Can not blled front brake

Bleeding brakes is pretty much the same across all vehicles. However, are you sure that there's air in the system and not a faulty brake master cylinder? The brake master cylinder has rubberised 'O' seals inside which, if worn, can cause a spongy pedal that has to be pumped before the brakes feel hard.



To bleed the brakes you need a length of plastic tube to fit onto the brake bleed nipple on the brake calliper. You can buy a brake bleeding kit which incorporates a non-return valve. The valve allows brake fluid to be pumped through it but prevents air from being drawn back up the tube into the brake system.



You can use ordinary plastic tube, but one end should be placed in a container of brake fluid to prevent air being drawn back in.



1. Locate the bleed nipple. Usually you start at the wheel nearest to the brake master cylinder (and then bleed each wheel in turn working your way to the furthest wheel from the car -if necessary).



2. Before you begin:Put a ring spanner onto the bleed nipple. Put a finger over the end of the bleed nipple to prevent air from entering via the nipple and 'rock' the spanner to make sure that the nipple will actually loosen. It is quite common for brake bleed nipples to seize then shear when turned with a spanner(wrench..). Don't use an open-ended spanner (wrench) otherwise the chances are you will 'round off' the bleed nipple.



3. Put the ring spanner on the bleed nipple and fit the bleed tube.

Get somebody to turn on the engine and slowly - slowly - depress the brake pedal. Undo the nipple slightly and brake fluid (maybe with air bubbles in it) should be visible in the tube.



get your helper to pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and keep the pedal depressed. Tighten the brake nipple.



4. Then repeat for each calliper if necessary.



5. Many cars have a split circuit brake system. That is, the front offside wheel is on the same system as the rear nearside wheel. The front nearside wheel is on the same line as the rear offside.



Here, you would bleed the front brake first and then the diagonally opposite rear wheel.










Plastic tube with non return valve for bleeding brake










Generic image - bleed nipple on calliper.








A bleed nipple. The open end is where the tube fits. Usually, you only need undo a bleed nipple approximately one turn. Use a ring spanner, not an open ended spanner.













Below: Bleed nipple can be seen on bottom right of calliper (generic image)






Below: Ring spanner on bleed nipple with tube attached.

The caliper has a bleeder valve on the top. Have someone push in on the brake pedal while you open the valve. Just keep the valve open momentarily. Close the valve. Have the other person pump the brakes , then do it again and again until all air is out of the line. If you are doing this yourself, there is a brake bleeding tool that works fine. If the system was opened, you may want to bleed the all four wheels, starting on the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder, and re fill as needed.
How To Bleed air out of brake system alone without helper
This video is good.

Your master cylinder seals could be by- passing internally or it is not being bled right.
Try one of those self bleeder kits.Have a clear hose installed on the bleed nipple tightly and have it immersed in brake fluid in a jar -loosen nipple and slowly press the pedal till you see no bubbles in the hose then tighten nipple.ps- start from the furtherest wheel.

You will need a couple of spanners, one to fit the hose and one for where it attaches to the steel brake pipe.
Unscew the pipe connection first and then from the brake caliper, if it a disc brake.
Fit the new one to the brake first and the other end second. You will have to bleed the brake after. For this you will need a glass jar with a little brake fluid in it. Run a little hose from that to the bleed nipple on the caliper. Loosen the nipple and get someone to gently press down on the brake peddle while you watch the jar. Continue this until there are no more bubbles coming out of the little hose, hold down the peddle and tighten the nipple. Make sure that you have fluid in the master cylinder all the time.
You may have to repeat the prosess on the other side but if you do this right then you should not have to.
You may be able to buy a brake bleeding kit which should make the job easier.

hi, try lifting the caliper higher than the brake resivoir, as the fluid will then have to be pumped up hill and the chances of removing the air ar improved, do you have a bleed nipple at the rear mastercylinder, if so bleed it here first, does this bike have rubber rear brake line, if it does you can clamp the pipe close to the master cylinder with some grips useing a cloth wraped around the hose to reduce damage, with the pipe clamped the mastercylinder should be hard when depresing the pedal, if this is the case u can then force the fluid through to the rear caliper by opening the nipple on the caliper then using the on of pumping method using the grips, press down on the pedal with the grips released, dont let go of the pedal again until you have re clamped the hose again, keep repeating this untill all the air is removed and the fluid comes freely from the caliper bleed nipple, finish off with the grips completly removed and bleed as usual at the caliper, all the time not alowing the fluid level to drop low in the resivoir. hope this helps, paul

I may need a bit more clarification, but I am assuming the lever is 'spongy'?
The simplist thing to do first is to tie the front brake lever back (ie make it stay on) using a zip tie. Leave this overnight/24 hours and it will allow the trapped air to rise.
Failing this, you can bleed the brake in reverse. Get a large syringe (ebay/chemist) and some pipe that fits over the bleed nipple and the syringe. Remove the master cylinder cover and **** out (use the syringe) the brake fluid. Now fill the syringe with fresh brake fluid and connect to the bleed nipple on the caliper. Open the bleed nipple and slowly push the syringe in, to force the fluid up to the reservoir. Be careful that the fluid doesent come out of the reservoir and splash on your paint work. Lock the bleed nipple up whilst still slowly forcing the fluid in. This normally works.

Try gravity bleeding. Open bleed nipple and wait for steady dripping. After closing nipple, the lever doesn't have pressure, the cylinder at the lever is defective. It's a go- no go thing. Either it works or it doesn't. good luck

after removing the wheel, remove the 2 bolts on the brake caliper. place a clamp on the flexy brake line to stop fluid loss. remove the caliper then remove the pads. undo the bleed nipple and push the piston back into the caliper. do up the nipple. undo the front wheel bearings and remove the disk. pack the wheel bearings and fit the front hubs. fit the brake pads then the caliper. remove the clamp check the fluid levels and pump the brakes brakes should be done by a professional because if the fail you can only die once
happy motoring

All you can do is try some wd40 on it and try to work it free, if it won't go, then a new caliper is needed. To bleed the brakes, locate the bleed nipple on the caliper, get someone to sit in the car, then when you open the nipple (just crack it), get the person to push the brake pedal down and hold it down. Then close the nipple and release the pedal, repeat this process on both calipers until the pedal becomes right. Becareful when the pedal is pressed that you don't get covered in brake fluid, try and catch it in a container as it is lethal stuff.

I suspect you may have twisted the hose on re assembly. The other possibility is that the bleed nipple is choked with dirt and rust. Remove it completely and see if the fluid starts to run out. If so replace nipple or clean out.

Cheers John