Km change of belt adjust belt drive rear wheel

CHECKING DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION
Check the belt deflection with the transmission in neutral, at the loosest spot in belt, with the motorcycle at room temperature, with the rear wheels either elevated or on the ground without rider or luggage.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. THEN check belt deflection in the middle of the belt and then rotate the rear wheels and measure the deflection again at several locations around the belt and then select the loosest measurement point and compare that with the proper specifications and then adjust the belt as required by removing the rear wheels, loosening the four pinch block bolts on each side, loosening the jam nuts on both adjustment screws, checking the axle alignment before adjusting belt tension, verifying that the axle housing is tight against the head of the adjustment screw and then using a scale or dial caliper measuring the distance from the face of the adapter plate to the front of the axle housing on both sides. The distance must be within .062 in. (1.6 mm) on each side. THEN turning the adjustment screws until the measurement is within specification. You will reduce or increase the belt deflection by turning the adjustment screw on each side in or out an equal number of turns and then verifying that firm contact is made with heads of the adjustment screws and checking the belt deflection and repeating these steps until belt deflection is within specifications. Then snugging the jam nut against the rear of each adapter plate and again checking the axle alignment measurement and tightening the jam nuts to 15-25 ft-lbs (20.3-34.0 Nm). THEN removing one pinch block bolt at a time and removing all residual threadlocking compound from the threaded hole in the pinch block and using compressed air, blowing out any debris. If a bolt is to be reused, removing all threadlocking compound using a wire brush or awire wheel, applying Loctite Medium Strength Threadlocker 243 (blue) to the threaded area, installing the bolt with a flat washer and tightening it until snug. THEN tightening all pinch block bolts in a crosswise pattern to 41-45 ft-lbs (55.6-61.0 Nm), rechecking belt deflection, rotating the rear tires a few rotations by hand and verifying that the belt does not contact either the battery tray or frame and if either is the case, adjusting the rear axle lateral alignment. THEN installing the rear wheels and tightening the lug nuts in a crosswise pattern to 90-100 ft-lbs (122.0-135.6) and any time a rear wheel is removed and installed, the lug nut torque must be checked within 500-1000 mi (805-1610 km). THEN re-connecting the battery negative (-) cable and tightening the screw to 60-70 in-lbs (6.8-7.9 Nm). ALSO always, after re-installing the seat, pulling upward on it to be sure it is properly and securely locked in position

Remove the rear wheel and then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly and then remove the primary chaincase housing. Support the bike under the rear fork and engine and then remove the pivot shaft and the spacer THEN slip the belt off the transmission sprocket and then install a new drive belt over the transmission sprocket and proceed to reinstall the pivot shaft and spacer after which you can remove the support holding the engine and rear fork and install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain assembly and the primary chaincase cover and fill the primary chaincase with lubricant up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring. Install the rear wheel and adjust the belt to the proper deflection dimension and confirm tat the rear wheel is properly aligned side to side.

To remove a Softail drive belt FIRST remove the rear wheel then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly, then remove the primary chaincase housing, place a support under the rear fork and engine, remove the pivot shaft and spacer, slip the drive belt off from the transmission sprocket.



To replace a Softail drive belt FIRST not that all belts, used or new, must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5.0 in. (130 mm), and must never be bent backwards because this can severely weaken the belt and cause premature failure if it, then install the belt over the transmission sprocket, install the pivot shaft and spacer, remove the support holding the engine and rear fork, install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster and the primary chaincase cover, fill primary the primary chaincase with oil, install the rear wheel, align the rear wheel and properly adjust the belt tension to the specified deflection.

Is it a softail????



To remove a Softail drive belt FIRST remove the rear wheel then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly, then remove the primary chaincase housing, place a support under the rear fork and engine, remove the pivot shaft and spacer, slip the drive belt off from the transmission sprocket.



To replace a Softail drive belt FIRST not that all belts, used or new, must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5.0 in. (130 mm), and must never be bent backwards because this can severely weaken the belt and cause premature failure if it, then install the belt over the transmission sprocket, install the pivot shaft and spacer, remove the support holding the engine and rear fork, install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster and the primary chaincase cover, fill primary the primary chaincase with oil, install the rear wheel, align the rear wheel and properly adjust the belt tension to the specified deflection.

To remove a 2007 Touring drive belt FIRST remove the rear wheel and the rear swingarm, remove the primary chaincase assembly,remove the old belt from the transmission sprocket.

To install a 2007 touring drive belt FIRST install the new belt on the transmission sprocket, then install the primary chaincase assembly, then install the rear swingarm and the rear wheel and adjust the belt deflection to specifications.

Belt Deflection
Vehicle Orientation Model Inches Millimeters
Motorcycle Upright
With Rear Wheel in Air
or On Jiffy Stand
Without Rider or Luggage
FLHR/C,
FLHT/C/U, 3/8-7/16 9.5-11.1
FLTR

FLHRS,
FLHX1/4-5/16 6.4-7.9

You didn't say what MODEL YEAR (yes, it makes a difference!), but here's a generic how-to.

