Engine will crank but want rev up charging system metered at 13.7 volts

This is an easy check if you have a cheap, simple volt meter. It's much better to have an old fashioned needle meter rather than a digital. The needle is more sensitive, much quicker, and makes a clearer diagnostic tool. But not to worry, for you fancy folks a digital still works (sometimes the results are not as clear).

1. Set the meter to DC Volts.
2. Attach the red and black leads of the meter to the positive and negative posts of the battery. Most modern day digital meters don't care if the polarity is correct or not. However, if you have a needle meter, best to put the positive of the battery with the red wire of the meter; otherwise the needle will not be happy with you.
3. Note voltage. It should read near13 volts if the battery is good and fully charged. If it reads below 12 volts it needs charged or it has bad cells. If after charging a few hours, the voltage is still below 12 volts then the cells are bad, replace it.
4. Turn the key to crank the engine while keeping your eyes on the meter. Whether the engine cranks or not, the meter should not fall much below 11 Volts. If it falls below 10 volts or worse yet below 9 volts, the battery has a bad cell or two. Replace the battery, charge it, and repeat the test.
5. If the engine starts, rev it up and watch the meter.
   1. If the charging system is working the voltage on the meter should quickly rise above 13 or 14 volts.
   2. If it rises up strongly towards the 14 volt range this indicates the charging system of the machine is working.
   3. If it plays around down near 12 volts you are reading the recovered voltage of a good battery, but the charging system is not working.
   4. If it simply stays below 11 volts, the battery and the charging system are both suspect. Replace the battery first. Fully charge it, and then repeat the tests before worrying about the charging system.

Note:if the battery falls below 9 volts the fuel cut off, a black cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor (if your model has this), will cut off the gas supply to the carburetor.

You don't say what happens when you try to start the machine. Make/Model/Year would also help with diagnoses. However, in general you have three possibilities (assuming the wiring is good).

1. The solenoid (starter relay) is receiving current from the key switch but is not engaging properly or consistently. To check this component, bypass it. To bypass it use one side of a jumper cable. Clip to the positive of the battery with one end of the jumper cable (red). Hold to the large input wire on the starter with the other end of the same jumper cable (red). This should cause the starter to turn over strongly. If so, replace the solenoid.

2. If you try the above scenario 3 to 6 times and find the starter turns over inconsistently, or at times does not turn over at all, you may have flat spots on the armature of the starter(or worn brushes). In this case you will have to replace the starter (this is the least likely scenario).

3. BEFORE you consider either of the above, consider the battery. This is an easy check if you have a simple volt meter. It's much better to have an old fashioned needle meter rather than a digital. The needle is more sensitive, much quicker, and makes a clearer diagnostic tool. But not to worry, a digital still works (sometimes the results are not as clear).

1. Set the meter to DC Volts
2. Attach the red and black leads of the meter to the positive and negative posts of the battery. Most modern day meters don't care if the polarity is correct or not. However, if you have a needle meter, best to put the positive of the battery with the red wire of the meter; otherwise the needle will not be happy with you.
3. Note voltage. It should read above 13 volts if the battery is good and fully charged. If it reads below 12 volts it needs charged or it has bad cells. If after charging a few hours, the voltage is still below 12 volts then the cells are bad, replace it.
4. Crank the engine while keeping your eyes on the meter. The meter should not fall much below 11 Volts. If it falls below 10 volts or worse yet below 9 volts, the battery has a bad cell or two. Replace the battery, charge it, and repeat the test.
5. If the solenoid just rapidly clicks watch the meter needle.
   1. If the meter needle rapidly jumps up and down below 10 volts, back to 13, below 10, back to 13 then it's more likely you have a bad starter.
   2. If the needle simply seems to vibrate a little you more likely have a bad solenoid. Refer to steps 1 and 2.
6. If the engine starts, rev it up and watch the meter.
   1. If the charging system is working the voltage on the meter should quickly rise above 12 or 13 volts.
   2. If it rises up strongly towards the 14 volt range this indicates the charging system of the machine is working.
   3. If it plays around down near 12 volts you are reading the recovered voltage of a good battery, but the charging system is not working.
   4. If it simply stays below 11 volts, the battery and the charging system are both suspect. Replace the battery first. Fully charge it, and then repeat the tests before worrying about the charging system.

I can't suggest any parts numbers because you did not include the very important Make/Model/Year. However, these general instructions will work for most riding lawn and garden tractors.

In these cases you have three possibilities (assuming the wiring is good).

1. The solenoid (starter relay) is receiving current from the key switch but is not engaging properly or consistently. To check this component, bypass it. To bypass it use one side of a jumper cable. Clip to the positive of the battery with one end of the jumper cable (red). Hold to the large input wire on the starter with the other end of the same jumper cable (red). This should cause the starter to turn over strongly. If so, replace the solenoid.

2. If you try the above scenario 3 to 6 times and find the starter turns over inconsistently, or at times does not turn over at all, you may have flat spots on the starter. In this case you will have to replace the starter (this is the least likely scenario).

3. BEFORE you consider either of the above, consider the battery. This is an easy check if you have a simple volt meter. It's much better to have an old fashioned needle meter rather than a digital. The needle is more sensitive, much quicker, and makes a clearer diagnostic tool. But not to worry, a digital still works (sometimes the results are not as clear).

