1996 Suzuki GSX-R1100. Why isn't clutch working?

SOURCE: Long clutch pull/engagment on 696?

I recently installed CRG levers on our 696. No boot to fiddle with on this model. You can see the Allen key on the back of the lever perch from the outside or bar end. Simply adjust the Allen screw in/out with an Allen socket and ratchet to a range of positions then check clutch engagement and drag via a few test starts. Too far one direction and the clutch hangs up while too far the other way can give you an off/off switch lacking in full engagement that is hard on the gearbox. Conservatively set after 15 minutes of adjusting and testing resulted in an incredible reduction in the distance that my wife had to reach her tiny hands. She was extremely pleased as this completely addressed her only real complaint and made it much easier to ride. I did take the more expensive route with the Termi cans, getting a bit of a break from my local dealer at about $1250. The upside I found was that there really is no need for the dealer to install the cans because re-mapping wasn't necessary as it was with my 1098. If you are capable of unbolting your gas tank (a gazillion Allen screws on the tank covers and three bolts on the tank) and have a spare set of hands available to hold it so you don't have to undo fuel lines it is fairly simple. It's a good idea to take the tank covers off so you can see where everything is hiding. While you are under there with the battery disconnected I recommend installing a battery charger pigtail so you can easily plug in a trickle charger for the off-season. I spent maybe two hours - less time than on the fender eliminator. Again as I found putting Termi cans on my1098 the 696 loses the irritating leanness, starts much easier (fast idle no longer necessary) and runs much cooler. Plus it's all covered under warranty. With the removable sound deadener inserts you have a much nicer sound in your choice of "mellow" and "heavy metal". In my mind it now sounds like a Duc is supposed to sound. One trick on the install: the new CPU caused my dash to switch to EU (km instead of miles). There is an excellent detailed thread on this site that shows how to change back to US settings. Takes about two minutes.

SOURCE: Wire clutch adjustment

You should adjust the cable at the handlebars until it has loads of play and hardly moves the cable when you use the lever, then adjust the same cable at the gearbox end until it comes back into acceptable range with correct amount of play, then tighten locknut.
This is just taking up normal wear in the clutch. Note as guzzi clutches wear you get a clanking vibration noise from them at idle, its normal.

SOURCE: clutch

Check to make sure the slave and master cylinders are working. You can probably bleed it if the slave cylinder started leaking. Could possibly be internal on the clutch master.

SOURCE: How to adjust the clutch.

you should also check to ensure that the cable is not broken close to the radiator to the front of the engine (had the same problem and after changing the clutch and clutch cover that did not solve the problem it was the cable that was broken)

Albert

SOURCE: clutch push rod broke !!!

Chances are the prior owner installed some aftermarket springs that are too strong. This puts extra pressure on the push rod. Just pull the left and right cover of then remove the clutch assembly. put the new rod in from the left side then re-mount the left cover. Put the clutch back on then the right cover. The parts book shows a two piece push rod assembly. I wonder if a hardware store rod was installed because the factory rods are near impossible to find. The substitute rod probably couldn't handle the pressure and heat.
If not found elsewhere, google motorcycle salvage suzuki and see if you can find a used rod set.

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