Get rear wheel off ground.
Loosen jam nuts on axle adjusters (if they have one, varies by year).
Turn adjusters equal number of turns until belt tension is correct (belt deflexes 1" with 10 lbs pressure in center of top run).
Tighten jam nuts (if applicable).

Turn rear wheel in normal direction of rotation.
Check to ensure belt is running centered in rear pulley.
If not, tighten the axle adjuster on the side that the belt is pulling towards (if belt is to right side of pulley, tighten right adjuster to move right side of axle aft).

Raise the rear wheel safely (with a motorcycle stand of some type) Loosen the rear axel (27mm wrench works good) Adjust the tensioner bolts at the back of the swing arm(both sides) evenly until the belt is within specs. Turn the wheel forward and check to make sure the belt is spaced evenly between the sides of the rear pulley. Tighten the axel. Double check the belt tension with the wheel back on the ground.

Changing the drive belt on a Sporty is a snap compared to a big twin. First you'll have to remove the rear brake master cylinder and pedal or at least take the bolts out and move it out of the way. Remove the front pulley cover. Remove the rear wheel and the shock on the right hand side. You should be able to work the belt off the front pulley and get the new back on.

When you put the new belt on and tension it, make sure you keep the adjuster bolts of either side of the swingarm about the same length. This ensures that the rear wheel is aligned with the swingarm.

Unless someone has changed a spacer or something , the rear wheel should be centered with the frame, not necessarily the swingarm. The rear brake caliper bracket acts as the spacer on the right side and there is a spacer on the left side. This spacer on the left side should be just short enough to get into the swingarm without a lot of excess space once installed. You should not be squeezing your swingarm more than 0.125 inch or so.

Now, there are other things that will cause the tire to rub the final drive belt. Too wide tire will do this. The '94 models used the old style wide belts unlike the narrower belt used by the later models. If you install a like is on a later model, it's too wide and will probably rub. The next reason for tire belt interference is the rear tire not being adjusted correctly and it is not under the bike straight. Adjust the rear wheel by measuring the length of the adjuster bolt relative to the axle. These measurements should be the same on both sides of the swingarm. If you can't do that, find something about six feet long that you can use as a straight edge to check the alignment of the rear wheel to the front wheel. Keep in mind that there is an offset designed into the front wheel. Just make sure that the rear wheel is as straight relative to the frame as you can get it.

Even with all this stuff correctly set, the final drive belt will be close to the side of the tire but it should not rub.

Are you ready, let get started. For the Drive Belt Inspection it is recommended that you inspect the drive belt annually, and replace at specified intervals regardless of belt condition.

1. Periodically inspect the drive belt for cuts, missing teeth and excessive wear.

2. Adjust the drive belt tension at intervals in accordance with your motorcycle owner's manual (M.O.M.)

To perform the actual belt tension inspection, perform the following:

1. Secure the motorcycle in an upright position. Shift the transmisison into neutral and be sure to elevate the rear wheel off of the ground. This is critical when checking belt deflection or adjusting the belt.

2. Now you need to finf the "tight spot" on the belt. do this by measuring the belt deflection at 4 different spots on the belt as you rotate the rear wheel.

3. Place a mark at the tightest point. Now adjust the belt deflection to specification.

4. Place a tape measure or ruler next to the drive belt to help you measure deflection. Note that some motorcycles, especially the Victory models, have grduations on the belt bracket for reference. Be sure to measure 1/2 way between the front and rear sprocket centers on the lower part of the belt.

5. Use a belt tension guage. These cost about $30.00 and are well worth the expense. Plus you get to add a new tool to your tool chest. Note that the belt tension guage must be kept at a 90 degree angle to the belt to get an accurate measurement.

6. Push up on the belt tension tool measuring the deflection distance with the amount of force required to be in tolerances. In the case of the Victory Kingpin, this is 10 pounds of force with a tolerance deflection of 9mm. 9mm @ 10lbs. force.

Before you do the Belt Tension Adjustment, you need to make sure the wheel alignment is correct. The following with give you instruction and tips on aligning the wheel and belt correctly.

Belt/wheel alignment method 1:

First measure from the center of the swingarm pivot to the center of the axle. Keep it the same on each side. I have Been doing this on dirt bikes for many years and has not failed yet. I use the Motion Pro belt tensioning tool.

Belt/wheel alignment method 2:

This is what I do if I change a tire or belt.

1] Loosen adjusters completly slide tire to front of adjustment slots.

2] run in both adjusters till they just touch

3] Count threads to make sure they are even

4] going 1/2 turn per side. Take the belt to just loose of adjustment

5] Tighten axle nut,and spin wheel about 10 times. To check belt tracking.

6] If belt is to far right loosen the axle tighten the left side an aditional 1/2turn. Opisete for belt to far left.Spin again. You will never get it centered only to where it has a gap on both sides.

7] tighten both sides equaly until you have 9mm of deflection at 10Lb force. At the tightest point