Engine light on and showing no.22 on gauge on R1 '06',what is it?

Oil light switch is a normally closed unit so first off test with an ohmmeter to see if there is an open which would not complete the circuit not allow the light to work.Then check to see if there is any current to the oil switch. If there is you could jumper the wire to ground which if the light then goes on indicates that the switch is bad. If no current to the switch you will have to trace back and find out where the open in the circuit is.

There may be no oil pressure due to lack of oil or a faulty oil pump. Check the oil level and add oil if low, then restart the engine and verify that the oil pressure light goes off and that the oil gauge indicates pressure. If the problem still exists you will need to check out the oil pump.

If the gauge shows oil pressure but the light does not go off it may be that the contacts in the pressure sending unit are not opening to break the circuit and shut off the light.
If the gauge does not show pressure it may be that the variable resistor in the sender is shorted to ground.



Locate the oil pressure sending unit on the front right side of the crankcase and verify that the electrical connector is properly connected to the sending unit. If the oil pressure gauge indicates pressure but the low oil pressure light remains on remove the electrical connector from the oil pressure sending unit and using a small jumper wire place one end on the indicator lamp terminal (the closest to the latch on the sending unit) and place the other end on the crankcase. The Ohmmeter must read less than one ohm. THEN start the engine and run at a fast idle. The ohmmeter must read infinity (OL). Replace the sending unit if the above meter readings are not obtained.

If the low oil pressure light functions correctly, but the pressure gauge does not, remove the electrical connector from the oil pressure sending unit, turn the ignition switch to IGNITION and the gauge must read zero. Ground the (BN/GN) wire terminal to the crankcase. The gauge must read full scale (60 PSI). Replace the sending unit if the above gauge readings are obtained but if the gauge readings are not obtained, replace the pressure gauge.

If there is no power to the gauge diagnose the cause could be broken or disconnected leads to the gauge or an open gauge winding. Test by switching the ignition switch to IGNITION and verify that 12VDC is present at "+ terminal on the gauge, then with the ignition switch turned to OFF check the ground terminal for continuity to ground. Replace the gauge if 12VDC is present and ground terminal is grounded. If 12VDC is not present, trace wiring until disconnected or broken wire is found and repair as necessary. If ground terminal is not grounded, repeat the procedure used to trace a for 12VDC lead.

The power lead fro the oil pressure and neutral switch is an orange wire on pin 6 of a 10 pin connector.

check coolant level

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For quirky things like that, I' look first at your ignition switch (common problem). Not the switch the key goes into, but it' located under the steering wheel column cover, on the bottom (black). Did your key get stuck in the ignition too at some point?

It's located in the kick panel called gauge fuses.

Could be a couple of things, one is your ignition switch may be going bad.

The other is, the little stepper motors on the back of the cluster, may be going too, both are very common.

By the way, normal operating temperature for the I6 engine is 210 degrees.

the fuel level gauge just went out na dthats why the light is on. to replace it you have to replace the entire sending unit. cost is $500.00 plus to have replaced. if you can live with it and keep check on your milage, I would wait for the pump to go out.

This is normal and only shows the battery voltage and then swings over to show your fuel tank level so nothing to worry about.This will happen on every turn of the ignition and when switching off it reverts to the battery voltage position so if you cam eover to your bike in the morning for example(with a good battery the day before) the needle would have gone lower before switching to the petrol level indicating a weak battery so it;s only a condition check, as with cars whoi have airbags etc that show all lights then switch them off if all is okay.These are lovely powerfull mopeds and if you look after it and service it it will last many miles trouble free.

Could be a problem with your ignition switch. This happend to me. Battery shown it was charged, then while driving, the gauge slowly would drop. There could be a wire that is shot inside the ignition switch.

IT IS POSSIBLE THERE IS A BUG IN THE SOFTWARE OF THE DASH WHICH HAS CAUSED IT TO FREEZE. AS WITH ANY COMPUTER A SIMPLE POWER DOWN AND REBOOT COULD SOLVE THIS PROBLEM. IGNITION ON DISCONNECT THE BATTERY LEAVE FOR SVERAL MINS THEN MAKE SURE IGNITION IS SWITCHED OFF THEN RECONNECT AND CHECK OPPERATION.

Take the battery out and have it charged up. reinstall it and you should be allright. Your car has discharged it completely, and it will need a recharge to start. The gauge is only measuring voltage, and not the status of charge.