I need to remove the carbs from a 1987 Kawasaki GPX 750R. Any tips or suggestions? There is very limited room due to the air box (which can't come out until the carbs are off. There must be someone out there with an easy fix (hopefully)

SOURCE: idle will not stay set where it should be

You have air leaks in the intake that are causing the bike to run lean and idle fast. Normally the leaks are in the rubber insulator connecting the carb and manifold. The rubber gets hard and cracks. Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

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SOURCE: 1987 GPX (ninja) 750R. It has tons of get up and

hi,this might help,you will have to remove the carbs to do it,but check the float levels in the carbs,it sounds like it is not getting enough fuel when the load goes on,the engine is using more fuel  under load and the carbs  cant keep up,while you have them apart give them a good clean out,make sure all the jets are nice and clean,also have a look at the air filter ,a blocked or dirty air filter will also affect top end or"under load"performance,before i forget,when you had the fuel tap apart did you make sure that the gauze filters on the petcock were nice and clean,if they are just slightly dirty they will also affect performance.if the bike has a vacuum pump on the fuel tap,check that the vacuum line from the pump to the pickup point(normally the intake manifold or a point on the vacuum side of the carbs,ie engine side)is in good condition with no kinks or cracks,if it has a kink in the line it will not create enough vacuum to run the pump,causing poor fuel flow  under load,i have just done a repair on an 89 gsxr 750 slingshot that the owner has spent a fortune on trying to get it right,and it turned out to be a $4.00 kinked vacuum line to the fuel pump...hope this helps...cheers

SOURCE: Hi! I bought a Kawasaki

No, their would be no reason to change the piston and rings first up, unless you know that they are worn from the previous owner, Get the bike up and running first and go from their, will be a good chance the piston and rings will be fine.

Change the oil first up as their is a good chance condensation has occurred and put water in to the oil. Drain the fuel from both the tank and carburettor, as this would have gone stale. Change battery or jump start if required.

suspect. With the spark plugs out, crank the engine over a few times. (ensure oil level correct) If it winds over all good, put a few drops off oil in the cylinders. This will help build compression. Re-fit spark plugs, Full choke and give it a shot. Away it should go! Aerostart or ether may come in handy.

Goodluck!

Testimonial: "Thanks! the bike runs kind of fine. It only had a few problems that i`m working on :)"

SOURCE: Hi! I bought a Kawasaki gpx 750r 1989. It was not

Nice bike.
Change the fluids, pour a tablespoonfull of cycle oil in each pot through the spark plug holes and leave at least overnight. That will lubricate the cylinder bores.
If it starts then decide whether to take the top off.
Good luck.
My 1965 Harley IronHead XLCH was not run for 24years and after the above attention, spluttered into life.

Testimonial: "Thanks! it runs almost fine. Minor stuff like cleaning carbs an so that i`m working on :)"

SOURCE: How do you set the

Hi, It seems the float is not doing the job. It is sinking, allowing more gas in. Check for a pin hole in float. shake the float and listen for gas inside. Repair it or replace it. Good luck.