Performance issue Hi, I?ve? fix ( G16A 16V with fuel Injection system stock engine no any modification )into my samurai generally I look fine however that there is two issues: 1- Some time the speed can go to 170Kmh and some time can reach only 125Kmh with 30% of value of throttle accelerator open and no change if I increase it to full throttle open? I feel that the engine hole at high speed whereas from 1st,& 2nd &3rd gear the speed acceleration fine. 2- For normal drive up to speed 120Kmh the temperature level is normal, if I increase the speed to 140Kmh the temperature will increase! I?ve change water pump and radiator still same! Best regards ZMS ([email protected])

- Converting the electronic distributor of a 2004 Toyota HiAce to a points-based one is technically feasible but not advisable due to complex modifications and compatibility issues.
- Electronic distributors provide more precise ignition timing, better engine performance, fuel efficiency, and emissions compared to points-based systems.
- Electronic distributors are generally maintenance-free, while points-based systems require regular maintenance and adjustments.
- Finding a points-based distributor compatible with the specific 2004 HiAce engine may be challenging and costly.
- Downgrading the HiAce's electronic distributor to a points-based system is not recommended.
- If encountering issues with the electronic distributor, seek advice from a qualified mechanic for proper diagnosis and repair.
- Alternatives include repairing the existing electronic distributor if the issue is minor or replacing it with a compatible aftermarket unit designed for the HiAce engine if complete replacement is necessary.
- Modifying critical components like the ignition system can impact the safety and reliability of the vehicle, so always consult a qualified mechanic for any modifications or repairs.

loosing compression
fuel delivery

if its the DiD ...internal carbon build up

no car stated, huge NPR truck no less.
no year stated
so no free book information on that engine,.
big diesel. 4HL1, no dash letter?
compression at spec.?
glow plugs work.,
filters clean. water in fuel,
does test fuel (spray'd) help? ???
injection problems
lack of startup air.(filter)


The 4HL1 is a common rail direct injection OHC 16V high-pressure fuel injection system diesel engine of 4.777 L capacity with electronic control system. Peak torque is 333 Nm, peak power is 140 PS (103 kW) at 3,000 rpm. Maximum torque is (34.0 kg m)'/1,500 rpm. Bore is 115 mm, stroke is 115 mm.
The 4HL1-N is a common rail direct injection OHC 16V high-pressure fuel injection system diesel engine of 4.777 L capacity with electronic control system. Peak torque is 333 Nm, peak power is 131 PS (96 kW) at 3,000 rpm. Maximum Torque is (34.0 kg m)'/1,500 rpm. Bore is 115 mm, stroke is 115 mm.
The 4HL1-TC is a common rail direct injection OHC 16 V turbocharged and intercooled high-pressure fuel injection system engine of 4.777 L capacity with electronic control system. Peak torque is 425 Nm, peak power is 160 PS (118 kW) at 2,700 rpm. Maximum torque is (43.3 kg m)'/1,500 rpm. Bore is 115 mm, stroke is 115 mm.
The 4HL1-TCS is a common rail direct injection OHC 16 V turbocharged and intercooled high-pressure fuel injection system diesel engine of 4.777 L capacity with electronic control system. Peak torque is 500 Nm, peak power is 179 PS (132 kW) at 2,700 rpm. Maximum torque is (51.0 kg m)'/1,500 rpm. Bore is 115 mm, stroke is 115 mm.

for lots of reasons. how steep a hill, offroad.
50% grade , 99%?
is yours Carb or EFI? 1990 first EFI.
is it still stock, original engine? many are not.
many with carbs, no longer have stock carb. but have weber. as ungrade many do..
just asking for wild guessing, ?
ok, spark plugs are too old.
G(any)
engine cam belt slipped?

some are upgrade to EFI G13 or G16A or B engines.

the stock carb will be bad,, a hopeless case if ever there was... (no kits sold nor parts.)

