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Anonymous Posted on Mar 24, 2017

17.5 jetting speedfight 3

I have have just bought an installed a 17.5 carb, it came with a 95 main jet. my original main jet in my old carb started at 54 and then i changed the exhaust so put in a 60. i put the 60 in the new carb and am wondering if this is correct the bike rides as before no performance gain. i have kept my standard filter as the noise was to much with a tnt open air filter with no gain so reverted back to stock filter. i have changed the clutch springs and torque springs. there are no other perfomance mods yet. maybe someone with the same bike and mods will understand if im correct with jet sizes. my exhaust is a leovince touring so the best performance pot but not load either. this is why i went to a 60 not a 62 jet as performance was diff.

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Leigh Jones

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  • Posted on Apr 11, 2017
Leigh Jones
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Check your ignition system as there is usualy a restricter built in.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 89 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 03, 2009

SOURCE: honda xr600r cutting out at 3/4 & full throttle

when you put on a new air filter you have to rejet the carb in order for the air/fuel mixture to be correct,because with a aftermarket air filter it is allowing more air in than before and not enough fuel. as the piston speeds up upon exceleration the air is not getting burnt off into exhaust because you do not have enough fuel in the mix

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Anonymous

  • 311 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 06, 2009

SOURCE: 81 xj650lh midnight maxim black exhaust, sooty plugs keep fouling

hi,fairly common problem with modified exhaust,start with the pilot screws,turn right in untill the screws are firm then back out 1 and 3/4 turns,this is a fairly standard rule of thumb that will get most things going,as far as the jets go,the original size would be a good starting point,but you should only need to go up 10-15 sizes to compensate for the exhaust mods(ie stock might be 127 may need to go to138 or 140 etc),the other thing that i would recommend is getting hold of a set of damped carb balancers these will enable you to get the mixtures and carb balance dead right,they are relitively cheap and easy to use and will have paid for themselves the first time you use them.(i regularly get 4-8 sometimes 10-11 extra hp over stock by tuning the carbs up properly).hope this helps

Anonymous

  • 311 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 10, 2009

SOURCE: Which size Jet Kit for 800 Vulcan Classic?

general rule of thumb is to go up about 10 jet sizes,unfortunately it is a bit of trial and error,and you may have to swap out diferrent sizes to get the bike running right,(jets are quite cheap though)but first step about 10 sizes from standard,your local dealer should be able to tell you what jets are in it and supply replacements,if you change to a hgh flow aftermarket air filter you may have to change jet sizes again as changing the filter may effect the mixture ratio in the carbs,,hope this helps

Anonymous

  • 115 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 08, 2009

SOURCE: 2000 Honda CR125 stock jet.

Here is a website to for different jets for the carb.
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/honda-motorcycle-cr125r-2000/o/m2176

Pull out the jet and it should have a number on it.

Now you can use this site to determine which jet you need.

http://www.keihin-us.com/list.htm

This page will help you determine which jet you need for your area.

http://www.4strokes.com/tech/howtojet.asp

I hope this helps

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 18, 2010

SOURCE: What jet sizes???? GS750.

i put 115 main jets in my 77 ge 750 and it will run but was told to jump up to 140 with pobs and 4into1 pipe (SM6) race pipe at the low side run 130 main and leave the stock pilot in. i rorde mine from NE to SD roude trip about 1300 miles got about 62 MPG with 115 jets jumping up to the 140 will drop the MPG but lets be real im not looking for MPG. hope this will help.

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1answer

Carburator jetting

if the carb is fairly old the vibration makes the needle bang aroun the hole of the jet, thus making it larger and richer over time.
Ill try for that height about 3-4 numbers leaner... but be carefull!, if youre rich (gasoline term!)and go higher (altitude i.e. to a mountain) the only problem is that the engine will waste fuel, and a little black smoke... BUT if you are lean (or close to lean-of-peak) and go lower (altitude i.e. close to the sea) you can go dangerously lean and can make a hole in one piston or destroy the engine due to detonation and preignition.
just go 2 numbers, and if going to the beach, re jet the carb.
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1980 GSX1100 Carburators over fuelling starts fine revs freely at stand still - when riding gets to 4500 revs starts popping and pulling back.

By the sound of your description of the problem which was that at about 4500 RPM under load the bike starts 'popping and pulling back' it seems to me that you are experiencing a lean (not enough fuel) condition. Popping and 'pulling back' are indicative of a lean rather than a rich condition. Revving the bike in neutral does not use much fuel compared to trying to throttle it under load so testing it in neutral does not mean much.

Assuming that it is a lean condition that you are dealing with I would pull the carbs off and then remove the float bowls and check out the float valves under each float to make sure they are not partially gummed up and not allowing enough fuel to flow into the float bowls fast enough to keep up with the demand when the engine is under load. Also check the main jet in each carb to make sure it is clear. All the fuel from about 1/4 throttle opening and above goes through the main jet first but from about 1/4 to 3/4 throttle the fuel is then regulated by the needle jet and slide needle. After that, from 3/4 throttle and on, the main jet is the only form of fuel regulation. Either way all the fuel needs to get through the main jet first except at idle and right off idle as that is the pilot jet circuit so the main jets need to be clean and clear.

