- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This bike and many of the 600 class lose 2nd gear and slip out on hard acceleration, then at easy acceleration as it wears more and eventually the kicking out of gear can bend a shift fork, the parts are not extremely expensive but the labor is going to be high because of a complete removal and teardown.
Hi, Jay32769 tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry. Here is how and where you compensate trouble:
1. Your air/fuel mixture ***** manages your idle.
2.. Your slow speed jet manages 0-1/4 throttle opening.
3. Your jet needle c-clip position manages 1/4-3/4 throttle opening.
4. Your main jet manages 3/4-wide open throttle.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue, please click on the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day. How to Diagnose Motorcycle Carburetor Problems yamaha FZR 600 carburator doing much better https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/2864660-yamaha-fzr-600-service-repair-manual-pdf OEM parts for Yamaha http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-fz-owners-manuals
Sometimes ,if a bike has been store up over winter ,,the carbs can get or become very sticky ,this is generally cause by damp or the fuel gets sediment forming in the jets .if your bike is getting stuck on the throttle .,the best thing to do is to strip down and check that the carbs linking arm is not stiff or rusty ,and while you are doing this remove the throttle cables and give then a good soaking in W/D 40 or equivelent and re oil the inner cables ,Cables can be olied using a baloon filled with thin oil and attached to one end using sticky tape and hung up and allow the oil to soak through the inner cable .You can also give the inner cable a push & pull movement to help the oil get right through the cable ,till it comes out the other end .
The problem you describe sounds like a loose cam chain. Remove the cam chain tensioner and check for proper operation. Your bike is getting older, it may be time to replace the timing chain and / or tensioner dampers. Go to www.babbittsonline.com/parts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx to get parts.Please rate my answer. Thanks.
Bikes like yours with high horsepower output, a high revving engine, and relatively light weight are very sensitive when operated at low speed - and at low power settings. I have found that usually, after getting well acquainted with a particular bike, things become much easier have a fine control over. In the meantime, try running in higher - or lower gear, at that speed. Sometimes that can make constant throttle movements less necessary.
OPen the twistgrip. The easiest gadget is a cable oiler which you can buy at most hardware/ car / bike shops. or else make a funnel to put over the cable end and let gravity carry the lube down the cable.