1. Set the meter to DC Volts
2. Attach the red and black leads of the meter to the positive and negative posts of the battery. Most modern day meters don't care if the polarity is correct or not. However, if you have a needle meter, best to put the positive of the battery with the red wire of the meter; otherwise the needle will not be happy with you.
3. Note voltage. It should read above 13 volts if the battery is good and fully charged.
4. Crank the engine while keeping your eyes on the meter. The meter should not fall much below 11 Volts. If it falls below 10 volts or worse yet below 9 volts, the battery has a bad cell or two. Replace the battery, charge it, and repeat the test.
5. If the solenoid just rapidly clicks watch the meter needle.
   1. If the meter needle rapidly jumps up and down below 10 volts, back to 13, below 10, back to 13 then it's more likely you have a bad starter.
   2. If the needle simply seems to vibrate a little you more likely have a bad solenoid. Refer to steps 1 and 2.
6. If the engine starts, rev it up and watch the meter.
   1. If the charging system is working the voltage on the meter should quickly rise above 12 or 13 volts.
   2. If it rises up strongly towards the 14 volt range this indicates the charging system of the machine is working.
   3. If it plays around down near 12 volts you are reading the recovered voltage of a good battery, but the charging system is not working.
   4. If it simply stays below 11 volts, the battery and the charging system are both suspect. Replace the battery first. Fully charge it, and then repeat the tests before worrying about the charging system.

I can't suggest any parts numbers because you did not include the very important Make/Model/Year. However, these general instructions will work for most riding lawn and garden tractors.

Your'e lucky to have a kick start wish I had one. I gather you have both electric and kick on your bike. If the bike starts and runs OK using the kick start, I would suggest either your battery is failing to hold charge and/or not being charged while the engine is running.

First access the battery and put a volt meter across the terminals, without the engine running the voltage should be about 12.5 to 13 volts for a 12 volt system and 6 to 6.5 volts for a 6 volt one. Now start the engine by the kicker when warm open the throttle slowly and watch the meter. you should see the reading increase to about 14.4 volts (12 volt) and about 7.5 volts (6 volt). If no increase then get the alternator and regulator/rectifier checked out. If the meter is showing a voltage increase across the battery then the revs are increased, then the charging system is working
Next remove battery please always use this method: - remove negative lead first then positive. Check the battery fluid level if you can (modern batteries are sealed for life in most cases and you cannot open or check the fluid level them). The level should be at full for all cells fill with distilled water as necessary. You need to get a charger that will charge your battery below 1 amp (car chargers are no good they will fry the plates). If the battery will accept a charge, charge for as long as possible. Refit to bike please use this method connect positive lead first then negative. Try the starter if it tries to crank but the engine still won't start then I would get a new battery. Hope this helps & good luck.

After assuring battery is charged and all electrical connections are clean and tight, you can try this,
If your tractor has the external solenoid (separate from the starter), you can by pass this solenoid by jump starting the starter with booster cables.
Negative cable will go on neg post of battery to a good ground on engine and then positive cable on positive post of battery, then just touch the other positive end to positive starter post (where the large cable is connected from solenoid). If the starter engages, chances are the the solenoid is bad or could be ignition switch is bad.

Low battery, bad starter or bad cable to starter

Remove the seat to access the battery.
A loose battery connection will prevent charging, Tighten if loose.
If tight, start the bike.
Use a multimeter set on d/c volts or just a volt meter.
Hook red to positive and black to negative.
should read 12.50 volts - 13.50 volts at idle.
Anything under 12.50 means not charging at idle.
Rev motor to 2000 rpm. the meter should read 13.50 - 14.8. If the volts do not change, then your bike is not charging, Anything Higher than 15.0 means that your bike is overcharging, which usully fries the battery and blows the headlight fuse and/or main fuse.

If over/undercharging, this means that the voltage regulator is bad.
Before you buy another one, make sure the one you have is plugged in all the way and that the connectors are clean.
I had a GSXR 750 that sat for a while and i had to clean every connector on the bike before it would run/operate like it should, so a dirty or loose connection should be checked first.
Saves you a lot of money too because voltage regulators are usually over $100.

If you do not ride for months at a time, your battery will discharge over time.
a battery tender or battery charger is needed to keep the battery charged when the bike is not in use. Motorcycle batteries are not like car batteries, that seem to last forever. 4-5 years is about all you'll get out of a motorcycle battery on a motorcycle that is ridden alot.
On a motorcycle that is barely ridden, won't last much more than 2 years if your lucky.
Hope this information was helpful
Best regards
Big Al

I would check the charging system on the bike. With the battery at full charge, start the bike and measure the voltage at the battery. Use a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) and put the red probe on the positive terminal and the black probe on the negative terminal of the battery. Put the meter in DC volts 50 volt range. When you rev the engine a bit, you should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts. If you're reading under 13 volts with the engine running, your charging system had gone out.

put a volt meter on the battery while the bike is running. volts should
increase as you rev the engine up. maybe 13 - 15 volts. if it stays the
same and doesn't change, it a charging system problem. also check the
battery connections are good, especially the ground.