Also, as the bike is pretty old, when you have the carbs off you need to carefully examine the rubber intake manifolds that connect the carbs to the engine for cracks and splits. These manifolds should be replaced every 10 years or so as when they split and crack it lets air in through the splits and cracks and leans out the mixture going into the engine and will cause the same popping and 'dropping out' that clogged jets in the carbs will cause.
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17.5 carb jetting speedfight 3 rs ac

the carby would have had the correct jet installed for the venturi size
It would have been better to leave it at that and then cut back in jet size
air filters do not affect performance unless they are blocked and it is a fact the so called high performance air filters let larger dust particles through and that cause a shorter engine life
mufflers can be changed to get better performance but it can be a trade off for noise
price is no guarantee of better so consider going to a bike shop that has a bike dyno and asking what muffler make and design will give the best increase in performance then have the bike tuned to get max performance from the muffler and new carby
the real way to get performance is not by guessing but by running the bike on the dyno so all performances can be graphed and improved upon
Mar 24, 2017 • Motorcycles
0helpful
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I have a 90 Kawasaki KLF300 Bayou 4X4 and I am having a problem with it running too rich no matter what I do. I have taken the carb apart several times, reset the mixture screw to factory setting. I have...

Hey Dave,
thought I answered this already,,,??? Classic "brass kit" symptom! >>> You need a "brass kit".. this is the needle jet and the jet needle in the center of the carb. The jet needle is the thin needle that hangs down from the center of the slide... The needle jet is the "hole" that the jet needle slides into...Remove the carb, take the bowl off, remove the main jet, the needle jet holder should be able to be gently tapped out, the needle jet is a short brasspiece,, it comes out through the hole where the slide goes,,, reinstall the NEW needle jet, needle jet holder...(it may have a groove in it for correct location). once its seated, you can reinstall the main jet..NOW >> to install a new jet needle,,, remove the slide from the carb.. remove the spring and seat from the slide that holds the needle jet in place.. NOTE which groove the clip is in on the old needle.... (should be the middle one). re install the new needle, reinstall everything else and your atv WILL run fine for a long time..This is a common problem on ATV's..
you need part #'s
1990 Kawasaki BAYOU 300 4X4 KLF300 C2 Carburetor

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/p/kawasaki/16009-1503/needle-jet-n36w

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/p/kawasaki/16017-1270/jet-needle-6
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My 2008 ttr 230 has been started in months. i purchsed a new battery and it still would not start.

The battery is only the beginning. The carbs are most likely gummed up. The idle jets are plugged, and the old gasoline in there wouldn't help. Your idle jet, (pilot jet, whichever name you prefer) is plugged up in your carburetors. If the bike was stored improperly, or old/dirty gas was in the tank, these jets get plugged up pretty easily. The idle jet is where your bike pulls gas while it has a closed throttle position. Its the smallest jet in the carbs and makes it hell to start a bike when they are plugged up. Good thing for you, is that you only have one carb, and it is very easy to take out and clean. The jets are under the BOTTOM cover of the carbs. You will see the main jet is on a Taller part of the carb and the idle jet is next to that. Here is a picture to help you, It isn't the exact carb, I borrowed this pic from another website. Number 1 is the pilot jet, 2 is the main jet and 3 is where the fuel comes into the carb. This is your float valve. This has to be clear of stuff too or it won't shut off properly and you will leak gas from the carbs. So get yourself a can of carb cleaner and start spraying!
Bruno


rsvbruno_1.jpg
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I have an 86 honda nighthawk 450cc. the choke has to be pulled most of the way out to run. i am an HVAC tech, not afraid to tear things apart, but know very little about automotive carburators. where do i...

that carb is probly dirty as a pair of dentures--it needs takin apart soaked in solvent and meticulus assembly-somethin ur good at but buy a clymer manual for insurance
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What jet sizes???? GS750.

i put 115 main jets in my 77 ge 750 and it will run but was told to jump up to 140 with pobs and 4into1 pipe (SM6) race pipe at the low side run 130 main and leave the stock pilot in. i rorde mine from NE to SD roude trip about 1300 miles got about 62 MPG with 115 jets jumping up to the 140 will drop the MPG but lets be real im not looking for MPG. hope this will help.
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the main jets just unscrew out use a socket if you can but dont over tighten when refitting.undo the 4 screws holding the carb bowl on and the jets are straight in view.
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Overheating

  • First I would go get stock plugs from the dealer. Plugs with incorrect heat range can cause overheating.
  • Drain the oil and replace the oil filter. Refill the crankcase with fresh oil. Also be sure exhaust gasses are getting through the exhaust pipes okay
  • Check the spark timing. and clean or replace the air filter.
Your mechanic probably installed carb rebuild kits in each carb. This is good but the correct main jets may not have come in the generic kits he bought. Too small a main jet can cause overheating. Pull the float bowl of whichever carb is easiest to get to. Remove the main jet and look to see what size it is. There will be a number i.e. 3.0 stamped on the jet. Call your dealers parts department and ask what size main jet is stock. The smaller the number, the smaller the jet. Re-jet the carbs if needed.

I hope you can rate this solution as a "FixYa". Thanks!
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