Brand new battery and it is dead
Got a new battery and still want start no lights or anything what could be the problem
I really don't want to insult your intelligence so I am just going to throw this out there to ensure all bases are covered. The battery isn't a dry cell battery is it? i.e. needs acid adding. A lot of batteries are shipped dry. The next thing is to check the batteries voltage if you can. Should be in the region of 13 volts +/- 0.5. If you don't have a volt meter (you can get them really cheap) you can use a couple of wires and a bulb. If the bulb burns bright the battery is likely to be ok. (be careful handling the wires (insulate them - electricity hurts ;) and bulb (gets hot real quick)) The next thing is the connections themselves. Thoroughly clean all connections add a little Vaseline to help prevent future oxidization. Once you have a good battery and good connections and still have a non starter, you need to check fuses. When you have lights and other electrics or at least something, if the bike won't start post back with all the details of what works and what doesn't. :)
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Either the battery has had it or you're alternator has. if theres no lights on the clock when engine running i'd say the battery was worn out. put a voltmeter across the battery before starting, should be in excess of 12 volts. start the engine and look again, should be up around 13+ volts, this will prove the charging circuit is ok. if the battery isn't faulty then you have a current leak somewhere, check all your connections especially alarm systems
SOURCE: Exhaust Pipes on 1995 Suzuki Intruder VS
Hi Lcyr.
Any changes you make to the exhaust system will alter the sound the bike produces. The more you cut baffles,and open up the exhaust, the louder it will get. What you do alter to a greater extent,is the state of tune of the motorcycle. Any changes to exhaust or inlet plumbing will require a retune of the engine to suit the modifications. This can be subtle to dramatic. Opening up exhausts can often rob low end power where exhaust port scavaging is relient on some back pressure for maximum effect.
Best to work directly with an engine tuner to do the mods that are known you can get away with, or buy aftermarket prebuilt pipes that have a known previously tested state of tune. Nothing worse than doing something, that then costs money to put back the way it was on finding out it didnt work as well as was hoped.. Hope this has helped you steer your custom mods a little. I can say with certainty, that I have ventured to do what you are doing many times in the past, and it has always cost me more money in tuning and... and well more parts :) Cheers
regards
robotek
SOURCE: Clutch bleed on a Suzuki 1400 Intruder 2000
One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.
Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.
SOURCE: I have a 1995 suzuki intruder 1400, I'm looking
behind the cover on top of the cylinder, Right side for the front, Left for the rear
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