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That shouldn't stop it from starting unless they were hanging out. in wich case you wouldn't be able to kick it over. you would see signs of oil leakage too. do you have fresh gas and good spark at plug?
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"Type of bike" is not clear, but in any case that is not the info you need. If you only need the ball bearings the headset bearings are typically 3/16" or 5/32". Crank bearings for most bikes are 1/4", but one piece cranks need caged bearings. Many modern bikes have sealed crank bearings you replace the entire assembly. We need a brand/model and/or a pic of the crank area or the disassembled pieces. It's also important that you use the proper procedure to disassemble, reassemble and adjust the parts.
A faulty main bearing seal on a two stroke engine
can allow the fuel mix into the magneto area
and cause running problems. Transmission oil
should not reach this area at all. Check the seal
and also check for other possibilities like a crack
in the engine cases. Two strokes can be pressure
tested to ensure a good seal.
Pull the left case cover and take a look. Do you see any rubbing marks on the outside of the flywheel? Any marks on the inside of the cover? Any leaves or other trash at the flywheel? Start the bike with the cover removed. Is the rubbing sound still there? Is it actually coming from the flywheel or somewhere else? Turn the bike off. Lift the flywheel up and down then left and right. The flywheel should be rock solid. If movement is felt then you have a bad crankshaft bearing. Replace both crank bearings and crank seals. It would be a good idea to replace the sprocket shaft outside bearing if any movement is felt when trying to move that shaft. Replace the seal anyway.
Check the problem before riding again. Bad bearings may be letting the inside of the flywheel rub on other internal components. That is not a good thing.
When was the last time new crank bearings and seals were installed? With all the work you have done on the carb I think the problem is the crank seals. But, check the bearings. At rest, the flywheel must be rock solid > no movement up or down, left or right.
If the bearings are solid then only replace the seals. Chances are the engine can stay in the frame if only the seals are being replaced. Best part is that seals are a low cost item.
One other possibility is a partially blocked exhaust system. Check the exhaust first. Checking the exhaust doesn't cost anything. Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the motor. Excite the neighbors by a quick ride down the street with no muffler. If the problem is instantly fixed then get a new exhaust.
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the exhaust gaskets really should have nothing to do with whether your engine will not start. However I assume that by not starting it is turning over smoothly like it should when you try to start, having covered that most motors will not start because no fuel, no spark, or no air not withstanding some major mechanical failure in the valve train or timing or piston, cranks et al.. Trying checking for the obvious first fuel, spark, air flow. then go from there hope this helps
Offhand a couple of possibilities considering it is a 1981 model:
check the usual, if it is not cranking, either weak battery or starter
relay/solenoid. Another to consider is the starter motor or more
specifically the carbon brushes;
ignition switch - check if the coils are getting +12 even when cranking;
CDI - check if the electronic ignition is getting +12 even when cranking;
if it is still a point type ignition, check the contact points, gap, dwell and the condenser;
compression test - worn out rings and/or intake valves would cause low compression making the bike hard if not impossible to start.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy New Year.
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