Left light stays on all the time . Right signal works intermittently .
SOURCE: 2006 Harley Street Glide turn signal problems
hi, if you have not yet fixed the problem , the fuse box is located underneath the left sidecover in front of the left sattlebag youll need to remove the bag to get the side cover off ck the fuses thats all it should be ,prolly what happened was a bulb went bad and shorted the circut blowing the fuse for them theyre on the same fuse as the tach and speedo
SOURCE: left turn signal an speedometer
There was a recall on the speedometers about 2004.
Some were defective and just quit working. H-D replaced them for free. Not sure about your year/model, but I would contact a dealer or area service rep to see if it falls under the guidelines.
SOURCE: 2002 harley davidson ultra classic speakers not working
Check the switch I am thinking bad connection on it
SOURCE: 1993 Harley Davidson motorcycle (FLSTC). If I
DeJevu! I thought I answered this already. Anyway, I'll do it again. The first thing I'd try is putting new bulbs in the turn signal lights. Use the proper bulb called for in the books. This is a pretty inexpensive test.
Next, you didn't say whether or not it was both sides or just one side that was not blinking. The turn signals are controlled by the turn signal cancelling unit. I'd try to find someone that had a known good unit that would allow me to try the unit to see if that fixed the problem. I say this because the units are expensive. The last one I replaced costs about $150.
Oh yeah, on the Softail, I think the "tilt switch" located in the speedometer is involved in cancelling the turn signals as well. If the switch is stuck in the closed position, it may be cancelling the turn signal as soon as you set it. The switch is not in the circuit for the four way flashers. You'd have to look at a schematic to tell for certain. Sorry, I don't have one for a Softail.
SOURCE: replacing rear brake pads on 2004 harley davidson
Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper into the caliper bracket. Lift the caliper off the bracket and set aside. Do not crimp the hose as this can damage the hose on the inside.
Notice how the pads and the metal anti-rattle clips are positioned in the caliper bracket. Remove the old pads and clips and replace with the new parts. Make sure the rear pad is positioned with the fiber material towards the rotor. I've seen many put in metal to metal by good mechanics because it's on the backside of the rotor.
Now, you must compress the piston back into it's bore in the caliper. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to do this. Use a rag or something to prevent scratching the paint on your caliper. With the piston compressed completely back into it's bore, carefully replace the caliper into the caliper bracket. Do not disturb the pads or clips.
Install the two bolts with a bit of blue Loctite #242 medium hold on the threads and torque to 20 foot pounds. Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder.
Slowly depress the rear brake pedal and release until you have a full firm pedal. Test the brakes before you ride the bike. Improperly serviced brakes can cause serious injury or death. Make sure they work correctly before riding the bike.
Good Luck
Steve
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