On my kawasaki zzr 94 model it appears to be a bit soft in the front forks when hit a hole or a small rut but there is no air or damping adjustment on my model maybe its a oil or spring issue inside the forks

the best oil is the oil recommended for the bike
any other oil may cause problems in the clutch and gear box
shock absorbers are just that and are pistons with small holes and flap valves that restrict the flow of oil through the holes on rebound
there are springs in the forks as well and the seals just stop the oil from coming out the slides
pulling down tight for transport should have no affect

To set up your suspension correctly you need only adjust the front and back suspension to drop at the same time when you bounce on the seat ( fully loaded if touring or two up). Set the back hard or soft, your preference. Then adjust the fork pressure to the match the back. (or adjust the back to match the front if you do not have air forks) So when all the weight of the bike goes into a corner the front and back drop together. This will help prevent the front or back washing out first on a corner.

It's most likely that your fork springs are sagging, your oil needs replacing and you should adjust the preload and damping to get the setting you like. If you have an early model without preload and damping adjustment, then replace the springs with Hagon (

Spring preload FR
To increase the spring preload and
thereby harden the suspension, turn
the adjusting bolt on each fork leg in direction
a. To decrease the spring preload
and thereby soften the
suspension, turn the adjusting bolt on
each fork leg in direction b
NOTE: _
Align the appropriate groove on the adjusting
mechanism with the top of the
front fork cap bolt.
_
CI-10E
Rebound damping force
To increase the rebound damping
force and thereby harden the rebound
damping, turn the adjusting screw on
each fork leg in direction a. To decrease
the rebound damping force and
thereby soften the rebound damping,
turn the adjusting screw on each fork
leg in direction b.
CI-02E
Compression damping force
To increase the compression damping
force and thereby harden the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw
on each fork leg in direction a. To decrease
the compression damping force
and thereby soften the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw on
each fork leg in direction b.
CI-02E
1. Current setting
2. Front fork cap bolt
Setting
Minimum (soft) 8
Standard 6
Maximum (hard) 1
1. Rebound damping force adjusting screw
Minimum (soft) 26 clicks in direction b*
Standard 13 clicks in direction b*
Maximum (hard) 1 click in direction b*
* With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction a
1. Compression damping force adjusting screw
Minimum (soft) 20 clicks in direction b*
Standard 13 clicks in direction b*
Maximum (hard) 1 click in direction b*
* With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction a
_
Although the total number of clicks of a
damping force adjusting mechanism
may not exactly match the above specifications
due to small differences in
production, the actual number of clicks
always represents the entire adjusting
range. To obtain a precise adjustment,
it would be advisable to check the number
of clicks of each damping force adjusting
mechanism and to modify the
specifications as necessary
CI-10E
Rebound damping force RR
To increase the rebound damping
force and thereby harden the rebound
damping, turn the adjusting screw in direction
a. To decrease the rebound
damping force and thereby soften the
rebound damping, turn the adjusting
screw in direction b.
CI-14E
Compression damping force
To increase the compression damping
force and thereby harden the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw
in direction a. To decrease the compression
damping force and thereby
soften the compression damping, turn
the adjusting screw in direction b.
CI-14E
Setting
Minimum (soft) 1
Standard 4
Maximum (hard) 9

Whole process where need to turn toward "a" means clockwise and "b" counterclockwise. From Yamaha service manual. Hope this is good enough info to help you out. Good?

If it has air caps on the top of the forks, you can put a little air in them. If not, the other thing you can do is add a bit more oil to each fork leg.

Add oil or air if air equiped.

you can move them up or down in the triple clamps or if they have air fittings you can add or remove air from them but dont blow the seals out of them they will usually only take a max psi of 13

Bad fork seals, allowing loss of fork oil. Missing fork oil due to mischief or missing drain plug. Fork damping mechanism failure. Huge pothole. Too many wheelies. Broken fork spring(s). Severe bike overload and heavy braking. Front end collision. Air shocks low on air.

Any of those things COULD cause the front to bottom out. Probably the most likely is low oil in the forks. Not likely the damping mechanism could have failed but it's possible.

hi there,,if u can see a air valve on top of the forks, then u can use a bicycle or foot pump to squeeze a bit more air to the fork,, or if there is an adjuster on the fork,ie, a plastic lookin cap with 1 2 3 4 and a arrow on it u can turn that to a comfortable position,, if there is nothing u can see, then u either have not enuff fork oil in each fork leg,,or if there is enuff,, u will need to change the grade of fork oil and replace wots in it,, so id say a more harder grade of oil,, usually there isnt enuff oil in the forks to make it dive into the front wheel,, try topping the oil up,,with about,4or 5 egg cup fulls of oil in each leg,,if nothing has made any difference,, put in another 4 or 5 ,,,any probs on how u put oil in2 the legs ,please do come back in ,and il tell u how 2,, im assuming u do no,, ok ,,cheers

go here for a parts breakdown
remove your forks and there is a allen screw in the bottom to hold the forks together . when you reassemble make sure you put the corredt weight and amount of fork oil.
later paul