1988 FLHTC E-Glide. What is the torque spec for the 4 bolts holding the clutch assembly (diaphragm spring, friction and steel plates) to the clutch basket??

Hi Charles,
Try the following sites:
http://suzukiclub.co.uk/tech-specs
Homepage venold com
The FixKick com Repair Pages for Sidekicks and Trackers

Clutch and plates replacement can be performed on the motorcycle without removing the clutch shell or hub.

FIRST remove the primary chaincase cover. THEN remove six metric bolts to release the clutch diaphragm spring retainer from the clutch hub by loosening each bolt gradually and in a star sequence around the Hub circumference and then remove the diaphragm spring retainer, the diaphragm spring and pressure plate from the clutch hub and after the pressure plate has been removed remove the 9 friction plates, the steel plates, the damper spring and the damper spring seat from the clutch hub. Clean and inspect as necessary and wash all parts except for friction plates (and any bearing if removed) in appropriate cleaning solvent and then blow parts dry with low pressure compressed air as high pressure compressed air is unnecessary and dangerous. CHECK the friction plates by blowing off all lubricant from them BUT DO NOT wipe them off with a rag if they are going to be reused. THEN measure the thickness of each plate with a dial caliper or micrometer and if any plate is less than 0.143 in. (3.62 mm) thick throw them all away and replace them with a complete new set. ALSO look for worn or damaged fiber surface material on all sides. If new friction plates will be installed soak them all in FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAINCASE LUBRICANT (or whatever equivalent oil that you will be using in the primary after reassembly) for at least five minutes. THEN CHECK the steel plates for any grooving, bluish colouring (which indicates overheating/burning and which is usually accompanied with distortion/warping) and check for distortion by laying each plate on a machinist or other precision flat surface and try to insert a 0.006 inch (0.15 mm) feeler gauge between the plate and the precision surface. Do this in several places around the plate. If the feeler gauge slips under any plate or any plate is grooved, bluish or otherwise appears to be defective discard it and replace with a new plate. THEN rotate the clutch hub and shell to check for bearing smoothness and replace the bearing if it runs roughly, binds or has any end play. ALSO check the primary chain sprocket and the starter ring gear on the clutch shell at this time and replace the clutch shell if either the sprocket or ring gear are badly worn or damaged. ALSO check the slots that mate with the clutch plates on both the clutch shell and the hub and replace the shell or hub if any of the slots are worn or damaged (wear here can cause clutch hang-up on release). NOW check the diaphragm spring and diaphragm spring retainer for cracks or bent tabs and replace if any damage is evident.

After having soaked the friction plates as advised above first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring

seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm). THEN install the primary chaincase cover with a new gasket and torque the fasteners to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) in a sequence top to bottom from the centre to the front and then top to bottom from the centre to the back of the cover and then reinstall the primary case drain plug and o-ring and torque it to 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). THEN refill the primary chaincase with lubricant only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (if there is too much oil the clutch may drag). THEN adjust the clutch by turning the clutch adjustment screw in until it just resists and then with the cable slack somewhat removed operate the clutch lever a few times to set the clutch release balls in their ramps and then recheck the clutch release pushrod adjustment screw again so that it just resists tightening as it is screwed in and then back it out one half to one full turn and while holding it stationary tighten the adjuster screw lock nut. THEN the cable can be adjusted to provide one sixteenth to one eighth of an inch of freeplay at the clutch cable bracket or perch on the handlebars. THEN reinstall the clutch inspection (derby) cover with the five T-27 Torx screws and washers and alternatively in a cross pattern tighten the screws to 84- 108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm).

What year is it??

I am only familiar with newer models as per touring/six speed:

Install six bolts (5) (metric) to secure diaphragm spring
retainer to clutch hub. Alternately tighten bolts to 90-110
in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm).

judder spring concave side out, narrow friction plate, steel plate, friction plate, steel plate alternating with the remainder of the plates.

If it has a narrow friction plate like 2003 and later, judder spring concave side out, narrow friction plate, steel plate, friction plate, steel plate alternating with the remainder of the plates.

After having soaked the friction plates as required first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring
seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm).

Replacing the clutch is fairly easy on most motorcycles. A factory repair manual is helpful and suggested, but in a nutshell, here's the proceedure.
There is a round cover on the right side of the engine, this is the clutch cover. After draining the oil, remove the cover and this will expose the clutch pressure plate that will be retained with a number of washered bolts and springs. Remove the pressure plate, and the clutch plates can be removed. There will be alternating friction and steel plates-remove them all and keep them in a stack in the order they were removed. Soak the new friction plates in oil before installation. Install the new plates starting and ending with friction, alternating a steel plate in between.Be aware that some motorcycles have a different first and last friction plate, your parts dealer should know that when you buy the parts.
After it's stacked reinstall pressure plate with new springs, bottom out the washered bolts and no additional torque is required. Reinstall cover with new gasket, fill with oil and adjust clutch lever so it has enough slack to slide a quarter in between the lever and perch. Good luck!

