What are the stock suspension settings for a 2003 Honda CR 250 R?
I think I know where the fork compression and rebound damping adjusters are, and the shock rebound, low and high speed damping adjusters are. Forks are inverted 47mm Showa, Shock is ProLink Showa. Service manual is ordered and on the way, but I want all the info I can find. Race sag is set at 100 mm and I weigh 155 lbs.
Re: What are the stock suspension settings for a 2003...
Set your compression out 10 or 11 your rebound 9 or 10 and your fork oil height to roughtly 380cc.since its in 03 u should drain the fork oil out, u have to unscrew the top cap of the fork while its in the triple clamps( because its easier this way), loosen then take the fork out of the clamps, unscrew the top caps and pull the fork tube down and turn the fork upside down to drain the oil out then hang the forks up upside down for about 15 minutes then add the new oil right in the fork tube were you'll see a spring, just add the oil in there and you'll be fine and u should replace it with a good medium weight oil
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bottom of forks turn all the way in, then back out 12 clicks
top of fork - trail riding = all the way out then turn in 2 clicks, track riding = turn in 8 clicks
Rear spring needs to be adjusted so the tip of the rear fender drops 2.75" when sitting on it.
The top adjustment (compression valve) will be close to all the way out for trail and 5 to 8 clicks turned in for track.
The bottom adjustment meters how slow or fast the shock extends (rebound). Stand on something at peg height with one foot on the peg and the other on your stand and shove the bike down. Adjust the bottom (rebound) clicker to match the front of the bike so that both return to top at the same time.
This is a good starting point for any bike.
To fine tune your suspension it is always best to have a suspension tech watch you ride and make adjustments until the chassis of the bike stays flat while the suspension does its work. Usually take a tech 20 minutes to set the front and rear compression and rebound track-side!
set your rear for full comp dampen, and change to a higher oil in the shocks like a 15 or 20 wt and set to full damp. ride and lower the dampening a click at a time until your landings feel soft and smooth. if you are bouncing after landings raise the rebound dampener also.
Spring preload FR
To increase the spring preload and
thereby harden the suspension, turn
the adjusting bolt on each fork leg in direction
a. To decrease the spring preload
and thereby soften the
suspension, turn the adjusting bolt on
each fork leg in direction b
NOTE: _
Align the appropriate groove on the adjusting
mechanism with the top of the
front fork cap bolt.
_
CI-10E
Rebound damping force
To increase the rebound damping
force and thereby harden the rebound
damping, turn the adjusting screw on
each fork leg in direction a. To decrease
the rebound damping force and
thereby soften the rebound damping,
turn the adjusting screw on each fork
leg in direction b.
CI-02E
Compression damping force
To increase the compression damping
force and thereby harden the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw
on each fork leg in direction a. To decrease
the compression damping force
and thereby soften the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw on
each fork leg in direction b.
CI-02E
1. Current setting
2. Front fork cap bolt
Setting
Minimum (soft) 8
Standard 6
Maximum (hard) 1
1. Rebound damping force adjusting screw
Minimum (soft) 26 clicks in direction b*
Standard 13 clicks in direction b*
Maximum (hard) 1 click in direction b*
* With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction a
1. Compression damping force adjusting screw
Minimum (soft) 20 clicks in direction b*
Standard 13 clicks in direction b*
Maximum (hard) 1 click in direction b*
* With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction a
_
Although the total number of clicks of a
damping force adjusting mechanism
may not exactly match the above specifications
due to small differences in
production, the actual number of clicks
always represents the entire adjusting
range. To obtain a precise adjustment,
it would be advisable to check the number
of clicks of each damping force adjusting
mechanism and to modify the
specifications as necessary
CI-10E
Rebound damping force RR
To increase the rebound damping
force and thereby harden the rebound
damping, turn the adjusting screw in direction
a. To decrease the rebound
damping force and thereby soften the
rebound damping, turn the adjusting
screw in direction b.
CI-14E
Compression damping force
To increase the compression damping
force and thereby harden the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw
in direction a. To decrease the compression
damping force and thereby
soften the compression damping, turn
the adjusting screw in direction b.
CI-14E
Setting
Minimum (soft) 1
Standard 4
Maximum (hard) 9
Whole process where need to turn toward "a" means clockwise and "b" counterclockwise. From Yamaha service manual. Hope this is good enough info to help you out. Good?
It sounds like your forks need servicing by a professional. Your instincts were right, they should be about equal length, so something BAD has happened to one of the forks. I would recommend going to a sport bike speed shop that specializes in suspension work to have this fixed since the guys at HD barely know how to change the spark plugs on a Buell in most cases.
A good shop can not only repair the damage, but help you to set the suspension exactly right for you (the Buell manual is just a ballpark setting) by checking the sag in the suspension, and they can even upgrrade your forks and shocks for you.
Arguably the best in the business is Max at traxxion dynamics. They have drop in cartridges that allow the showa forks to come close to the Ohlins used by the pros. Not that the showas are bad, In fact Buell always put decent factory suspension on their bikes, which is why it's repairable, instead of needing to replace it.
That's not a cheap shock to buy but i'm afraid it's blown or bent. Bike is 7 years old..I think it's time for a quality shock like a Fox or comparable..............Good luck to you friend.....Tim
There is too much involved to include everything, but I can describe to you what everything does.
You have compression dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can compress. Then you have rebound dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can extend.
The compression adjuster on the rear shock is toward the top, sticking out sideways where the resivoir mounts to the side of the shock. The rebound adjuster can be seen below the swing arm on the side of the shock.
The compression adjusters on the front forks can be seen from the top. (its the one in the center, the other is an air bleed) The rebound adjuster is in the center of the lower fork leg, and can be seen from below the fork.
The settings are measured in the number of "clicks" from seated. More clicks from seated will be softer, and less clicks from seated will be stiffer. The best thing to do is to see where you are now and adjusting from there. I like to write them down as I go. Turn the adjuster clockwise untill it stops and take note of the number of clicks. DO NOT FORCE IT! You should also check your service manual and take note of the standard setting, and also take note of the maximum number of clicks you can go from seated. You dont want to screw the adjusters out farther than the max, shock damage can result.
You might try changing to the standard settings and try adjusting from there. If the bike doesnt ride at least moderately decent at the standard settings, your shock and/or forks may need a rebuild.
Generally speaking more compression dampening in the rear will result in less bottoming but a harsher ride. Less would result in the oppisite.
More rebound dampening in the rear will result in too slow of extension and packing up which will make the bike swap in the whoops, but it will not tend to buck you or throw you into a nose dive over a jump. Less would result in the oppisite.
In the front, more compression dampening will be about the same situation as described above with the shock.
More rebound dampening in the front forks can tend to take pressure off of the front wheel in corners causing washout, but too little can make the bike want to loop out over jumps.
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