My bike will not give an even idle tick over I have replaced the diaphragms and inlet manifolds on both carbs but the revs still rise and fall at idle
SOURCE: still got problems with sr125
i would replace your cable and you need to check your valve clearance.
SOURCE: 2003 WR250 F - eng. won't idle down and carb starts to overflow
Hi Jwelden,
Have you checked the float level in the float chamber?
I guess you may have to reset the float pin adjustment, its allowing more gas to pass through thn required and thus the overflow!
Not bad too, when you are working on the float assembly take the opportunity to blow out the fuel line from petcock to the carburator via the seat for the float pin,any foreign particals there would stop the float pin to seal up and thus overflow.
Fit in an inline fuel filter , this will help keep out the dirt or whatever.
Hope this helps.
Knight (Yamaha Seca XJ750A 1981)
SOURCE: 2005 yamaha yzf 250-unstable idle
I had the same problem, Turns out that my shims were finished, replace the chims and check clearences.
SOURCE: i have a keeway 125 bike new idle prob
Pull the carb off the bike and clean it inside and out. Be sure main jet is clear. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well. Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > > > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward.
Put the rest of the carb back together and install the carb. Turn the gas on to let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Chances are this will fix the problem. I suggest that you install an in-line fuel filter to prevent this happening again.
Last item> You should have just a little bit of slack in the throttle cable where it goes into the top of the carb. Not more than 1/16". Let me know how things turn out.
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SOURCE: no idle falls on face
Sounds like time to clean the carbs.
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher at hand when working on carburetors.
Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carbs to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetors from the engine.
FOR EACH carb > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together and install the carb. Sync the carbs such that the slides on the carbs move at the same exact instant when the throttle is slowly turned from idle speed. Clean or replace the air filter and install an in-line fuel filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
Also, Google " 1978 XS 650 SE " There is a lot of stuff out there for your bike. Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
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