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late model EFI controlled engine ,indicates a Baro slate model EFI controlled engine ,indicates a Baro ensor problem not reporting to the ECM to adjust for less air
Take it in for a fault code check if carbies it could be a float level problem and a air/fuel mixture adjustment or jet sizing problem
your vehicle is equipped with a m.a.p. sensor or a mass air flow sensor. the p.c.m. will make the necessary calibrated adjustments. back in the carburator days you would need to jet the carb- but those days are over. hope this helps
I'd use the mid grade to be safe, you'll probably get better mileage w/premium but save that for long/hwy trips. Around town mid grade should be adequate unless you hear "pinging"
it its fuel injected it will have an atmospheric pressure sensor that compensates for altitude. if its carbs you may have to alter the height of the needle and slightly smaller main jets
Typically, When you go over 3000 ft above sea level you should adjust the calibration or jetting in the carbs. If the bike is very sluggish at 6200 ft you may have to lean the carb out by installing smaller jets and lowering the needles. the carbs are very intricate and should only be serviced by a qualified technician.
Thanks and I hope that this helps.
Steve
The motorcycle was most likely set up at sea level or 400 feet. You have near perfect temperature and not to bad for humidity but the air is thin or thinner then what the motorcycle needs. I did a Google search but was unable to come up with an exploded view of the KTM carburetor. If the bog is that sever off idle you might want to drop a couple of high speed jet sizes. Buy a few sizes run the engine for a little bit and then pull the plug it should be running a light tan to coffee color if it's white then it's way lean and if it's black it's to rich. Right now I'd bet it'll look wet
The generator engine is jetted for sea level. When you run at 24 hundred feet, it's flooding out. That's what you smell. The carb will need to be jetted for high altitude.
The cheapest route is to overhaul the and clean the carb. The only pproblem is that you can have both of them be the problem. On mine I had to replace the jets and overhaul the carb to get it running right. It ran better when I just did the carb but not how I wanted it to.
WHAT MEAN JET? : Carb jetting can be easily understood if we understand the basic principles of carb and engine operation. A carb mixes fuel with air before it goes into the engine. When the mixture is correct the engine runs well. The bottom line is a carb must be adjusted to deliver fuel and air to the engine at a precise ratio. This precise ratio can be affected by a number of outside and inside influences. If you are aware of these influences you can re-jet your carb to compensate for the changes. I'm going to show you some examples of how you can change your jetting for better performance and in some cases increased engine life. As with any engine work be sure you have good tools the correct parts and a good manual before you get your hands dirty! ALTITUDE COMPENSATION: For our first example let's say we find a new riding area WAAY up in the mountains. Our jetting is dialled in for our usual riding area which ranges from sea level to 1500 feet. Our NEW riding area starts at 4000 feet and goes up from there. Going to a higher elevation will require will require a jetting change but which way? Like our fuel density air density can also change. Higher elevations have less air density then lower ones. At high elevations our engines are getting less air so they need less fuel to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. Generally you would go down 1 main jet size for every 1750 to 2000 feet of elevation you go up (info for Mikuni carbs). If you normally run a 260 main jet at sea level you would drop down to a 240 at 4000 feet. Something else goes down as you go up in elevation is horsepower. You can figure on losing about 3% or your power for every 1000 feet you go up. At 4000 feet your power will be down about 12%-even though you rejetted! For our second example let's say we are still at our new 4000-feet elevation riding area and a storm comes in. We head back to camp and ride it out overnight. The next day there's a foot of snow on the ground the skies are clear and it's COLD!. Aside from getting the campfire going and making some coffee you should be thinking about jetting again! Cold air is dense air and dense air requires bigger jets. If the 240 jet ran good the day before you will need a bigger jet to run properly today. If the temperature is 50 degrees colder,,
WHAT MEAN JET? : Carb jetting can be easily understood if we understand the basic principles of carb and engine operation. A carb mixes fuel with air before it goes into the engine. When the mixture is correct the engine runs well. The bottom line is a carb must be adjusted to deliver fuel and air to the engine at a precise ratio. This precise ratio can be affected by a number of outside and inside influences. If you are aware of these influences you can re-jet your carb to compensate for the changes. I'm going to show you some examples of how you can change your jetting for better performance and in some cases increased engine life. As with any engine work be sure you have good tools the correct parts and a good manual before you get your hands dirty! ALTITUDE COMPENSATION: For our first example let's say we find a new riding area WAAY up in the mountains. Our jetting is dialled in for our usual riding area which ranges from sea level to 1500 feet. Our NEW riding area starts at 4000 feet and goes up from there. Going to a higher elevation will require will require a jetting change but which way? Like our fuel density air density can also change. Higher elevations have less air density then lower ones. At high elevations our engines are getting less air so they need less fuel to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. Generally you would go down 1 main jet size for every 1750 to 2000 feet of elevation you go up (info for Mikuni carbs). If you normally run a 260 main jet at sea level you would drop down to a 240 at 4000 feet. Something else goes down as you go up in elevation is horsepower. You can figure on losing about 3% or your power for every 1000 feet you go up. At 4000 feet your power will be down about 12%-even though you rejetted! For our second example let's say we are still at our new 4000-feet elevation riding area and a storm comes in. We head back to camp and ride it out overnight. The next day there's a foot of snow on the ground the skies are clear and it's COLD!. Aside from getting the campfire going and making some coffee you should be thinking about jetting again! Cold air is dense air and dense air requires bigger jets. If the 240 jet ran good the day before you will need a bigger jet to run properly today. If the temperature is 50 degrees colder,,
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