Luck
Steve

Let's try adjusting your clutch. Follow the clutch cable down until you find the rubber bellows. Slid the bellows up and you'll see the cable adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and adjust the cable as short as it will go.

Now, remove the derby cover. In the center of the clutch assembly you'll see an adjuster screw and a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster screw inwards until you feel pressure against the screw. Don't force the screw as you will start to release the clutch. Once you've went in until you feel resistance, back out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the lock nut down.

Now at the cable adjuster, adjust the cable out until you have about an 1/8" freeplay at the lever. Lock the lock nut. Now, test the clutch to see if it's dragging. Pull in the clutch, put the tranny in first gear, hit the start button. If the bike tries to creep forward, the cluch is dragging and you need to tighted the cable just a bit. If the bike does not try to pull forward and you can find neutral with the engine running, your clutch is working like it should.

If this does not solve your problem, the shifter pawl in the transmission may need to be adjusted. This requires special tools and an educated touch. This job would be better left to a professional.

Good Luck
Steve

It should be under the left side engine case. un do case screws, remove clutch cable, the clutch should have a series of plates and are held in a basket with a big nut in the centre holding it on to the crank, remove nut and it all should slide off towards you. replace plates and replace every thing in the reverse order, when done make sure that there is 1/4 inch of play in the adjustment of the clutch lever. This means when you pull in the clutch you should not feel any resistance for the first 1/4 clutch lever travel. also when trying to undo clutch centre nut, put the bike in gear and put a steel bar through the spokes of the wheel held against the swing arm to lock up the engine to undo the nut and tighten it.

A slight grinding noise is common when sitting idling with the clutch out and then trying to put the transmission is first gear, especially when the transmission is cold. You can try holding the clutch in for a short while and then try putting it into gear to see if that stops it. I'm not sure adjusting the clutch is going to help much. It's a matter of stuff spinning and other stuff not spinning in the transmission.

If you want to adjust the clutch, find the "bellows" type cover that covers the adjuster in the middle of the cable. Work this cover up or down and uncover the cable adjuster. Break the lock nut loose and adjust the adjuster inward making the cable shorter. Adjust it all the way in.

Remove the derby cover. You may want to stand the bike up fairly straight up to do this to make sure you don't have any oil running out of the primary. With the derby cover off, you'll see the clutch pressure plate. In the middle of the plate, you'll see a screw with a lock nut on it. Make sure the bike is in neutral. Break the locknut loose. The engine may try to turn a bit when you try to break the nut loose. Turn the screw inward until you feel a resistance. I usually do this then back the screw back out a bit and then back in several times to make sure I'm at the point of resistance, no further. You don't want to start releasing the clutch with the screw. Once you've turned the screw inward until you feel the resistance, back it back out 1/2 to 1 turn. Lock the lock nut back down and reinstall the derby cover.

Then, adjust the cable adjuster out until you have about an 1/8 inch of free travel at your clutch lever pivot. I usually use a nickel between the clutch lever and the lever stancion.

Disconnect the clutch cable at the case then see if the there is any resistance in the clutch lever in-out movement. When the tank was remounted the cable may have gotten pinched or moved out of proper routing. If I understand correctly, prior to the frame painting the clutch was okay, but after the paint it was not, and the left and right side cases and clutch were not touched. Obviously you used the wrong brand of paint. The clutch would have been fine if you had used Krylon brand paint. Post a comment and let me know what you find.