Torque specs for plugs, oil filter bolt and drain plug on 1983 XJ650 Maxim

The torque specifications for a 1997 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide will vary depending on the specific components of the motorcycle. Here are some general torque specifications for a 1997 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide:

• Engine oil drain plug: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Transmission drain plug: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Transmission fill plug: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Primary cover bolts: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Clutch hub nut: 60-80 ft-lbs
• Timing cover bolts: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Cylinder head bolts: 80-100 ft-lbs
• Rocker arm cover bolts: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Rocker arm adjusting screw lock nut: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Rocker arm pivot shaft nut: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Pushrod cover bolts: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Pushrod tube clamp bolt: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Oil pump cover bolts: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Oil pump drive gear nut: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Oil filter adapter cover bolts: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Oil cooler lines: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Oil pressure sender switch: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Oil pressure relief valve: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Oil pressure switch: 25-35 ft-lbs
• Oil pressure gauge sender: 25-35 ft-lbs

Please note that these are general torque specifications and it's recommended to check the service manual for your specific 1997 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide for the most accurate information. Additionally, it's always recommended to consult a professional mechanic or a Harley-Davidson dealer for advice, even if you're a seasoned motorcycle mechanic.

Hi Juan, I'm AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair

Below is the torque specs for the rocker arm as you requested.

SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE

DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. Camshaft Sprocket-Bolt 54 40 - Camshaft Thrust Plate-Bolts 12 - 105 Forged Connecting Rod Cap-Nuts 54 +¼ turn 40 +¼ turn - Cracked Connecting Rod Cap-Bolts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECTING ROD - INSTALLATION) Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap-Bolts 41 +¼ turn 30 +¼ turn - Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Cross Bolts (3.8L) 61 45 - Crankshaft Oil Seal Retainer Rear-Bolts 12 - 105 Crankshaft Damper-Bolt 54 40 - Cylinder Block Drain Plugs 20 15 - Cylinder Head-Bolts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION) Cylinder Head Cover-Bolts 12 - 105 Flex Plate to Crankshaft 88 65 - Engine Mounting (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING) Powertrain Torque Strut 54 40 - Exhaust Manifold-Bolts 23 - 200 Exhaust Crossover Pipe-Bolts 54 40 - Intake Manifold - Lower-Bolts 23 - 200 Intake Manifold - Lower Gasket Retainer-Bolts 12 - 105 Intake Manifold Upper-Bolts 12 - 105 Lifter Yoke Retainer-Bolts 12 - 105 Oil Filter Attaching Fitting 54 40 - Oil Cooler Attaching Fitting 27 20 - Oil Filter 20 15 - Oil Filter Adapter-Bolts 28 - 250 Oil Gallery Plug 27 20 - Oil Pan-Bolts 12 - 105 Oil Pan Drain-Plug 27 20 - Oil Pressure Switch 23 - 200 Oil Pump Cover Plate-Screws 12 - 105 Oil Pump Pick-up Tube-Bolt 28 - 250 Oil Dipstick Housing-Bolts 48 35 - Rocker Arm Shaft-Bolts 23 - 200 Spark Plug 16 12 - Thermostat Housing 12 - 105 Timing Chain Case Cover -M8 Bolt 27 20 - -M10 Bolt 54 40 - Water Pump-Bolts 12 - 105 Water Pump Pulley-Bolts 28 - 250
Should you need extra help visit my website here: http://www.bigasautorepair.com/

"anything is possible"



depending on your vehicle's year make model and engine size, the drain plug and oil filter may or may not be hard to get to



today's era of youtube videos and car owners forums makes it easier than before



look it up to see if it's easy to get your oil filter and drain plug for your car/ truck



SAFETY first! use JACK STANDS & don't rely on the jacks by themselves to hold your vehicle up ~ i've known a neighbor and a co-worker who almost got crushed to death



have backup tools to remove your oil filter in case the previous person didn't lube the o-ring and/or over tighten the filter. i have a strap wrench or correct end-cap oil wrench for my vehicles



depending on how the oil filter is mounted, i usually add some oil right into the filter to get it pre-charged while i also lube that rubber seal/o-ring on the filter....



some say to use NEW oil drain plug gaskets before you torque it down (to specs) each plug has a torque spec; but i got away with re-using it a few times before i replace the gasket.



I spin the drain plug on by hand first to avoid cross-threading ~ then use torque wrench. you don't want this plug to loosen while you're driving on the highway or you don't want to overtighten it and have the threads on the oil pan to strip on you...



do not overfill your vehicle's oil capacity ~ the crankshaft will whip it up to foam, causing your engine bearings to starve for oil



so look up the torque spec for your drain plug, and oil capacity

jack it up, drain oil from drain plug on oil pan when drained remove and replace oil filter also. remove the pan bolts pull off pan and gasket.put new oil pan gasket on if needed.when oil pan bolts are back in, screw them in hand tight, then torque them down to specs and alter nate the tightening so it wont damage pan seal. any auto parts store can tell you the torque on the bolts for your car. good day!

Your oil filter is located underneath the motor. There is a round cover 4" to 5" in diameter next to the drain bolt. The cover is part #1 and the oil filter bolt holding it on is part #4 on the diagram. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1983-yamaha-xs400k/o/m8258#sch208022 To change your oil you will need 3 quarts of oil, a filter, and a new aluminum drain plug washer. You can reuse the old drain plug washer if it has not been squished out of shape. Your motorcycle comes from Yamaha usually with 20w-40 mineral base motorcycle oil. You can use any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different additives and may cause scoring in certain types of cam bearings. Do not use any oil that says " Energy Conserving " on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you choose Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier. Pour in 2.5 quarts of oil to reach the high mark on the dip stick or inspection window. Make sure the motorcycle is upright or on the center stand when checking the level . You will probably need 3 quarts to hit the high mark. Run the motor for a minute or two to fill the oil filter compartment with oil. Now recheck the oil level and top up as needed. If you want to try an inexpensive full synthetic oil that is JASO MA rated 15w-40 Shell Rotella T Synthetic fits the bill at about $22 per gallon. All brands/manufacturers make a motorcycle oil. Some are very hard to find. Just make sure that the oil you pick has the JASO MA Japanese engine Rating to protect your motorcycle engine.

There are actually two drain plugs...look for the 17mm bolts with the washer under the head. The washers are "crush" washers that need to be inspected and replaced if necessary to prevent leaks.
The other bolt that needs to be removed is the oil filter drain plug. It is the large round cap. The bolt has an O ring for a seal. The new filter should come with an O ring for the drain bolt as well as a large O ring for the cover. (Be sure to ask or inspect the box when you buy a new one)
Check your manual for torque specs to be sure and not overtighten. On my '91ZX1100c the torque settings for the drain bolts = 18ft/lb and the oil filter bolt = 14.5 ft/lb. check your settings to be sure.