When i am riding my triumph thunderbird 95 it will just shut off but then turns right back on then off then on then runs fine the rest of the time it seems to be when i first head out like the first 10 miles or so i have also noticed that when i am at a stop light and i use my front brake the rpms will dip down when i let go they go back up could it be my voltage regulator?
it was the ignighter coil that went out replaced it and ran great no more stalling problemsit was the ignighter coil that went out replaced it and ran great no more stalling problems
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Sounds to me like the bike is not recharging thebattery as it runs, and when you turn of the ignition the battery regains about 30%of its charge which allows you to run again, connect a multi meter to the battery with the ignition off, you should have 12 to 14 volts preset, now run the bike the voltage should rise to aprox 12-16 volts DC any readin lower than 12 volts could indicate a charging problem, hope this helps
it takes a lot of work to get carbs out first u need to loosen all clamps losen air box remove boots from carbs and slide the tripple pack out left side of bike its gonna take some wiggling no need to remove throttle cable or choke cable bowl r very easy to open once u have them out of bike use some zip tyes to hold them to frame only open one bowl at a time so not to mix up internals between carbsdo not i repeat do not separate carbs u will be soooo sad. there is a small pin and spring on back of float slide out pin and take out float and spring remember which way spring and float were atatched take a picture for refrence if your carb boots r worn and cracked now is a good time to replace them since u have the carbs out since it is such a pain to get them out
Most production bikes have the needle centre clip and mixture screw between 1&2 turns out(where the engine idels the smoothest)start at 1.5 turns out
Regards Andrew Porrelli
The pick-up coils fail sometimes but usually lead to a complete failure
Before just replacing parts u can eliminate some suspects ie kill switch,clutch switch & ignition switch by bridging
Also check that there isnt a spark jumping from an HT lead or plug cap
initially try to turn the engine slowly by hand (for valve adjustment, etc..) place the transmission in neutral and remove the spark-plugs (so you don't fight the compression of the cylinders). A 1 1/8" socket or wrench can be used on the crank-bolt or you can just pull the accessory belt. Avoid pulling on the plastic fan blades, they break. Also carefully check to see if it has spark and also check your fuses under the hood thanks and plse do rate this solution.keep updated.
it was the ignighter coil that went out replaced it and ran great no more stalling problems
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