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Posted on Oct 23, 2012

93 trophy was back firing when slowing down I changed the pilot jets now it runs rough at low speed have put old jets back in, still running rough so I put the new jets back in balanced carbs changed plugs and leads no change can you help

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  • Contributor 7 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 23, 2012
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Joined: Oct 23, 2012
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Air leaks into the exhause can cause backfiring on the overrun.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 16, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 1997 Triumph Legend, with approx 2200

If it is backfiring on deacceleration you have a fuel mixture problem and need to "sync" the carbs.
Sync Pro carb tuner works well. This is a precise four channel vacuum indicator designed specifically for intake synchronization of engines with multiple carburetors or throttle bodies.
Also, if you have not done so, check your plug wires for defects and resistors, if your wires have them.
Good luck, hope this helps.

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Chuck Marlin

  • 7 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 26, 2008

SOURCE: Hard starting when cold, runs rough at idle and any steady speed.

Your carburetors need to be cleaned. The pilot jets are at least partially plugged.

If you are comfortable doing this yourself, you need to remove the seats, fuel tank, and air induction system before you will be able to get the carbs out. Be carefull when removing the fuel tank, there is a wire harness that will need to be un plugged from it to remove it. The wire harness plug runs under the plastic tray under the seat. There are 3 plastic rivits that will need to be removed to get to the plug. The carbs come out as a pair, and can be tough to get back in the boots.

You need to remove the float bowls, remove the jets, and blow carb cleaner and compressed air through them all. The pilot jets are most likely the only culprit, but you might as well clean everything if your going to all the trouble. You should also blow carb cleaner and compressed air through all of the other passages while your at it. Make sure that you can see through the jets and there is no debris left in them. Make sure to clean the floats, needle valves, and float bowls as well.

Then re-assemble

This happens when the bike sits for long periods. The fuel we get now days has a very short shelf life before it goes bad. Fuel oxydizes over time, and it happens even faster in a small amount that is vented which is exactly as it is when its in the carburetors of a motorcycle. When fuel oxydizes and evaporates, it leaves a gummy mess behind. The pilot jets are the smallest passages that sit in the fuel, so they naturally plug first.

You can prevent this by keeping fuel stabilizer in your fuel when ever the bike will be sitting for long periods of time. Myself personally, when I store one for the winter, I like to leave the carbs empty.

Anonymous

  • 9 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 12, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 yamaha yzf 250-unstable idle

I had the same problem, Turns out that my shims were finished, replace the chims and check clearences.

Stealthy Gav

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 26, 2009

SOURCE: honda cbr 600 wont start

hi, each lead has the specific number on it. if you do this correctly then they genrally give you an idea to where the sit in the coils( the way they bend :-) ) also i believe the coils are better off been attached to the frame once you are sure leads are in corect order and possitioned correctly in the coils.i just presumed the coils neaded earthing. make sure battery is pleny charged as a bad battery can just hinder. it is also very easy to flood the bike so just check the plugs again. if they are unusually wet then dry them off and try again . otherwise maybe try cleaning all electics.

hope this somehow helped
gavin barraclough

shreckstar

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 11, 2009

SOURCE: suzuki 1200 bandit 1997 running rough at low revs

i had a similar problem on a suzuki gs250t custom, my bike would not start some times and if did start, would run erratically, and cut out, this was after i changed the spark plugs, found out that the supplier gave me the incorrect graded plugs.

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I have a 2000 intruder 1500lc. starts fine runs on idol. than the idol speeds up and than speeds up more. I changed the gas and put in some sea foam. thought it might be bad gas. it back fires and runs...

hi, first thing to do is identify if all the exhausts are hot when the engine has been running for a minit or two, probably the backfireing you are hearing is at least one of the spark plugs has become contaminated with fuel and as a result the engine is not running properly on that cylinder, the backfire will be the exsess fuel igniteing as the plug becomes warm and then fires, it may also be that the fuel has become contaminated, causing a varnishing effect within the float chamber, thus blocking or restricting the fuel flow through the main jet, the machine would run on primary jet and of course the choke jet, but would fail to respond on throttle opening through the main jet, try drain old fuel from float bowls, hope this helps welcome to the motorcycling world, the more you learn about the machine you ride, the more you will enjoy rideing it, paul edwards
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Check for an air leak at either the exhaust manifold or the intake manifold. Backfiring on decceleration usually indicates a lean issue but can also be caused by a leaking exhaust gasket. Rough idle can be caused by an air leak as well. The easiest way to find a leak is to spray carburetor cleaner around the intake on the cylinder head. If the engine speed picks up you have found your issue. Also what are the modifications if any on this bike?
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dear rough start, i would suggest that you check the pilot jet in the carb. they have a very small orfice. this involves removel of carbs and cleaning. but try a carb cleaner that is put in fuel such as sea foam or someting similiar then take the bic for a good run down the highway. its worth a shot could solve the problem.
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Hard starting when cold, runs rough at idle and any steady speed.

Your carburetors need to be cleaned. The pilot jets are at least partially plugged.

If you are comfortable doing this yourself, you need to remove the seats, fuel tank, and air induction system before you will be able to get the carbs out. Be carefull when removing the fuel tank, there is a wire harness that will need to be un plugged from it to remove it. The wire harness plug runs under the plastic tray under the seat. There are 3 plastic rivits that will need to be removed to get to the plug. The carbs come out as a pair, and can be tough to get back in the boots.

You need to remove the float bowls, remove the jets, and blow carb cleaner and compressed air through them all. The pilot jets are most likely the only culprit, but you might as well clean everything if your going to all the trouble. You should also blow carb cleaner and compressed air through all of the other passages while your at it. Make sure that you can see through the jets and there is no debris left in them. Make sure to clean the floats, needle valves, and float bowls as well.

Then re-assemble

This happens when the bike sits for long periods. The fuel we get now days has a very short shelf life before it goes bad. Fuel oxydizes over time, and it happens even faster in a small amount that is vented which is exactly as it is when its in the carburetors of a motorcycle. When fuel oxydizes and evaporates, it leaves a gummy mess behind. The pilot jets are the smallest passages that sit in the fuel, so they naturally plug first.

You can prevent this by keeping fuel stabilizer in your fuel when ever the bike will be sitting for long periods of time. Myself personally, when I store one for the winter, I like to leave the carbs empty.
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