How do I fix this ongoing problem

There is a module called a rectifier regulator...it looks like a metal box with heatsink fins on it..this module rectifies the ac coming off the stator and then regulates it to run lights and charge the battery...first thing you can try is to obtain a voltmeter and put it on the battery..the value should be anywhere from 13.8 to 14.4 volts DC with the engine running ...try revving the engine and see if the voltage value changes...you may even try switching lights on and off to load down the circuit...the voltage should remain pretty steady, no matter what the load is...if it fluctuates more that a couple of volts then I would recommend either taking the regulator rectifier off and taking to a shop to see if it can be tested...or, just replacing the unit( these reg/rectifiers are not cheap). If you should have good luck and find someone who can test the module and it tests good , then you will need to use the voltmeter set to AC volts and test the output of the stator leads. There may be 2 or 3 leads coming off the stator and you will need to check between all 3...or 2...the voltage should be 20-30 volts at idle and will increase as you rev the engine..this will ensure your stator is working...another thing to try with the stator is to measure the resistance of the coils..they should be a very low ohm reading and you need to also check each stator lead to ground...there should NOT be continuity between any stator lead and ground...if all these don't solve, then I would start looking at the ignition components as something may be starting to fail and pulling down the circuit

the stator produces ac power which is rectified by the rectifier pack to dc power which is what the electrics uses
the voltage regulator controls the voltage to 14.5-14.8 volts dc
the voltage regulator by controlling the voltage also controls the maximum out put from the stator or the current being produced to charge the battery and run the lights and what ever else you have connected
hot stator and rectifier indicates uncontrolled out put so take it to an accredited bike electrician and have it fixed properly
have the battery load tested as uncontrolled output will boil a battery and ruin it

To check the stator, you should have continuity between all three yellow wires and no continuity between any yellow wires and ground. If the stator tests good you probably need the regulator/rectifier.

yes it could be

check your battery 1st , then check the stator a/c output

• 10 or 16 Amps DC regulated for charging
battery
• Two black leads (C) from stator
• Yellow connector (D) with two pin
terminals
• Two yellow leads (E) to regulator-rectifier
(F)
• One red lead (B) from regulator-rectifier
to red connector output lead (A)
• 10 and 16 Amp systems use the same
stator, color coding and regulator-rectifier
• Alternator output is determined by the
flywheel alternator magnet size


The stator and regulator-rectifier are the same
for the 10 and 16 Amp systems. The system
output is determined by the flywheel magnet
size.
Test Alternator Output
1. Temporarily disconnect stator wire
harness from the regulator-rectifier.
2. Insert RED test lead (A, Figure 28) into the
V ω receptacle in the meter.
3. Insert BLACK test lead (B) into COM
receptacle.
4. Rotate selector to AC Volts position.
5. Insert RED (A) and BLACK (B) test lead
probes into output terminals (D & E) in
YELLOW connector (C). (Test clip leads
may be attached to either terminal).
6. With the engine running at 3600 rpm, the
output should be no less than:
• 20 volts - 10 Amp System
• 30 volts - 16 Amp System
7. If No or Low output is found, check for
bare wires or other defects. If wiring
defects are not found, replace the stator.
voltage depending on alternator type and magnet size

then check the regulator / rectifier , make sure it is grounded properly

make sure battery earth lead is good

i suspect loss of bat voltage is letting the afterfire solenoid close off the main jet

let me know model and type codes off engine & i will try help further

cheers

As a licenced repiarer I would want to be solveing this problem before the waranty expires so my advice to you is to once again return it to the dealer & tell them that you want the cause of the problem rectified. Replaceing the voltage regulator is only fixing the symptom If I were doing the job I would be checking voltage out put at the stator 1st then the wireing between the stator & the regulater if all is well there then you will need to further check the wireing loom front to back you dont say what the symptoms are that have caused you to return to your dealership 3 times so this does make it a little difficult to accurately diagnose your problem however it does sound to me like you have a bare wire touching the frame some where wich will cause a dead short resulting in the regulater failing. all the best Geoff Watcycle Mechanical Sydney Australia

Hi,
To check if you got a charging fault, get a multimeter and switch to voltage put across the battery. You should be getting at least 13.4 volts.
Turn lights on and this should fluctuate upwards. If your getting anything lower then what I stated you have a charging problem. Rectifiers and regulators can only really be tested of the bike with a specific tester. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

Jason

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

No charge to the battery could be caused by:

• faulty / loose / corroded / burned terminals / connectors from stator to regulator (most likely);
• faulty rectifier / regulator combo (likely);
• faulty stator (least likely).

To determine which, initially visually inspect the wiring and its connectors from the stator to the rectifier/regulator combo. Thereafter, a DVM/VOM is required to measure the AC voltage output of the stator (~30VAC), the DC voltage output of the regulator (~14.5VDC @ 4000RPM) and engine off battery voltage of ~12.5VDC. It maybe to your advantage to have the battery load tested as well.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

sounds like the stator may be grounded

hello and welcome
the alternator per say is split up into several components. the stator coil(located in the left crankcase cover) and the rectifier regulator (which is located bolted onto the frame above the stator area. you can identify this by three yellow wires going into it.
either one can be tested the regulator can be tested at a local dealership. and the stator can be tested by reading an ohm meter between either one of its three wires and ground. if any show up with any continuity between the unplugged yellow wires at the stator and ground the stator is at fault. thank you.