Kawasaki zx 400 d

SOURCE: kawasaki zzr1200 non starter

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

A few ideas:

• The buzzing/vibration would be the solenoid and it would only do so if the battery's charge is not sufficient to start the bike. If the battery is fully charged, then the sound would be a click/clack;
• to try & free the engine internals, with the plugs removed, sparingly spray the inside of the combustion chamber with WD40 or preferably 2T oil (used for 2 stroke bikes). Let it sit for a while and then try turning the rear wheel while in first gear with the plugs still off;
• alternately, try the starter again with the same conditions as above but rather than one long press of the starter button, try short/momentary press of the start button;
• if the above fails, you may need to gain access to the left side of the engine by removing some of the body works. Some versions have a snap-off circular cover on the body. There would be a disc with slot, Remove said disc. Inside would be a big nut 17/19mm. You would need preferably a T wrench that fits and would be used to turn the crankshaft but not fully forcing it. You have to do it by feel. If considerable resistance, stop;
• remove the entire body work; remove cylinder head with care on the rubber gasket. apply WD40 oil liberally on the camshaft, caps and let it drip down on the timing chain.
• try again using the T wrench.

SOURCE: kawasaki zepher - stalled and now wont start

poor fuel, gummed up carbs. blocked fuel filter, if you in the US get some Berrymans B12 double the dose and put it in the gas, hopefully you can get it to turn and draw it through to the carbs, it should clean them out, also you can try the berrymans spray carb cleaner, remove air cleaner, make sure slider in carb is up and spray a bunch in.
did you have lights when it died or nothing at all?

SOURCE: Kawasaki Mule 3010, keeps getting flat battery, wont jump start

Sometimes when the battery keeps going dead like that, a component may be creating a current draw. you can do a simple current draw test with a fluke meter by setting the meter to read amps, make sure the test leads are in the proper portals on the fluke for an amp test, and disconnect one of the battery cables and connect the test leads in-line with the battery and cable. It would help to know you have a good fuse inside the fluke. They are easy to blow, and whatever you do, DO NOT try to start the unit with the meter hooked up for the amp draw test. That is how fuses are blown. With the key off, check for any amp draw. If there is, you can start unplugging components until the draw goes away. If there was no draw to begin with, you may have a stator coil (or alternantor, whichever it has) that is weak and can't keep up.

SOURCE: Kawasaki Mule 500 KAF 300 starter will not work below 60 degrees.

Using a lighter viscosity engine oil can make all the difference. Try something on the order of a 5W-30 for ambient temperatures of 60F or below. Of course, it could also be that your starter solenoid is in the early stages of failure. You can easily check it by using a large screwdriver to bridge the two large cable connections on the top of the solenoid. If the starter spins when you do this, then the solenoid is bad.

SOURCE: kawasaki vulcan 1500 classic just clicks when

Hi and welcome to the site,

Initially, have the battery externally charged and/or load tested.

Offhand, with a freshly charged or new battery and clicking sound persist, then possibly a faulty starter relay. To confirm, temporarily jump the 2 big terminals of the starter relay. If the starter motor spins, then the fault on the relay has been confirmed. Should still be a no go, then a likely concern with the starter motor or more particularly, the carbon brushes and/or the commutator segments.

Good luck and thank you for asking.