My 1400 gets stuck in gear,wont shift,I was down a quart of oil

Remove the gear shift boot and look down below to see if the linkage has snagged itself. If not then you will have to get at the trans end by diving down the back of the engine. You may need an assistant to waggle the stick while you try and work out where its snagged. I take it the trans oil level is OK? You don't have any oil leaks, in which case its possible the 4th gear hub has seized.

Sounds like your clutch is getting stuck in the disengagement. Follow the clutch cable down and check to see if its moving or stuck.

Depends on your engine.

1980 JEEP CJ-7 2.5L 4-cyl Engine Code [B]
CAPACITIES
Engine, GM without filter..........2.4 quarts[1]
Wix Filter ........ 51040
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........8.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, A904, 30RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, A999, 32RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
3 speed A999, 32RH..........8.4 quarts
3 speed A904, 30RH..........7.0 quarts
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, SR-4..........3.0 pints
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, T176..........3.6 pints
Differential, Front..........2.5 pints[3]
Differential, Rear..........4.9 pints
Transfer Case,..........4.0 pints

1. Add extra oil when replacing filter. After refill check oil level.
2. With engine automatic transmission operating temperature, shift through all gears.
Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid as needed.
3. 1984-1992 Models with command-Track, add 5 oz of 75W-90 GL-5 to shift motor housing opening.

TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....25 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission T176
Fill Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission SR4
Fill Plug.....20 ft-lbs

1980 JEEP CJ-7 4.2L 6-cyl Engine Code [C]
CAPACITIES
Engine, without filter..........5.0 quarts[1]
Wix Filter..... 51522
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........11.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, A904, 30RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, A999, 32RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
3 speed A999, 32RH..........8.4 quarts
3 speed A904, 30RH..........7.0 quarts
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, SR-4..........3.0 pints
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, T176..........3.6 pints
Differential, Front..........2.5 pints[3]
Differential, Rear..........4.9 pints
Transfer Case,..........4.0 pints

1. Add extra oil when replacing filter. After refill check oil level.
2. With engine automatic transmission operating temperature, shift through all gears.
Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid as needed.
3. 1984-1992 Models with command-Track, add 5 oz of 75W-90 GL-5 to shift motor housing opening.

TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....30 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission T176
Fill Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission SR4
Fill Plug.....20 ft-lbs

1980 JEEP CJ-7 5.0L 8-cyl Engine Code [H]
CAPACITIES
Engine, without filter..........4.0 quarts[1]
Wix Filter..... 51258
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........13.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, A999, 32RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, A904, 30RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
3 speed A904, 30RH..........7.0 quarts
3 speed A999, 32RH..........8.4 quarts
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, SR-4..........3.0 pints
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, T176..........3.6 pints
Differential, Front..........2.5 pints[3]
Differential, Rear..........4.9 pints
Transfer Case,..........4.0 pints

1. Add extra oil when replacing filter. After refill check oil level.
2. With engine automatic transmission operating temperature, shift through all gears.
Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid as needed.
3. 1984-1992 Models with command-Track, add 5 oz of 75W-90 GL-5 to shift motor housing opening.

TORQUES
Manual Transmission T176
Fill Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission SR4
Fill Plug.....20 ft-lbs

Oilman

Check and change the trans fluid that is in the engine just behind the shifter - pull the drain plug out that is under the shifter and let everything drian out. put the plug in and then open the inspection cover begind the left foot peg and pout in 1 FULL QUART OF HARLEY PRIMARY DRIVE OIL. YES, IT USES A SPECIAL OIL. That should fix your tranny issues.

If you are talking about the final drive oil you can use any 80/90 Hypoid gear oil. If you choose a synthetic Hypoid gear oil your rear end will run cooler. One quart of oil is enough for 4 or 5 rear end oil changes. Because the rear ends are so expensive ($1000), I change my rear end oil every other oil change.

If the gears change hard you are probably not using the right kind of oil in your engine. Use only a JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. Full synthetic oils will help the motorcycle run cooler and shift easier. Suzuki sells a 15w-50 full synthetic oil that is reasonably priced. Also , do not tap the shifter with your foot when shifting. Place your toe , pressing gently against the pedal , and then shift.

I found out the hard way. More than likely your trans is shot. Is there any gear oil in it? I've talked with a tranny shop that does only VW, they told me those transaxles are very finicky with what type and how much gear oil is in it. It doesnt take long to destroy the synchros and the gearing, because they are so small. I found some used transaxles, but all the pros reccommended I get a rebuilt. Seems like the average cost is around $1400. One other possibility is your linkage at the eng compartment is loose?

sorry but time to visit the transmission shop. the only thing you could try first is Lukas Transmission oil sold at parts stores one quart only. make sure you get the oil for transmissions and not the crankcase.

Yes, the bad news is bent shift forks. The engine comes out and dissassembles into about 75 different parts. The gears come out, the the shift drum, then the forks. Not a job for the Saturday mechanic.