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Very few bikes use 6 volt systems. Mopeds and such. Should be 12 volt. Normal batt should show 12.3 -12.8 Did work recently and now filed? You may have a short killing the batt.
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If your lights are flickering like a security system is going off, but your car will still start, it is possible that there is an issue with your car's electrical system. Here are a few possible causes of this issue:
Weak battery: A weak battery can cause flickering lights and may still have enough power to start your car.
Loose or corroded battery cables: Loose or corroded battery cables can cause a poor connection between the battery and the car's electrical system, resulting in flickering lights.
Faulty alternator: The alternator is responsible for charging the battery and powering the car's electrical system. If the alternator is faulty, it may not be providing enough power to keep the lights from flickering.
Electrical grounding issue: An electrical grounding issue can cause the electrical system to behave erratically, including flickering lights.
If you are experiencing this issue, it is recommended that you take your car to a qualified mechanic for a diagnosis and repair. They can perform tests to determine the cause of the issue and provide the necessary repairs to resolve it.
By "flicking" sounds, do you mean a series of rapid "clicks"?
Usually a series of rapid clicks when trying to start is an indication of low battery voltage, or a bad electrical connection, usually a ground.
Get an automotive jumper cable (use only ONE of the leads, let's say the BLACK one), hook one end to the battery NEGATIVE terminal, and the other end to a bolt head that mounts the starter motor to the engine case, and see if that helps.
If so, it is a ground issue.
An old time Harley trick is to attach a SECOND ground cable to the battery negative terminal, and the other end, remove one starter mounting bolt, slip the bolt through the cable "eye", and reinstall the bolt.
The problem in this case is that most bike engines are made out of aluminum.
While aluminum WILL conduct electrical current, it's NOT the best conductor in the world.
This is why copper jumper cables are much better than aluminum ones, and why they found out (the hard way) that aluminum wiring in a house is no good!
NOW, if when you try to start and you get a SINGLE click, this usually means either a bad starter relay, or bad starter solenoid.
If there's no noise at all your battery is either dead (jump start or new battery). If it clicks then there isn't enough charge in your battery to start the bike (charge battery or bump start)
The battery is run down too low. When the light came on, alternator stopped working- the vehicle ran off the battery, until the lights and other electricals ran the battery down too low. Recharge the battery, and have the alternator tested. It will probably need replacing. If you bring it into a parts store, they will test it for free.
Let me start out by explaining how the light works. The light is positioned in the wiring between the battery and the alternator. It indicates a flow in electricity. If the alternator quits charging electricity will flow from the battery to the alternator and the light will indicate the flow. If the battery is bad electricity will flow from the alternator to the battery and the light will light up. the first thing I do is clean the cables on the battery. Then I start the truck. While the truck is running disconnect one of the battery cables from the battery. If the truck shuts off the alternator is not charging. If the truck runs with the battery disconnected the battery is the problem.
I had the same problem with my TX-SR601 receiver. Solution: I changed the
capacitor C766 (100uF/6,3V) on the "DSP and main microprocessor" or "U1" board. This
capacitor is responsible to keep the settings in the memory. It is directly
next to the SRAM ICs (Q705-706) (type: CY7C1019BV/CV33-15VCT).
Now the receiver works properly again.
the aux battery is bad its uder the hood the generator does start the gas engine but you left the dome light on or something like that it will not turn on or switch to ready mode
Since you've checked your voltage at the battery and alternator and they are ok, I would say it seems like an electrical issue. You need to put the truck on a diagnostic scanner to see what part (electrical part) is malfunctioninig.
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