I have a 97 gsxr 600 bike has rebuilt 99 motor with 97 carbs DandD exhaust K&N filter and stage 1 dyno jet kit. it runs great over 3500 - 4000 rpm. It also idles very nice, very smooth. Sounds smooth when I crack throttle open in neutral but if I am trying to accelerate smoothly from a stop in 1st gear fewer than 3500 rpm it will buck and feel like it wants to fall on its face. If I pull in the clutch while it is doing that it will stall. I have not had a shop work on it but i have cleaned the carbs and the tank looked good but carbs had little dirt in bottom of bowls. I almost feel that it is getting to much fuel. And is the a possibility of cam overlap.there is a very small puff of air that shoots out of the carb throat at low rev, more so when cold.

I would recommend adjusting the idle screw on the carb. If it is not the idle adjustment, then check the choke as it may be sticking and that will cause the engine to idle at that rate.

Hello,

Yes, your carbs will have to be tuned to your exhaust - this, usually, means upgrading the needles/seats in your carbs. I bought a Cobra exhaust system for my Suzuki (earlier model) and it came with the upgrade kit for my carbs.

Some people are happy adjusting the jets out further and living with poor fuel mileage, fouling plugs and lousy performance.

Do some research by calling your parts dealer and ask them if they have the carb kit for the exhaust you are wanting to buy. I use one of two online dealers; Bike Bandit or Old Bike Barn

Hope this helps. If you find this information useful, please vote on this post. Thank you.

Regards,

Oz

Check the timing by removing the covers and bringing the engine around by hand to the marks at the top of the cams, then peek through the glass, it should be on it's mark. Or better yet, it has to be on it's mark. The carbs have no adj, except for the amount of air going in. What happened to the bike to make it change? Move to a different elevation? Change air filter? Change exhaust? In order to change the way it runs, you will need to jet it. Does it have Mikunis? Get a kit from Dyno-tune, they work great, and they are adj. You can find them on Ebay, I tried the factory setting jets, didn't work, got the dyno-tune kit, worked great. And, depending on the milage, when were the valves done last? That could be the problem right there.

It is in the carbs, A bike will act like that when it needs to be jetted, most jets are not adj, but whoever built the bike, must have messed with the carbs, you can go back to factory settings, which is about 1 1/4 turns out, and try it, you might need to get new jets, you might want to try dyno jet kit, they are adj and work great.. I had to do my bike, the exhaust was burning my eyes, backfired, wouldn't run, factory jets didn't work. But I found a dyno jet kit on ebay, and it works great. But before you take the carbs off, take a piece of heavy paper and cut the air intake in half with the paper to see what it does, then cut by 1/3, then 1/4, just to see if the intake is messing with you. Check it out, hope it helps.

next time this happens grab your standard long skrew driver and open the carb. bown drains see if fuel comes out

It still sounds like it still running rich. If it doesn't have any performance mods like aftermarket exhaust it wont like the stage 3 kit. The stage 3 kit should be install if it has high performance exhaust and k&n pods instead of an airbox and filter. Or the floats may be stuck or improperly adjusted.

If you have installed the Dynojet kit's carburetor needles take them off and use the stock ones.
Dynojet's needles are for track use only and the don't work properly under 4000rpm.

i have just had the same problem with my 99 srad 600. there is only one soloution to this and it is not a dyno, that just makes thing worse, the flat spot just off idle is due to it beign on carbs and i have put slightly shorter inlet tracts onto the carbs which helps them breeth easier this coupled with a new front sproket which is one tooth less than standard will get you over the stutter problem and will help the bike at lower revs as the sproket inceases the rev range right from the off throttle position, but be careful as the lower gearing makes for some good wheelies if your over keen on the gas. lol.

No.Although, it is a common practice to de-tune bikes at the factory so that they meet emissions requirements. All new injected HD's can expect a 4-6% increase in horsepower and 2-3% increase in torque just by dyno tuning the bike straight off the showroom floor. If you're riding a Low with a carb, then you do not need to have it re-jetted for slip-on's. If you're changing the exhaust from where it bolts to the engine, then yes you should. Dyno tuning is not as useful on carbureted bikes compared to injected ones, in fact I could tune a carbureted Low just as easily with an Exhaust Gas Analyzer as a dyno and save you $300. You're probably not that interested in minor differences in horsepower if you're doing slip-ons rather than a whole Screaming Eagle Stage 2 kit. Bolt 'em on and ride...

It depends on weither or not you have any aftermarket stuff put on the bike. My 600 will do 182 but that is with a power commander, acceleration kit, k&n air induction kit, k&n filter, and having it dyno tuned. My buddys stock 600 will do about 166 mph