Torque settings on the clutch inner hub and clutch spring bolts for a 2006 crf450r

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.
ZZRrocket · #8 · Mar 1, 2006

Just got off the phone with my service manager at my local Kawasaki dealership. "She" looked up the torque wrench setting for the clutch spring bolts. Its the same as a 2000-2002 ZX6R and 2005-2006 ZZR600.
Torque- Clutch Spring Bolts: 8.8 N-m (0.90 kgf-m, 78 in-lb)

Service Manual

http://zx6.us/docs/Haynes%20ZX600D-E%20-Service%20Manual.pdf

Kawasaki ZX600 (ZZ-R600 & Ninja ZX-6) Service and Repair ...zx6.ushttp://zx6.us > Haynes ZX600D-E -Service Manual PDF. A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series. All rights reserved. ...
Kawasaki. The Green Meanies by Julian Ryder. Kawasaki Heavy Industries. 243 pages

Hi Mick:
Don't know what your bike is so suggest you refer to you make and model service manual.
Example - My KLR 650
Clutch hub nut - 100 ft-lb
Clutch spring bolts - 87 in-lb

After having soaked the friction plates as required first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring
seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm).

Three bolts are 70 lbs,could be 120+/-.

4-Wheel Drive

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Negative battery cable
     
   • Rear wheel
     
   • Rear brake shoes
     
   • Rear halfshaft nut and loosen the halfshaft from the hub
     
   • Wheel hub and place it in a vise
     
   • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
     
   • Antilock Brake System (ABS) sensor bracket and move the sensor aside, if equipped
     
   • Parking brake cable from the steering knuckle
     
   • Brake line from the wheel cylinder and support the knuckle
     
   • Lower shock absorber nut
     
   • Lower ball joint by holding the ball joint stud
     
   • Upper ball joint
     
   • Coil spring while noting the location of the insulator
     
   • Steering knuckle cam
     
   • Steering knuckle
     
   • Snapring and press out the outer wheel bearing race from the knuckle
     

     Rear hub and bearing
     Click to Enlarge

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   • New wheel bearing into the steering knuckle
     
   • Snapring to the knuckle
     
   • Wheel hub
     
   • Steering knuckle cam and hand tighten the bolt
     
   • Coil spring
     
   • Shock absorber lower nut. Torque the nut to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) for 2002-04 models; 129 ft. lbs. (175 Nm).
     
   • Upper ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
     
   • Lower ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Align the steering knuckle cam and torque the bolt to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
     
   • Brake line to the wheel cylinder. Torque the brake line bracket bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and the brake line fastener to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
     
   • Parking brake cable to the backing plate. Torque the bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
     
   • ABS sensor bracket. Torque the bolt to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm), if equipped
     
   • Halfshaft nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
     
   • Brake shoes
     
   • Rear wheel
     
   • Negative battery cable
     
2. Fill and bleed the brake system.
   
3. Check and adjust the wheel alignment as needed.
   

2-Wheel Drive

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Negative battery cable
     
   • Rear wheel
     
   • Rear brake drum
     
   • Wheel hub nut
     
   • Wheel hub
     
   • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
     
   • Snapring
     
   • Wheel bearing outer race from the knuckle
     

     Rear hub and bearing
     Click to Enlarge

     Rear hub removal
     

     Inner wheel bearing removal-rear hub/bearing
     

     Rear wheel bearing removal-2wd
     

     Rear wheel bearing removal-4wd
     

To install:
Install or connect the following:

• Wheel bearing in to the knuckle
  
• Snapring
  
• Wheel hub into the wheel bearing
  
• Wheel hub nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
  
• Brake drum
  
• Rear wheel
  
• Negative battery cable
  

  Rear wheel bearing installation
  
  hope this helps if so send testimonial comment or even any other questions you have
  

http://www.bikebandit.com/2002-ktm-motorcycle-125-sx/o/m4758#sch465207

Please see this schematic to understand your clutch.
There are springs which press two SETS of many plates together. One set is metal disk construction and splines into the inner hub of the clutch basket assembly. The other set is made up of metal, with (often) compressed cork material - these spline into the outer hub. When the lever is pulled in, the spring pressure is relieved off the plates, and the inner and outer hub are independent of each other. When released, the springs push the plates together, locking the inner hub(engine power) to outer hub(transmission) Now that you understand how it works, I'd say the solution is clear, open up the clutch and take a look at your plates.

your clutch is simply a stack of friction disks and metal plates. The friction disks are splined into the outer hub ring and alternate, one friction disk / one plate / one friction disk / one plate etc. It's very simple to free this up if it's locked up. remove clutch cover. If you are unsure which is your clutch cover, follow the clutch lever cable to the actuator arm. remove the cable from arm and all bolts holding the cover. as you pull out the cover, you will see the arm rotate that's because it's geared into an arm that is connected to the front plate of the clutch basket assembly. You'll see it as soon as you pull it off. now you'll be looking at a round plate with 6 bolts with springs underneath. when you arent pulling the lever, these springs are extended and push the friction disks and metal plates together, thereby locking the inner hub to the outer hub. The inner hub is connected to the crank, and the outer hub is connected to the transmission input gear. So, if pressed together by the springs, your engine running causes your bike to move. Pulling the clutch lever in pulls the spring tension off the plates and allows them to separate. This allows your engine to be disconnected from the transmission. If your plates are locked together you will remove them one by one if you can and lubricate between each plate and disk and reinstalling. Pay close attention to how it came apart. Reinstall bolts and springs reinstall cover, aligning the lever gear teeth with the front of the clutches teeth correctly. put it all together and see if you are okay now.

Torque settings are as follows, at least these are what I used on my '93 UK E1.
Cover bolts 12Nm, Cover damper bolts 5.9Nm, spring bolts 8.8Nm, Hub nut 130Nm.