All you have to do is drain and pull the primary cover. Now, I can't remember whether the '97 clutch had the bolts that hold it together or the snap ring. If it has the six bolts holding the clutch spring in, simply take the bolts out and your clutch assembly comes apart. You can change the fiber plates and the spring plate in the middle. If your clutch is held together with a snap ring, you'll need a special tool to disassemble the clutch. You can replace the friction plates, steel plates and the spring plate without taking the entire clutch off the mainshaft with either clutch.

Good Luck
Steve

SECTION 308-00: Manual Transmission/Transaxle and Clutch - General Information 1998 Contour/Mystique Workshop Manual DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Manual Transaxle and Clutch Manual Transaxle and Clutch - General Information This section covers general procedures for diagnosis and testing the clutch system. For additional information, refer to Section 308-01 . For specified clutch system service procedures. For additional information, refer to Section 308-02 . For a complete description of the manual transaxle. For additional information, refer to Section 308-03 .
The clutch system includes:

• Flywheel.
• Clutch disc.
• Clutch pressure plate.
• Clutch master cylinder.
• Clutch slave cylinder.
• Clutch release fork.
• Clutch release hub and bearing.

The clutch master cylinder transmits fluid pressure to the slave cylinder, which in turn moves the clutch release fork and the clutch release hub and bearing.
The clutch master cylinder uses brake fluid and shares a common reservoir with the brake master cylinder
The clutch is a single plate, dry-friction disc with a diaphragm-style spring clutch pressure plate. The clutch disc has a hub which is splined to the input shaft. The clutch disc has friction material where it contacts the flywheel and the clutch pressure plate. Torsion springs on the clutch disc help absorb the engine torque pulses. The clutch pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch disc, holding it tightly against the surface of the flywheel.
In the engaged position, the diaphragm spring holds the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc, so that engine torque is transmitted to the input shaft. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch release hub and bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center toward the flywheel. The diaphragm spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch pressure plate. Steel spring straps riveted to the clutch pressure plate cover pull the clutch pressure plate from the clutch disc, disengaging the engine torque from the transaxle and enabling the gears to be changed.
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Inspection and Verification - MTX-75
The following checks should be carried out before repairing or replacing the transaxle:
Poor gear shifting

1. Check the operation of the clutch: Lay a block of wood approx. 25 mm thick under the clutch pedal and depress the clutch pedal as far as the stop. If 1st or 2nd gear can be selected with no problem with the engine running and the parking brake applied, the clutch is OK. If the gear cannot be selected, repair the clutch.

1. Check the selector mechanism:
   • The free play in the gearshift lever must be no more than 15 mm.
     • If the gearshift lever free play is too great, check the gearshift cables and replace them if necessary.
   • If the gearshift lever free play is OK, adjust the gearshift linkage. For additional information, refer to Section 308-06 .

1. Check the transaxle fluid level and top up with Automatic Transmission Fluid ESD-M2C186-A if necessary.

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your clutch is simply a stack of friction disks and metal plates. The friction disks are splined into the outer hub ring and alternate, one friction disk / one plate / one friction disk / one plate etc. It's very simple to free this up if it's locked up. remove clutch cover. If you are unsure which is your clutch cover, follow the clutch lever cable to the actuator arm. remove the cable from arm and all bolts holding the cover. as you pull out the cover, you will see the arm rotate that's because it's geared into an arm that is connected to the front plate of the clutch basket assembly. You'll see it as soon as you pull it off. now you'll be looking at a round plate with 6 bolts with springs underneath. when you arent pulling the lever, these springs are extended and push the friction disks and metal plates together, thereby locking the inner hub to the outer hub. The inner hub is connected to the crank, and the outer hub is connected to the transmission input gear. So, if pressed together by the springs, your engine running causes your bike to move. Pulling the clutch lever in pulls the spring tension off the plates and allows them to separate. This allows your engine to be disconnected from the transmission. If your plates are locked together you will remove them one by one if you can and lubricate between each plate and disk and reinstalling. Pay close attention to how it came apart. Reinstall bolts and springs reinstall cover, aligning the lever gear teeth with the front of the clutches teeth correctly. put it all together and see if you are okay now.