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How do I install the clutch release shaft on a KX 125?
I have a 2003 KX 125 and I was replacing the clutch
cable when the clutch release shaft came out slightly and would not go back in
place. I am wondering what I have to do in this case. Is this problem easy to
fix? When this happened, I tried rotating the shaft to see if it would go back
in place but no luck. I was reading in the service manual that if the shaft is
removed, then the clutch has to also be removed and the clutch release oil seal
must be replaced. I have removed the clutch cover and pressure plates already. I have a new oil seal, but the shaft will not fit into the crank case properly even with the clutch removed. Any help would
be much appreciated. Thanks!
Re: How do I install the clutch release shaft on a KX...
The clutch arm where the cable connects is on the left and it connects to the clutch via a shaft that pushes a rod which then pushes a ball bearing sitting in the holder and then the holder pushes the clutch operating plate to dis-engage the clutch. The only seal is on the clutch arm shaft that goes into the casing. At worst, only the springs on the operating plate would need to be removed then a 1/4" inward push on the rod from the right side would give clearance for the shaft to be inserted.
. Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
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why not post symptoms first, (like, my clutch pedal is dead) or?
manual or automatic trans/ both have clutches.?????
metro ended in 97 and was then and a Chevrolet nameplate from 1998 to 2001
metro, is covered in all metro, FSM books
all metro forums
see vast links here http://www.fixkick.com/swift.html
online:
and at alldata.com
mitchels.
dont know year, ?
my wild guess. on what is there, M/T stick shift car.
M/T stick
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Transmission assembly and matchmark the flywheel to the engine
Clutch pressure plate cover by slowly and evenly loosening the bolts until the spring tension is released
Clutch disc
Trans out,
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Drain the transmission fluid.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Both front wheels
Backup lamp switch electrical connector
Clutch release lever from the clutch release shaft
Clutch cable bracket and move it aside
Negative battery cable and hanger from the transmission
Gearshift guide case bolts and set the engine wire harness and bracket aside
Speedometer cable
Starter motor
Two right side upper case-to-engine bolts
Install an engine support fixture.
Both drive axles after properly supporting the transmission
Flywheel cover
Control joint shaft through bolt and separate the control shaft from the control joint
Gearshift control lever guide plate and separate the extension rod from the lever guide plate
Support the transmission.
Bolts from the rear transmission mount
Left side mounting bracket bolts
Right side case-to-engine mounting bolts
Transmission through the left side of the engine compartment and make certain that the input shaft clears the clutch pressure plate
I believe the arm is on top of the case on the left hand side attached to a shaft that goes into the case. It also may have a bolt in the side of the case below the arm that has a machined shoulder on it to retain the shaft from pulling out. If it does, remove it.If this is the way it's set up, it actuates the clutch thru a rod that goes all the way across the motor inside the hollow shaft that the clutch is mounted on. I don't have specific experience to the 250 KX, but I've been in the little ones and that's the way they're set up. So here's what you do-
Drain the gear oil and remove the round clutch cover on the right side of the bike. Remove the 5 or 6 washered bolts and the springs from the clutch pressure plate. Remove the pressure plate and you'll see the clutch lifter-it's a short rod with a flat bearing on it located in the middle of the clutch shaft. Remove it and using a small magnet tool go inside the hollow shaft and retrieve the actuating rod. There may be a ball bearing with it as well, although I don't think there is in that bike. Anyway, don't lose it if it has one and pay attention to which end of the shaft goes to the clutch arm. You can now replace the arm. When your putting it back together, rotate the arm with your fingers and make sure the lifter is moving up and down before you put the pressure plate and springs back in. Good luck!
Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
Remove transmission.
Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
INSTALLATION:
Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.
Install transmission to flywheel housing.
Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
Install starter motor.
Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the transaxle.
Gradually loosen the clutch pressure plate bolts, in a crisscross pattern. Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
Inspect the pilot bearing. If it is worn or damaged and does not turn easily by hand, remove it using a puller/slide hammer.
Check the flywheel surface for scoring, cracks or burning and machine or replace, as necessary.
Install a flywheel holder to keep the flywheel from turning. Loosen the flywheel bolts evenly and gradually in a crisscross pattern. Remove the flywheel.
Inspect the clutch release bearing for wear. Replace it if it sticks or does not turn easily.
Inspect the release fork for wear or damage and replace as necessary.
To install:
Structural view of the hydraulic clutch system
Exploded view of the clutch assembly Click to Enlarge
Flywheel tightening sequence
Pressure plate tightening sequence
Lubricate the release fork fingers and pivot with molybdenum grease and install in the release fork boot.
Install the clutch release bearing on the release fork.
Install a new pilot bearing in the flywheel, if removed.
Be sure the flywheel mounting surface and the crankshaft or eccentric shaft mounting surfaces are clean. Remove any old sealant from the flywheel bolt hole threads and the flywheel bolts.
Install the flywheel.
Apply sealant to the flywheel bolt threads and install them hand-tight. Install the flywheel holding tool. Tighten the bolts, in a crisscross pattern, to 71–76 ft. lbs. (96–103 Nm).
Apply a small amount of molybdenum grease to the clutch disc splines and install the clutch disc on the flywheel, spring side toward the transaxle. Install a suitable alignment tool in the pilot bearing to position the clutch disc.
