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You might want to find a local machine shop that has an ultra sound extractor. The only way I have found to guarantee not to damage the caliper, or whatever part you have something broken off in. Since the caliper is aluminum and the bolt is steel it is very easy to ruin the caliper trying to drill out the bolt.
The exhaust flange is held on by two nuts on studs in the head. The studs are 5/16" diameter. The nut outside size is 1/2". Now the threads could be either national course or national fine threads but most are national fine. I hope this answers your question.
u need a 12 point socket, looks like a 12 side star. sould be able to find at sears in the craftsman sockets. get a small set, there is a couple different sizes on the bike. ask for 12 point socket set.
On the Ironhead Sportster, the top motor mount bolt that goes through the frame is usually a 1/2 inch bolt. I'd use a grade 8 fine thread bolt with a nylok nut on it. Make sure you "shim" the top motor mount to the frame with the appropiate amount of washers so as not to "torque" the frame. If you do, either the top motor mount or the tab on the frame will break from the torque and vibration.
For a wrench or for the acctual bolt size.
To remove front pads..you need 8mm allen socket to pull the caliper guide pins, then 17 or 18mm..To remove rear pads...you need 13mm socket for lock bolt on guide pins and 15mm open end wrench (thin section to hold guide pin while you remove lock bolts..I ground down a spare wrench). You DO NOT have to remove rear carriers to change rotors..just remove lock screw and angle rotor out. The B5 Passats don't have the electronic parking brake so you don't need VAG Com to change pads. Installation tips: Clean and regrease the guide pins with "synthetic caliper grease" Rear lock bolts come with preapplied thread locker and "are not to be reused"..I just wire brush the threads and use some Loctite Blue on em. I smear just a little antisieze on the inside bore of the rotors and on the lock screw threads to prevent corrosion and make next rotor change ez. Torques: Front caliper guide pins:18 ft lb Front carrier bolts: 89 ft lb Rear guide pin lock bolts:26 ft lb Wheel lugs: 89 ft lb
To remove the caliper, you need a torx head tool (can't remember exact size) to remove the two slide pin bolts.(inside the two small rubber boots at each end of caliper) After getting them loose, remove the brake hose, then remove bolts and caliper. (don't loose the two copper washers...if they aren't in the new caliper box you will need them.) Check and see if the caliper retracts easily after it is removed. If it does, the rubber brake hose may have internally failed and is your problem. If piston is very hard to move, get a new caliper. Replace both side brake pads, not just side you are workingon. (recommend both calipers as well but most times it works fine with one. When replacing, make sure slides are free in calipers and thread pins by hand so that you don't cross thread them. After it's back together bleed front brakes and before moving car step on brake to re-set pistons.
It is an odd size, I believe 9mm thread and Heli-coil makes a kit just for this job. I know because I have the kit at work! Try another Autozone or ask to speak to the manager and have him look it up, it does exist for sure. This is actually a pretty common problem. If you're still stuck tomorrow and I will dig up the part number and post it.
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