SOURCE: I have a 1997 Triumph Legend, with approx 2200
If it is backfiring on deacceleration you have a fuel mixture problem and need to "sync" the carbs.
Sync Pro carb tuner works well. This is a precise four channel vacuum indicator designed specifically for intake
synchronization of engines with multiple carburetors or throttle bodies.
Also, if you have not done so, check your plug wires for defects and resistors, if your wires have them.
Good luck, hope this helps.
SOURCE: Hard starting when cold, runs rough at idle and any steady speed.
Your carburetors need to be cleaned. The pilot jets are at least partially plugged.
If you are comfortable doing this yourself, you need to remove the seats, fuel tank, and air induction system before you will be able to get the carbs out. Be carefull when removing the fuel tank, there is a wire harness that will need to be un plugged from it to remove it. The wire harness plug runs under the plastic tray under the seat. There are 3 plastic rivits that will need to be removed to get to the plug. The carbs come out as a pair, and can be tough to get back in the boots.
You need to remove the float bowls, remove the jets, and blow carb cleaner and compressed air through them all. The pilot jets are most likely the only culprit, but you might as well clean everything if your going to all the trouble. You should also blow carb cleaner and compressed air through all of the other passages while your at it. Make sure that you can see through the jets and there is no debris left in them. Make sure to clean the floats, needle valves, and float bowls as well.
Then re-assemble
This happens when the bike sits for long periods. The fuel we get now days has a very short shelf life before it goes bad. Fuel oxydizes over time, and it happens even faster in a small amount that is vented which is exactly as it is when its in the carburetors of a motorcycle. When fuel oxydizes and evaporates, it leaves a gummy mess behind. The pilot jets are the smallest passages that sit in the fuel, so they naturally plug first.
You can prevent this by keeping fuel stabilizer in your fuel when ever the bike will be sitting for long periods of time. Myself personally, when I store one for the winter, I like to leave the carbs empty.
SOURCE: 2005 yamaha yzf 250-unstable idle
I had the same problem, Turns out that my shims were finished, replace the chims and check clearences.
SOURCE: honda cbr 600 wont start
hi, each lead has the specific number on it. if you do this correctly then they genrally give you an idea to where the sit in the coils( the way they bend :-) ) also i believe the coils are better off been attached to the frame once you are sure leads are in corect order and possitioned correctly in the coils.i just presumed the coils neaded earthing. make sure battery is pleny charged as a bad battery can just hinder. it is also very easy to flood the bike so just check the plugs again. if they are unusually wet then dry them off and try again . otherwise maybe try cleaning all electics.
hope this somehow helped
gavin barraclough
SOURCE: suzuki 1200 bandit 1997 running rough at low revs
i had a similar problem on a suzuki gs250t custom, my bike would not start some times and if did start, would run erratically, and cut out, this was after i changed the spark plugs, found out that the supplier gave me the incorrect graded plugs.
Engine stalling and rough run
issue at low speeds
This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
259 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×