Question about Suzuki Motorcycles
Sorry I don't know but can yo uhelp me i have 93 intruder need to replace neutral light and hi beam indicator can you just pop off the plastic covering or do i have to take whole console off form behind
Posted on Apr 11, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The Intruder does handle fairly well compared to its' counterparts of the cruiser class, by handling I would assume your talking about how well it behaves in turns...since this class of machine IS the cruiser type do not expect to keep up with the current or past generations of sportbikes as you will fall behind. The best scenario is SMOOTH sweeping turns, the suspension in its' current form cannot deal with irregularities in the road...sportbikes' suspensions are meticulously calibrated for these real world curcumstances...cruisers cannot do this. The raked out front forks of cruisers make for a very stable platform but are not designed to be turned hard. A simple modification that I would myself do if I had a cruiser, would be the addition of a fork brace...a chunk of aluminum that strengthens the two front fork tubes..so that they don't flex (As much!). In addition I would pay attention to the exaust setup, footpegs and any other hard parts that would interfere with agressive cornering(Lean angle).Some exausts hang SO far down on cruisers that they really limit how far you can bend er over...all that stuff needs to be removed, changed or modified so you can corner good up to the suspensions limit.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.
Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
Did you sync the two carbs? If not the rear may be getting all the gas from the rear carb and none to the front. Twist throttle engine off and see if front carb cable is pulling the carb open.
Also unscrew the spark plug boot from the front spark plug wire and trim 1/8th inch off the wire and screw the boot back in. The plug wire end may be corroded on that wire.
Posted on Feb 08, 2010
The problem is most likly not the clutch master cylinder. I have had this problem .The fix is replace the hydrolic line from the master to the slave cylinder.the original from the factory is a mix of rubber and steel .what happens is the rubber swells and will make for a spongey clutch or the steel will corrode under the rubber sleeve causeing a loss in pressure and fluid you will not see the leaks perhaps untill you remove the old line .The neww replacement line from suzuki is stainless steel and not a rubber hose and works really well .It is not an easy thing to install the line if not mechanicly inclined do not atemp to do this repair by yourself..before you take time to rebuild the master do this first and then eliminate the master and the slave ..I hope this will save a lot of time and give you more time to safely ride your bike .It took me quite a while to figure this out it definately works.
Posted on Sep 22, 2010
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