Xt125x wiring diagram (2007-2010)

Sounds like a bad ignition switch. Replace it or do away with the part that feeds 12 volts to the coil
If you can get a wiring diagram for it, find the ignition wire.You could also use a 12 volt test light to find the ignition wire. Cut the ignition wire off the harness under the dash where it goes up the steering column to the ignition switch.Splice onto the end that goes to the coil. The lower end of this harness.
Install a rocker or toggle switch somewhere easily accessible. Preferably a lighted rocker switch. Run a fused 12 volt positive to it, and the ignition wire that goes to the coil. If you use a lighted rocker switch, you'll need a ground wire up to the new switch (so the light will work). When the switch is on, the ignition is on. No more messing around holding the key just right to keep it running.
Or, since the ignition switch you have seems to be defective, take it and have it replaced. There might be a warranty, since a new switch shouldn't work like that. Good luck Garcuda

When you turn the key to on, do the dash and warning lights come on? This would verify power to the ignition switch.

It's like this: you have a positive battery cable with a lot of juice connected to the starter, but not to the starter motor. It is only connected to the starter motor when the start wire out of the ignition switch energizes the starter solenoid, mounted on top of the starter.

So you check the small wire to the starter for power with the key held in start. If it has power then, the starter or the solenoid is probably bad- as long as the battery is charged and the battery connections and starter connection is good.
If you have no power on the small wire in start, trace the start wire back to the ignition switch. You may need a wiring diagram- there is often a start relay, a park/neutral safety switch with automatics or a clutch safety switch with a manual transm., and sometimes a "crank" fuse. All or some may be in the path of the start wire from ignition switch to the starter solenoid. You would need a voltmeter or test light to check this circuit. If you want more help, post back with make, model, year, and engine, and I could look at a wiring diagram for your start circuit, or I could post a link for you to see the diagram.

As far as the terminal board (terminal block, terminal plate) , I assume you mean something like this:

http://img.jpcycles.com/zoom/382-054_A.jpg

You may or may not be using all of the connections (they come in different standard lengths, and might have more connections than you need).

Now, I can't remember which wiring diagram I sent, so I'm starting over with this:

http://shovelhead.us/specs/wire/1976_FL_FLH.gif

The lower diagram is actually an continuation (to the right) of the upper diagram.

On the upper diagram, item #1 (to the right of the headlight, with little spots inside of it numbered 1 - 11) is the FRONT TERMINAL BOARD.

On the lower diagram, items # 17 - 20 comprise the REAR TERMINAL BOARD.

These show how many wires go to each terminal connection (example, terminal #3 in FRONT TERMINAL BOARD shows 5 wires connecting to that one terminal, #s 9 & 11 are not used).

Now your wire colors MIGHT not be stock.

In which case a multimeter would help you chase the wiring:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

Also, do you have a Fat Bob tank center dash ignition switch?

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA5MVgxMjI2/$(KGrHqZHJDME63ZMWiUbBO3tGwQzH!~~60_35.JPG

Or a key switch mounted somewhere else?

http://demonscy.ipower.com/i_pics/ignition_17-124_1.jpg

If the dash switch, this might help:

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/931/dashswitchwiringdiagram.png

If a key switch, three wires would be:
1 - hot lead coming INTO switch
2 - lead going to ignition, brake light, instrumentation (for running without lights)
3 - lead going to lights (headlight, taillight) for ignition AND lights.

Hopefully, this will start you off.

Fire back with any questions

You mean by gadgets, warning lights and gauges? That would be from the ignition switch's run wire, the wire from the on position. This wire sends voltage to the ignition system, and to the dash for the warning lights and gauges-but not directly to the dash-the signal would reach the dash after being routed through the fuse panel to a fuse for the dash gauges and warning lamps. You need to check if that fuse is good.
Recall seeing any wiring diagram? The fuses are labeled either "hot at all times" or "hot in run or start". The fuses labeled hot in run or start are only sent power when the key is on, so power for those fuses are routed through, or turned on by the key being on. Depending on the car and its wiring set up, many will have relays that are turned on by the run wire, and power is then sent from the relay to that circuit's fuse in the fuse panel. This relay may be called the ignition relay. Or your car may have a different relay to send power from the run wire to the fuse panel.
The only way to figure yours out is to see a wiring diagram for it. Then you will see how power is sent from the ignition switch to the dash.
Wiring diagrams are almost always found in repair manuals. Check if your library has a manual for your car. Most libraries have quite a few repair manuals. Or parts stores sell repair manuals too, for about $25. Try to find a Haynes repair manual for your car. The other popular repair manual is from Chilton. My preference is Haynes, just my preference. I been burned by Chilton manuals sooo many times-incomplete wiring diagrams, incorrect information, incomplete information. Haynes are not perfect by any means, you want perfection-spend big bucks for a factory service manual ! In general, Haynes is more complete than Chilton.
OK, enough venting. If you have a test light, check for power at the fuse for the dash (may be labeled "gauges" or "instr pnl", something like that) with the key on. If it has power with key on, wire from the fuse goes to the dash. If that fuse has no power to it with key on, power has been lost between the ignition switch and that fuse-now you definitely need a wiring diagram to find the problem.

Most cars have an ignition chip on their ignition key. This is an anti-theft feature. If it gets damaged or your ignition switch doesn't read it properly your car won't start. Everything else will work your engine just wont crank over. You can replace the ignition switch and key or you could bypass this theft feature. Talk to a mechanic to locate your ignition wire under the dash near the steering column. You can get a resistor (at Radio Shack) that matches the resistance of your key. Cut the ignition wire and put the resistor in its place to reconnect the cut wire. If you cut the right wire and the resistor matches your key you can trick your onboard computer to allow the car to start. This is what I did rather than replacing the switch. Cost of this fix less than $3.00 this way.

I would definitely get a good manual with wiring diagrams. Make sure the CDI has power and ground to the proper CDI input wires, and that all wiring connections are tight. I'm assuming the battery is charged and the starter spins the motor over nicely. There may also be a throttle position switch which will kill the ignition if it senses a discrepancy in the throttle cable position. Try twisting open the throttle while cranking and you may get spark in a position other than idle.
Jordan

Passlock is a passive theft-deterrent system. The system is armed once the key is removed from the ignition. Passlock enables fuel if the ignition lock cylinder is turned with a valid key. If a correct key is not used, fuel is disabled.
You may also want to check the fuse or circuit breaker, and see your Oldsmobile retailer for serviceif you get it started.

You can disable the security! if you like. take off the cover to the steering column. look on the passengers side of the column and you will see 3 small 20 gauge wires, yellow, white, and black. cut the yellow wire. problem solved! security is now disabled. your security light on the dash will stay on all the time now when running but isnt that better than paying hunderds of dollars for maybe nothing? I know this works cause i had to do it on my 97 achieva. Good luck