Leaking clutch/break fluid

well it is a manual transmission GEN 10 F150
M50D; M5R2; (both used)
4wd?
gee check gear lube levels first or drain and fill it with correct lub.
this is top of box shifter directly to shift rails , good that.
how many speeds is he box? 3,4,5? seems is 4 speed.
the clutch actuation parts (pedal to MC to slave is top failure
so first gear and reverse can not be selected
25 years of shifting can be $1 part on tip of shift lever making the H pattern dead or random and a huge pain.
i have repaired cars with manual boxes , all clutch parts and rebuilt the box every ,all bearings new and synchro, and bad forks..
wish I could watch you but
key off can you get all gears in the H pattern parked?
or is shifter acting crazy loose.?
can you start the engine in 1st gear now or put in to first gear ,key off then in first gear for sure key off start the engine.? and not have car lurch forward. (yes clutch held down)
sorry all I have are questions transmissions have lots of fail paths.
even M/T boxes do but last way longer. I went 300k miles on mine
and only 1 slave cylinder failure and 250kh on 2more cars.
is the MC (clutch only) full of fluid in its Reservoir. if low drops fast
the MC or Slave is bad and leaking fluid.
fix this first if is true MC fluid loss week by weak ,day by day loss
no complaints starting the engine in 1s gear or any gear.
non, and is A#1 TOP IMPORTANT FACT
OR CAN NOT SHIFT TO 1ST PARKED KEY OFF.
THE STARTER IS DEAD CLUTCH NOT DEPRESSES SO TESTS AR LIMITED.
BUT GEE , KEY OFF AND PICK 1ST GEAR , BRAKES OFF
AND HAND PUSH CAR TO SEE GEE 1ST IS WORKING,
BUT SURE WE WILL NOT BE SURE 1ST IS PICKED, IF THE LEVER TIP IS BAD.

NOW THE HORROR, ALL 3 ENGINES USE AN M/T BOX
THE SLAVE CYLINDER CAN NOT BE SEEN
IT IS A COAX SLAVE DEEP INSIDE, (i HATE THEM)
LAST ONE I DID 4WD WAS 10 HARD HOURS LABOR TO REPLACE.
IF THE SLAVE IS ON THE BELL HOUSING SIDE BE HAPPY.
IF You run the box dry of LUBE the shift fork (1 of many) welds and fuses to the gear and cannot ever be shifted again,and yes I have cured those too.
the shift lever bushing is due.
true name
Trans. code M50D; M5R1/M5R2 Manual Transmission, Plastic shifter bushing
this $2 part does not last long, 100k miles or so
and gets beat to deathh in city traffic.
Part D seen here. at the tip of the shifter stick bottom end
it just dies. and shifter H pattern is loose and RANDOM>

see the video fix this cheap bad part., see blue part
https://youtu.be/c82sTBMzito?t=769

if scared of grease use silicon grease as we use on O-rings.
100% safe that is. grease.
now the shifter works like it did in 1997 ,tight
if still scan no get 1st gear for sure idling Neutro
try reverse too. if reverse grinds or balks the slave is leaking
making the clutch dead and engaged full time.

NO YEAR CAR TOLD. 1999? , in Africa?
ANd reverse will be the worst gear and wants to GRIND./
a stick shift car sure this is easy as the ALL are, compared to complex A/T boxes.
answering for clutch stuck ,not slipping.
I can not start in gear. or car moves. struck clutch.


the clutch slave is bad.
steps to take':
is the clutch MC (master cylinder) fluid level dropping or omg empty or oops sucking air at the bottom of its small flask (reservoir?)

is the MC leaking brake fluid at the MC juncture of the firewall
either side of fire wall? y/n if yes it s bad.MC.
now under the hood
the SLAVE , cylinder is what moves the main CLUTCH leave
does it leak fluid? dripping off its end:?
does the Slave move 1 full inch (2 persons ) as one person depress pedal clutch and 2nd looks at the slave cylinder. rod.
it most move fully 25mm. if not MC or SLAVE are bad. or both are.
OK above passes
clutch is bad.

ask questions,
see the slave move here super short video

http://fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showtime.html#CLUTCH

if you let the MC run dry ,it must not be bleed to work again with new fluid. (just like brakes and for the same reasons)

I suspect it has a hydraulic clutch - some hydraulic clutches share the brake reservoir for fluid. It sounds like there is a leak in the hydraulics for the clutch or the piston in the master cylinder for the clutch is allowing fluid to leak past it. Has the fluid in the brake reservoir been going down?
You may want to check the repair manual (buy a Haynes or Chilton at an auto parts store, or check your local library) to confirm what type clutch you have and the location of the components.

• you need to do some checks(1) check clutch master cylinder container if fluid level is ok if not( empty)check for leaks at slave cylinder and master cylinder if either of the two is leaking change them

First off, clutch hydraulics use ONLY dot 3/4 brake fluid, if you used any kind of petroleum product you have ruined the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave/actuator(GM's term)cylinder. The level is on the side of the reservoir. If you had to add fluid, you have a leak in the system, probably the slave cylinder first. A master cylinder leak would have fluid on the inside of the firewall, where the master cylinder is mounted(leaking at the back). You bleed clutch hydraulics as you would with brakes.

Can be broken spring on the cluch pedal in side the car, that hold the pedal all the way back for full amount of brake fluid to the slave cylender, can be checked by pulling the pedal all the way up before steping it to the floor and putting in to gear or just look up under the daschbord on the pedal. Can allso be to little brake fluid in container. To check the master cylender rubber, step on the pedal putt in gear with engine running and wait with pedal all the way to the floor, if the rubber is gone the car wil start to go after some time (1/2-1 min or less) To check the slave cylender rubber will be dune the same way and working same way but it will be leaking out and on the floor.

Make sure your Slave cylinder has the proper amount of fluid in it and check it for leaks. The clutch is hydraulic on your car so there is no cable to adjust or break.

Think of it exactly like your brakes. When there is not enough fluid or there is a leak, the brakes are soft and the pedal has no pressure behind it making your brakes not work.

Item B in the picture below is where your slave cylinder is. Again, check the connections for leaks and make sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir.

in the break fluid reservoir just use dot 3 break fluid. the clutch line is tapped into the break line so the one reservoir supply's both the breaks and the clutch fluid.

Brake fluid is the same fluid you put in the clutch master cylinder. Any mechanic will verify this.

Doubt it,its too old, sounds like its worn out, plates need changing...;)
Maybe just a loose cable!