What color wire feeds the accessories fuse
Hi ! for a free wiring diagram, please visit the website below. If you need more information about a specific electrical issue you can reach me at [email protected].
http://www.motorpartstore.com. good luck and have a nice day.
SOURCE: 1998 harley davidson softail custom primary cover bolt pattern
Are u asking for the torque sequence for the outer primary cover ?
SOURCE: Wiring diagram for the Harley Davidson 2007 FXDB
If you are gonna work on your own Harley, shell out the $60.00 for an H-D manual. They have a basic wiring diagram inside.
SOURCE: harley davidson flstc heritage softail 1997
The fork oil is a very specific job needing a manual and a special tool, I don't want to insult anyones mechanical knowledge but if you have never done it before, best to take somewhere else. Engine oil on the other hand is easy, the drain tube to any softail is on the right side by where the frame meets the swing arm, has somekind of plug in it. Start and run bike for a little while, long enough to get it warm but not hot. Remove fill plug and then remove plug in drain line. Using a peice of cardboard or something put in between filter and frame , directing the oil to your drain pan instead of where ever it goes. Put 1 qt oil back in (after everything is reinstalled) start the bike and make sure the oil light goes out, when it does shut bike off and fill to the point that when it is standing upright you get a little oil on the tip of your finger, over filling may result in loss of oil cap from pressure (been there)
SOURCE: I need a wiring diagram for a electronic ignition module.
If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install.
There are two types available. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.
All you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. They all come with wiring instructions.
Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory. In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.
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Ok, this will get you started. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Once you do that, no problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at [email protected] .
To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions". Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you.
Good Luck
Steve
SOURCE: 2003 Harley-Davidson Softail Deuce FXSTDI
If your starter is spinning but the engine is not turning over, you over running clutch or Bendix is bad. On the Nippondenso style starter on the late bikes, this starter clutch is inside of the starter. You must pull the starter off and disassemble it to repair the starter. If you can do the job yourself, you can repair the starter and save some money. If you're going to have to pay a mechanic to do the work, simply replace the starter. Any money saved by repairing the starter in this case would be quickly depleted in labor cost.
Good Luck
Steve
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