Hi,i have a 2010 speed triple and it has a starting prob when hot ,when cold it cranks no prob but when hot the starter motor will only engage for a split second then when you try to crank it again it

Hi. If your 1998 Ford F-150 starts when the electrical system is cold but fails to start after driving, and you have already replaced the battery, alternator, and solenoid, there are a few additional potential causes to consider: 1. Ignition Switch: The ignition switch may be failing or experiencing heat-related issues. Over time, the switch can develop internal faults that prevent the vehicle from starting when it's hot. Consider having the ignition switch inspected and potentially replaced if necessary. 2. Starter Motor: A faulty starter motor can exhibit symptoms similar to what you're experiencing. When the starter motor gets hot, it may fail to engage and crank the engine. Consider having the starter motor tested to determine if it's functioning correctly. 3. Heat Soak: Heat soak occurs when the heat generated during engine operation affects the electrical components, particularly the starter motor. This can cause the starter motor to become temporarily inoperative until it cools down. Insulating the starter motor or installing a heat shield may help alleviate this issue.

4. Wiring and Connections: Inspect the wiring and connections associated with the starting system. Look for loose, damaged, or corroded wires, connectors, and terminals. Heat can exacerbate electrical issues, so pay particular attention to any wiring or connections that may be affected by engine heat. Repair or replace any damaged wiring or connectors as necessary. 5. Fuel Delivery Issues: While this may not directly relate to the electrical system, fuel delivery problems can cause starting issues after the engine is hot. Check the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel injectors for any signs of malfunction. Insufficient fuel pressure or clogged components can hinder the engine's ability to start when hot. It is advisable to have a qualified mechanic perform a thorough diagnostic check to identify the exact cause of the starting issue. They can use specialized tools and equipment to pinpoint the problem and provide appropriate repairs or replacements.

Check ignition key switch wiring. Could be a short between blower motor wiring and starter wiring. Try switching on high speed blower when ignition is on only (not started). If the starter cranks, then there is surely a leakage/short in the wiring.

Could be: a) starter cannot turn the motor flywheel (motor frozen or jammed)
or b) the battery is weak (not enough power to crank the motor)

Turn the dome light on and see if it is bright, see if light diminishes completely when engaging starter (high current drawn by starter).

Try to turn engine by pulling the alternator belt with transmission in neutral to see if motor is jammed. Or engage in a high gear and push the car and see if motor turns.

If motor is not frozen, jump and boost the battery if you suspect weak battery and see if you have the same problem.

Negative connector? Chasis is ground = Negative
solenoid engages magnet to engage starter motor
Check and clean connectors (bad connection can cause heat etc ) GL

1. Be sure the fuel shutoff valve, located behind the
operator's seat, is completely open.
2. Sit in the operator's seat, fasten seat belt and place
the steering control levers in the neutral position.
3. Engage the parking brake.
4. Place the PTO switch in the disengaged position.
5. If the engine is cold, choke the engine as needed.
6. Move the engine throttle control to about half engine
speed.
7. Turn the ignition key to the START position and
release the key as soon as the engine starts. Do
not hold the key in the START position for more
than 15 seconds at a time. Allow at least 60
seconds between each cranking attempt to prevent
overheating of the starter motor. Prolonged cranking
can damage the starter motor and shorten battery
life.
8. Allow engine to warm before operating the mower.

https://s27.postimg.org/yy2w2qx43/starter_motor.jpg

Click on the link.
Are you talking about starter motor? In the diagram, see starter relay, unplug the relay, see terminal 30 and terminal 87, if you use jumper wire between those two terminals, the starter motor should crank, Terminal 30 is hot all the time. If you try this make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. If it cranks with the jumper, the problem is on control side of relay, ignition switch--neutral switch--or wiring circuit, somewhere. see crank fuse, use a test lite and voltage on crank fuse when problem is ongoing. I can only help with testing.

The starter is effected by heat. Does the motor spin just as fast when trying to start it when the motor is hot? If it cranks real slow it is the starter. If it cranks over at the same speed it is not the starter.

Get an account on a mini cooper forum and post the question there. you could also try a small spray of starting fluid into the air cleaner. If it starts and stalls then it is a fuel delivery issue. If it does not start then remove a spark plug and verify that there is a spark as the motor cranks over. Check for any blown fuses.

Is cranking speed slow? Do a voltage drop test on battery cables.and a high output amp meter to test starter draw. normal ampere draw should be 250-350 amps cold and 300-375 amps hot as engine turns these readings should drop to 200-250 amps if not bad starter.

Hi,

The starter is deffinately 'dragging'.
Chances are that it has dropped a bush.
I'm not sure if Yamaha does a servie kit for the starter, but your local dealer will give you that info.

Most good auto electricians should be able to assist you.

To test the starter, place a multi metre across the battery terminals(the battery must be fully charged). Crank the motor and check how many amps the starter is drawing. Anything more than 30 amps is a sure sign of a failing starter.

Good luck

Jon

try looking into the coil pack on the car. replace them