Question about 1999 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja

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1999 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja relay quantity

How many relays dose a 1999 Ninja ZX-6 (ZX600-E7) have @

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 59,796 Answers

Hi, Jeff for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1999 Kawasaki ZX 6R Ninja relay quantity Google Search
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Posted on Jan 19, 2018

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 292 Answers

SOURCE: 30a fuse

is it inline on the red battery lead?

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: runs fine for a few miles then starts bogging and

it seems the bike is not getting enough fuel if the choke needs to be on check fuel tap or any in line filters

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

DoubleClutch

Greg O'Day

  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: The best way to remove a carb from a 1994 ninja

Ok you will have to remove the seat and the fuel tank.
You will need metric wrenchs and sockets and a stanard screw driver and a philip head screw driver.
One you have the tank off you will see the carbs. They will be attached to the airbox by some rubber boots that are held on by a clamp. Unscrew then all till loose. You will see more clamps on the front side of the carbs do the samd as the airbox. There will be 2 cables going to the carbs one is the throttle and one is the choke they will need to be disconected. Now what you need to do it pull the carbs out of the rubber intack boots and work them out of the bike.

Posted on Nov 25, 2009

sisadsl

gavin jones

  • 1508 Answers

SOURCE: 91 zx600 ninja voltage regulator

they are all pretty close, check the plug shape and the different colored wires going in. most stators put out similar voltage and amps, it should have three yellow or white which are the ac voltage and a red and a black for positive and earth, if there are other colors as well make sure the replacement has the same

Posted on Apr 04, 2010

yammy_alf

wenceslao alfar

  • 666 Answers

SOURCE: how do I clean the carborator on my 1994 kawasaki

Carburator Theory and Tuning
carb_jet_usage1a.jpg

For some reason everyone seems to think tuning a carb is just real easy. Change a jet or two and boom, your there. Yeah, right ! There are quite literally millions and millions of jet combinations. A rough check on Bing carbs shows there are at least 13,860,000 different combinations of jets. If you are going to change carbs you'd better be prepared to spend some time and money on the job.
venturi1a.jpgmainjet_1a.jpgIf you look at a carburetor, you will notice a rather large hole going from one side to the other. This is called a Venturi. Air passes into the engine through this hole (Venturi). As the velocity of the air entering the carb (and then the engine) increases, it's pressure decreases, creating a low pressure or vacuum in the venturi. This vacuum moves around in the venturi, as the throttle is opened, and sucks gasoline through the different jets in the carb. The gas then mixes with the air going through the venturi. The way the jets are made causes the fuel to vaporize as it goes into the venturi. Where the jets are placed in the carb and where the jet's outlet is located in the venturi, determines what part of the throttle opening that jet controls. The idle jet system (comprised of pilot air jet, pilot fuel jet and pilot fuel screw) controls from 0% to about 25% of the throttle opening. The throttle valve controls 0% to 35% of the throttle opening. The needle jet and jet needle control from 15% to 80% of the throttle opening and the main jet controls 60% to 100%. This means that when you open the throttle about one eighth of the way open, all of the gas/air mixture going into your engine is controlled by the idle jet. As you can see, the different jets over lap the operating range of each other. That is, the jet needle starts to effect things before the effect of the idle jet ends. This is something to remember when working on carbs... everything is interconnected. Change one thing and it will effect other things.
OK, let's go over the different systems in the carb and see what they do.

  1. Fuel level. The fuel level is controlled by the fuel floats and the fuel float valve. The floats are hollow or made of something that will float on gasoline, such as cork. Part of the float presses against the float valve, sometimes called a needle and seat. Most times the part of the float that touches the float valve needle is bendable so you can adjust the level of the fuel in the floatbowel. All plastic floats are not adjustable. If this level is way too high, gas can leak out the carb overflow tube or into the engine. If fuel gets into the engine it will thin out the engine oil, ruining it's ability to lubricate. This will, sooner or later, blow up your engine ! If a full tank of gas in the evening turns into a half tank by morning, check your oil. If it's thin and smells like gas, change it and replace your float valve and/or check your fuel level. If the oil is OK, check under the overflow tube. If it's OK, then check where you are parking your bike 'cuse someone is walking away with your gas ! If your fuel level is just a bit high, the mixture will tend to be a bit rich. If it's low, the mixture will tend to be a bit lean. This is because a high level takes less vacuum to **** fuel into the engine and a low level takes more vacuum to do the same.


  2. Pilot or idle jet system. The idle jet controls the idle and on up to quarter throttle, give or take a bit. On some carbs, like Mikuni there is an air jet too. In conjunction with the idle jet there is an idle jet air screw. This screw leans or richens the fuel mixture for a smooth idle and on up to one quarter throttle. From the idle jet, there are little passages cast into the carb that lead to holes just in front of the throttle valve or plate. There can be just one hole or there can be several, depending on the carb design. They effect the mixture as long as the vacuum, in the venturi, is over them. As the throttle opens further, the vacuum moves to the needle jet and jet needle.
  3. The Throttle Valve. The big slide that opens and closes your throttle has a bevel angle cut in one side of the big round (can be flat, too) slide, toward the air cleaner. This angle comes in several sizes and helps control the fuel mixture from idle to about 35% open throttle.
  4. Needle Jet. This jet doesn't really even look like a jet, but it is ! It controls the fuel mixture from 15% to 60% open throttle. It sets in the center of the carb, right over the main jet.
  5. Jet Needle. This is the needle that rides in the throttle slide and goes into the needle jet. This needle controls the fuel mixture from 20% to 80% open throttle. It can come in many different sized tapers. Sometimes, one needle can have several tapers on it. The top end of the needle has grooves cut in it, usually five, and you can move the little clip on the end up or down to lean (down) or richen (up) the mixture. Most late model bikes have needles with only one groove cut in them. This is so you can't richen the mixture, thereby keeping the EPA happy.
  6. Main Jet. This jet controls the fuel mixture from 60% to 100% open throttle.

Posted on Apr 16, 2010

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Hi, Jeff for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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2. Restricted radiator air flow.
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Hi, Johneh for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Hi, Sick_cycles for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Wleishman for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Leemilleruk for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Hi, Jeremybosser for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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