Tl head removal

With the exhaust manifold off. If there is some of the bolt sticking out. You'll need a torch to heat the head up, red hot around the bolt. Also a pair of needle nose vise grips to grab it with and turn it out. You'll have to heat it several times to get out. No bolt showing, you best bet it to pull the head. Drill the bolt and extract it.

What kind of vehicle...most front wheel drives yes..you'll have to undo everything that's connected to the motor then take out all bolts to the transmission. Then the torque converter bolts to fly wheel.and exhaust all motor mounts all wires fuel lines
Remove the hood and pop it out.just remember to keep track of everything you remove I make a video of everything I do .this way I know where it goes.

small block chevy head gaskets are fairly easy to do ..pull throttle body distributor vac lines unplug harness pull intake manifold pull exhaust manifolds loosen rocker arms just enough to get the off pushrods pull push rods make a template of placement you will want them to go back where they came from remove brackets from front of heads a/c alternator power steering ect now heads should be ready to pull after removing bolts of course do install in reverse will torque specs and sequence for install if you do one gasket should just do both and when they are off take to machine shop and have tested and checked for straightness

put in time and remove valve cover, front engine cover, timing belt ,exhaust at manifold, intake manifold and remove head bolts, pull head clean all surfaces replace gasket after head ck for cracks follow specs on bolts and put back together in a shop in would take about 4 to 6 hrs to do .

Too replace the belt you need to remove the motor and base plate assembly, remove the box, remove the front cover over the motor, pull the two wires off the motor terminals, turn the mower upside down,remove the blade bolt and blade, remove the impellor, remove the four cross head screws underneath, there are two more screws toward the front of the machine, once all out the motor and base plate will come out as an assenbly, slacken the four motor screws and push the motor forward, remove the old belt and fit the new one, wedge a screw driver between the motor housing and base plate force the motot forward to tention the belt at the same time re tighten the motor screws, re assemble in the reverse order.

The motor mounts at 4 points-cylinder head, 2 under the front of the motor, and the swingarm pivot bolt. In order remove- seat,tank,rear subframe,exhaust.Remove the motor mount at the rear of the head, leave the throttle cables on the carb, unplug the wires to the TPS and remove the carb.Bag it and tie it up out of the way. Remove top bolt of rear shock and the swingarm bolt, pull the entire swingarm and suspension back as far as you can-you'll need the room to back the motor up a little to get it out of the frame. Unplug the ignition wires, and remove the last 2 mounting bolts from the front of the motor thru the frame. from the left side of the bike, back the motor up and rotate the front toward you and it comes right out. Actually took a break from installing a fresh Honda 250 R motor to write you this tip! Good luck!

Spray the bolts with WD40 several times over a two hour period. Use an impact driver and metric socket to loosen the bolts. The shock from the driver is your best chance to loosen the bolts. In the event a bolt or two does break, you should cut the bolt flush with the head, use a carefully placed center punch to center the bit, then drill the center of the bolt with a 1/16" bit. Then drill with a 1/8" bit and try a screw extractor to remove the remains. If still unable to remove the screws, you might want to contact a machine shop.

The car has three mounts in a triangle configuration. The front trans mount, the passenger side motor mount and the rear motor mount. I do not know if anyone has ever successfully raised the engine to slide the pan out, but remember, if you do this, the pan goes back on with anaerobic gasket maker on it, so make sure you can slide it out with grating on the underside of the block. If you can't, then it will likely be impossible to get back in place without smearing the gasket maker all over and making a heck of a mess. The commonly accepted way to remove the pan is to remove the two front subframe bolts and allow the subframe to drop enough to get the clearance you require. The bolts are 18 mm heads and are really torqued on there so you will need a serious breaker bar and cheater bar to go with it. USE SOLID JACKSTANDS or BETTER YET, RAMPS to do this. The force you will need to apply can take the car right off a single jack.

If you have never replaced a head gasket before the best advice I can give is leave it to a professional, as on modern vehicles there are a number of electrical, emissions, and vacuum connections that can and will cause very serious problems if not disconnected or reconnected properly.

If you feel the need to replace it yourself it's essentially10 steps.

KEEP ALL FASTENERS, AND WIRING HARNESSES ORGANIZED

remove the upper fan shroud
remove the serpentine belt, fan and pulley
loosen and remove the alternator
remove the air cleaner assembly up to the throttle body
remove the upper radiator hose, thermostat, and housing loosen and remove the heater hose
remove all electrical connections from the upper intake, then remove the fuel lines from the lower intake. Good luck with the rear fuel connection as it is snug against the block and the firewall
loosen and remove the heater hose bracket on the intake manifold
remove the intake manifold
remove the remaining bolts from the accessory bracket on the front of the engine and set the A/C compressor and PS pump aside (DO NOT DISCONNECT HOSES)
remove the oil dipstick/filler tube bracket and pull it out
disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust down pipe
remove exhaust manifold nuts, then remove exhaust manifold
compress and remove rocker arms and push rods (KEEP IN ORDER)
remove head bolts
Remove head without prying between head and block
Send head out for machining or replace with new head

Installation in reverse of removal

Hope this helps

hi there, this heater can be a bit fiddly but can be fitted from the back first remove the 10 or possible 8mm nut from the heater and all wires then with a pair of pliars grip one of the terminals and pull the heater 2-3" out then with a small flat head screwdriver start to prise the rubber seal out all the way round until the heater drops out don't be scared to use a bit of force on the seal as your new heater comes compleate with new seal

hope this is of some help murdozzz