Install the clutch pressure plate, aligning the dowel holes with the flywheel dowels.
Install the pressure plate bolts and gradually tighten, in a crisscross pattern to 20 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). Remove the alignment tool.
Below is process for removing and replacing the clutch assembly.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Regards,
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the clutch disc and cover assembly
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
If equipped with a cable clutch (1982-84 vehicles), disconnect the cable at the clutch release lever and transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
For 1985-94 vehicles remove the sound insulator from inside the vehicle. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.
Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnect the clutch actuator (slave) cylinder line - 1995-96 vehicles
Remove the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
Mark the pressure plate assembly and the flywheel so that they can be assembled in the same position. They were balanced as an assembly at the factory.
Loosen the attaching bolts one turn at a time until spring tension is relieved.
Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Do not disassemble the pressure plate assembly; replace it if defective.
Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and the clutch fork and pivot shaft assembly for wear. Replace the parts as required. If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating, or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.
Fig. Fig. 3: You must follow the specified sequence when tightening the pressure plate retaining bolts To install:
Clean the pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces thoroughly.
Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position, and support with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool, tool J 29074 or equivalent. The clutch plate is assembled with the damper springs offset toward the transaxle. One side of the factory supplied clutch disc is stamped "Flywheel Side".
Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. Tighten them in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure, as follows:
Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm) plus an additional 30° turn.
Remove the clutch alignment tool.
Lubricate the outside groove and the inside recess of the release bearing with high temperature grease. Wipe off any excess. Install the release bearing.
Install the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
WARNING
When adjusting the cruise control switch, do NOT exert an upward force on the clutch pedal pad of more than 20 lbs. (89 N) or damage to the master cylinder pushrod retaining ring may result.
For 1985-94 vehicles, attach the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal and secure with the retaining clip. If equipped with cruise control, check the switch adjustment at the clutch pedal bracket. Install the sound insulator.
If equipped with a cable clutch, attach the clutch cable at the transaxle and clutch release lever. Check the clutch operation by lifting the clutch pedal up to allow the mechanism to adjust the cable length. Depress the pedal slowly a few times to set the pawl into mesh with the quandrant teeth.
ADJUSTMENTS
All 1982-84 models have a self-adjusting clutch mechanism located on the clutch pedal, eliminating the need for periodic free play adjustments. The self-adjusting mechanism should be inspected periodically as follows:
Depress the clutch pedal and look for the pawl on the self-adjusting mechanism to firmly engage the teeth on the ratchet.
Release the clutch. The pawl should be lifted off of the teeth by the metal stop on the bracket.
On 1985 and later models, the hydraulic clutch system provides automatic clutch adjustment. No adjustment of clutch linkage or pedal position is required.
I see. sounds like you need a new clutch. OK, here is a step by step guide to follow. it will help with the removal and installation of your new clutch.
Remove the Old Clutch
Step1
Verify that your vehicle's clutch is the source of your problems and
not the pedal-arm bushings, activating cables or the slave-master
cylinder.
Step2
Unhook the positive battery cable, the clutch cable or hydraulic slave
cylinder to get the transaxle ready for easy removal. Eliminate
anything that may hinder your efforts, including exhaust pipes and the
speedometer.
Step3
Secure your car in a safe position before jacking up the front end.
Step4
Stabilize the engine with a jack below the oil pan. Remove the transaxle by undoing at least one engine mount.
Step5
Separate the engine from the transaxle by removing the bolts that surround the flywheel bell housing.
Step6
Push the transaxle away from the engine until the input shift clears the pressure plate.
Step7
Disengage the bolts surrounding the pressure plate and take it and the
clutch disc out. Check to see if the flywheel's friction surface is
scored, checked or has hot spots. Remove, machine and reinstall the
flywheel, if needed.
Step8
Examine the pilot bearing (bushing) located at the flywheel's center to
be sure the needle bearings are lubricated and that there's no galling.
Also look for any oil leaking around the rear main engine seal.
Replace the clutch
Step1
Follow the instructions for replacing your car's clutch carefully to avoid having to remove the transaxle.
Step2
Check that the transaxle's input shaft isn't leaking; replace if needed.
Step3
Take out the flywheel and the old seal and install a new seal.
Install a New Clutch
Step1
Clean the crankshaft flange before putting in the flywheel. With the
flywheel on top of the flange, secure the bolts in a star formation to
the specified torque for your vehicle.
Step2
Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Prior to putting in the
transaxle, attach the new release bearing to the release fork. The fork
should move freely.
Step3
Hoist the transaxle into position and move it forward until the input
shaft glides into the clutch disc's spindled hole. Do not apply force.
Step4
Reinstall any bolts or mounts that were removed to replace your car's
clutch. Grab the transaxle, release the jack and lower your vehicle.
Step5
Consider replacing your car's clutch cable. If you don't replace the
cable at least adjust it for the right amount of free-play.
Step6
Confirm that your clutch's self-adjusting action is performing
correctly by depressing the slave cylinder's piston into its bore.
Step7
Drive your car to be sure your clutch is working properly.
sounds like your clutch springs are old they tend to get hard as they get old. but even with the good springs you cant move the shaft with your hands . take the clutches and basket out its not hard just remember how it comes apart lol
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