but lets to the carb hit list.
1: choke stuck on , foods and stalls.
2: float, level all wrong, (will cause too lean or rich , rich is too high) or stuck high.
3: jets all dirty causing horrid lean state.d
4: emulsion tubes (air) clogged.
5: low fuel pressure, or too much if using a usa fuel pump with insane 15psi pressure that carb will fail. or the downgrade to electric pump done wrong. ask me if true.
5: air leaks below the carb cause lean and lack of power,
6: clogged air cleaner or fuel filter.

this is not a guess,
but each takes inspections and testing. fo find it.

the 1992 , has 2 engine choices.
one is MPI 16v G16B engine
and the other is the G16A 8V, TBI SYSTEM.
diagram, (fuel or electrical?)
its EFI so has both.
here is page that shows both on one, page
do tell engine and exact need and we do have it.
see bottom of this page, ?

http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html

for electr,
use search there,
enter "schematics" no quotes

HOT ENGINE? (ill guess hot)
idle surges.(hunts) (very simple reasons or very hard to find.
the car has 2 engines. G16A and G16B
they work totally opposite, (8valve and 16v)
the vin number tells you the engine type ,digit 8 is engine code
6= G16B 16v
U= G16A 8v
i have factory book. its in chapter 0 these facts.
the cause of idle surge and hunt are:
1: ISC failures. the ISC can stick partially open and then hunts.
clean it and test it . see videos of how.
2: engine running so bad the ISC can nOT regulate idle speeds.

#2 is caused by up to 50 reasons.
8v , air leaks, cause racing idle and iSC goes nuts.
16v , all air leaks cause lean and if too lean the ISC goes nuts.

by nuts , i mean it hunts or gives up.

the list is endless, but the tests are basic,
i cant help you because no engine stated.

http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/idle-index-home.html


ISC = IDLES SPEED CONTROLER (a system not just a PART)

depends of still is stock, still 1.3Liters engine?
many are not. after 26 years. still have a carb ?
on the stock motor the pump is driven off the cam shaft.
look at head, see valve cover, ? the FP is mechanical on carb cars.
unless modified.
here are the free books.
all is here if not modifed, if modified post a link to your engine photos. (show carb fuel lines)

http://www.acksfaq.com/sitemap.htm

Let me tell you that I'm also working on that. :-)..
A nissan ga13ds, since it is carbureted, then it is limited on the amount of modifications that are of good value for money, since some of the top end modifications may cost you the price of a brand new nissan sentra + modifications.
Here are some things I did and are planning: -Replace the stock fuel filter assembly to a high performance one. (ex. to a High flow air filter, cold air intake, short ram intake, etc.) -switch to an electrical fuel pump. -upgrade exhaust system. (performance headers, high flow catalytic converter, larger exhaust pipes, racing mufflers. -upgrade to a better radiator (aluminum) + stronger and better fans. (a cooler engine runs a bit faster) -Install an oil cooler again for the same reason of better cooling. -(just my idea) Buy a performance carburetor. (this may be too costly because you might have have an intake manifold custom built) -Replace engine internals to race internals for better performance under High RPM. -Find or custom build racing camshafts to replace your stock. (this will result to better performance at high RPM levels but will not be efficient running the car in a lower RPM range).
You can also improve the performance of the car itself by doing the following: -Saving weight: -Aluminum wheels -carbon fiber/fiberglass/aluminum hood and trunk. -and any other stuff not necessary to you can be removed to save more weight.

I hope these ideas help.

Suzuki G13 is a good engine that doesn't want for much....
To get the most out of what you have you can replace the plugs, leads and air filter and get a good tune up..
A 1-3/4" or 2" exhaust system will help it breathe but don't bother with extractors.
If you need more power, rather than playing with carbies and cams and headwork on a G13 go and get a 16V G16 out of a Baleno or Sidekick along with a Petroworks adapter kit.

Injection is efficient, low maintenence, still runs at steep angles. Stock carb is very complicated to work on, if I had a stock carb with issues I would replace it with a weber. Still, I prefer injected

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jerry_612d8419f8984578