Where can i find fairing parts, handle bars, and rear brake lever?

2400 a 2500? seems so.
find a real ASE shop, and win.
yes clunks never just go away, they get worse as the wear accelerates..(like slugging wall hard each day hurts more )
due to velocity is faster for more wear (traveled, and goes worse FASTer) aka as doomed, wise is not going to far like this.

REAR: 101:" I use an electronic stethoscope to find mine.
rear clunks,. I've had them all in 60 years driving! you name it.bing.
no miles on truck told mine was 2004 1500(5speed m/t)
I used to restore 4wd cars as 2nd job. (for years) I am a gear head.
I had 4 bay shop on my property. upto 2009

• bad U-joints !
• bad brakes rear.
• bad emg, brakes top hats bat, gee.
• bad axle bearing , I just fixed, 5 years ago.

the microphone (my tool) clamped to axle 3 places, 4 channels mic.
left rear , center and right rear
the right is 10x louder.
so I , remove the whole real brake assembly. and bingo bad brakes seen. or in 2nd case all that is good but if I man handle the axle end with my trusty lever (crow bar) I SEE ILLEGALL play in the AXLE bearing it 3 planes, in and out and up and down and forward read.
I also man handle THe Ujoint, no play at all allowed L/R/Top down
or other suspension parts bad in rear
a real ASE shop levels all that in and find excessive play or even makes the noise doing so.
I can drive or buddy does and my head phones on and 4 channel knob, and can hear the noise. them move mics to hone in to loudest spot. this method avoids injury. finding any noise on a moving car
did you do the safe jump on bumber test, left and right rear.
trucks are easy.
real bumper pickup truck 2500 I guess.
jump it hard even 2 mean or one fat LOL. hard
CLUNK>?or push hard hands on one side of rear fleet side. rear. end. and see if transverse bar CLUNKS.
or take car to a body shop that does body and suspension work
and watch the magic tests. the first. lots or what is called man handing and levering and visual inspections first. and brakes too. rear.
and the drive shaft (aka prop shaft)
there are even youtube showing how to lever parts even with a 2by4
to find parts bad, easy. in suspension or the drive shaft.
on stands or lifts./

NOISE is complex topic and noise can be telegraphed.
fooling even the best techs. anyone..

Brake cables have a knob on the end of them, that knob fits into the brake lever. A great web site for more information is "Sheltonbrown.com". To install the cable ends, brakes must be released at the other end. The top of the cable at the brake should have a disconnect on it. That frees up the cable, so iut can be connected.

Good news. Mine did the same thing. There should be a running light and a "brake" light all within the same bulb. Check the switches on the front brake lever and the rear brake lever. Both actuate the rear brake light. You can usually do a quick test by pushing the brake lever on the handlebar all the way out and see if the light goes out. This is what my problem was. If you poke around you will see a switch on both brake levers. Make sure they are pressed in when your not pulling (handle bar lever) and pushing (right foot brake lever). You will see a switch with a little rod on it, when you press the foot break/pull the hand brake, it will come all the way out. That is when the light comes on. Hope this helps.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/shift-levers-shifters

If this is the road bike model, then most likely the shifter and brake lever are the same. To brake pull back on the lever, to shift move the lever toward the center of the bike.

The Right lever works the REAR gearing. This makes small changes. The bigger lever will shift the gears toward a larger gear and make the cycling easier. The small lever works the opposite.

The Left lever works the FRONT gearing. This makes large changes. The Bigger lever will shift the gears toward a larger gear and makes the cycling harder. The small lever works the opposite.

If you don't have these types of levers, I can give you different instructions but the essentials of big lever/ small lever and Right/ Left are the same.

If the screw is all the way tight and still slipping ... try to find a fatter part of the handle bar to mount the grip to. You will probably will not find any such that is convenient for you to continue to use the brake ... remove the grip, wrap some electrical tape around the handle bar, reattach the grip. Tighten it and give it a try.

I hope this works for you

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usually there are 2 levers on each handle bar, one lever lowers the gear while the other one raises the gear. usually the right handle bar has the shift for the gears on the rear wheel, while the left handle bar has the shift for the pedal gears

You might be best servered by taking your list to your local HD dealer, or calling say a Dennis Kirk, ot J&P Cycles. As they can give you best prices on the package for the parts you need.

COMMON PROBLEM----you have to push it forward you wont break it, it is much stronger than you think you just have to hold the cover section and push or lever the bar forward, it will go. I believe one Ace hardware guy had some sort lever wrench made up just to do this for all the people like you. so muscle up and do it "youdoit "