At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hi mate sounds like you tested all the standard stuff you obviously know what your doing - In my experience when I get a bike like this where all seemingly is good and set correctly but no sign of life when trying to start 99% of the time ends up being the stator.
And I know it seems strange but I honestly up to about my tenth bike now where even though shows spark at plug when kicked over test, the stator still at fault when tested with Multi meter (way out of spec.)
If you have your repair manual flick through and get the spec ranges for the resistance on your stator then disconnect the stator lead at the CDI end and its very simple set your meter to ohms and plug into each pair of wires (usually 3 pairs) and see what readings you get
don't worry to much if you don't have the spec range as if it is the stator you will quickly notice you get zero reading on one pair of wires if not all three?
let me know if you want more clarification on testing
If all this fails to assist then my advice would a be leak down test to diagnose compression leaks, open valves, gasket leaks etc Then I would pay attention to the pilot circuit of the carbi, Double check your timing and valve clearances, Then I would be back to testing stator again?
Very rarely your coil pack (spark plug cap) can fail but be worth testing it when you have your multi meter out ( you looking for about 0.08 - 0.10 resistance reading on it) and even more rarely the CDI box can fail, no real way to test this apart from plug new one in and test if cures things...
Being that 5-6 years old and you know the bulk of how to fix and maintain this sound more and more like a stator problem..
On the up side if you do need to change the stator great opportunity to change cam chain aswell they run like brand new with full stator power and a brand new cam chain
cheers mate .... Good luck!
you need to multi meter test for resistance (OHMS) your dealer bike shop or service manual should have the expected range readings and should give reasonable idea how to test each stator or the coil or ignition coil - I have no idea what your bike is to offer any more specific but this is broadly speaking how you test the electrical side of ignition
pretty much any multi meter with OHMS setting will give you enough info on a fault as when you test it will be way out of spec range if is at fault for instance I just tested my own bikes stator and one of the readings was meant to be within 700 - 1050 range and the reading I got was 10 so accuracy of meter not to important when looking for faults if it is faulty it will show up easily
when you say spark plug is good do you mean you know plug is new or the plug is sparking well when you kick over or try to start bike with plug out of motor ?
maybe write back if you like with info such as what bike are we talking about and is the plug sparking at all etc
good luck regards Jamie
you need to use multi meter to test resistance readings from the stator your owner manual or bike shop can tell you what readings are within spec for each source on the stator but from what your saying and the age of bike almost definitely would be stator related
stator would normally have 2 or 3 sources of power or alternatively called tappings of the one stator my guess is when you test it with meter (OHMS) readings you will find at least one of the source power being out of spec and pretty much if any of the tappings or sources are out of spec you will not get bike to start from kick over - you will have weak spark or no spark!
any bike shop should be able to test the resistances for you if you dont have multi meter
okay...these are general to Yamaha igniter systems...
so bike is in neutral...shows neutral, kill switch on...
Test each plug cap with a new spark plug...if one or more getting no spark....
Unhook the pickup coil harness and test the resistance (the P U coils located in left front crankcase cover with stator. If resistance tests out fine, ensure the connector is clean and connect.
Now test that both ignition coil packs primary and secondary resistances are within spec.
Verify the ignition coil packs are getting battery voltage to the primary terminal (often a red/white wire).
Ensure the igniter (the ignition black box) also called TCI is getting battery voltage on its supply.
Ensure all connectors clean to TCI.
The only other issue may be the interlocks are trying to shut down ignition....typically a black/white wire from the igniter goes to sidestand relay, tip over switch....both shut down ignition by grounding the control side of the TCI...could be they are partially grounding allowing minimal ignition..
hello, if you have weak fire probably, source coil or pickup in stator, or stator itself, if its not a real blue fire, bike will not run, if its sorta orange looking probably, stator, check for shorts in wires also..
If it ran before, I would double check your electrical connections. Its more likely you didn't get a connector pushed all the way together or left off a ground wire. The ignition coil specs are generally 1 ohm or less on the primary (small Wire) side, and 5K-10K ohms on the secondary (spark plug) side. Each side should be tested to ground. Pick-up coils are typically open or really large ohm reading in Megaohms normally and around 100 ohms when the magnet on the flywheel passes by. there is no way to test the CDI box other than putting it on a know running bike or getting a known good CDI and putting it on your bike. Double check that the spark plug cap is secured to the high tension lead as well. Testing the stator is a little more complicated, but a quick way is to close the gap on an old spark plug to about 0.010" and see if there is a week spark. If so, the stator will need to be replaced.
it is probably not a weak spark. if you are determing this because the plug is sooting up and fouling and or the bike is missing or just not running right. your carbs need rebuilt. know of same problem with friends bike. tried eveything. coils igniter etc.. check out g man industries.com give them a call they will explain what is going on with your bike
Not much info Smitty but if that weak spark is constant (ie:pulsing ) i would guess that the trigger coil is ok.I'd make a check on your ignition coil earths then do a couple of continuity tests on your coil primary and secondary , orange terminal to ground,orange terminal to ht lead ,if they check out ok according to service manual specs then i'd run continuity test on the source coil.....Hope this is helpful in someway ...Smittycat.......from Flabbycat
×