Greetings fellow SV owners. I've seen alot of debate on what oil you should use on the SV650S. I went to Walmart today to get some oil and the book specifically says SF 0r SG, although last year I used Castrol GTX 10W-40 in the bike and it ran fine.
This year I went to get more and was wondering if anyone has used it. It's API service SM, SL, SJ, SH The one that says "Unique Anti-Sludge Formula" on it. I know the manual states It can be SJ or SH if it's MA in JASO.
Any guidance would be appreciated, feel free to email me - again, I used this oil last year and the clutch didn't slip, bike ran fine. I don't race it and change the oil often.
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Re: SV650S Alternative Engine Oil
Suzuki recommends the use of SUZUKI PERFORMANCE 4 MOTOR OIL or an oil which is rated SF or SG under the API (American Petroleum Institute) classification system. The viscosity rating should be SAE 10W-40. If an SAE 10W-40 oil is not available, select an alternative according to the information below:
-4°F - 86°F: 10W-30
-4°F - 104°F+: 10W-40, 10W-50
6°F - 104°F+: 15W-40, 15W-50
14°F - 104°F+: 20W-50
Engine life depends on oil amount and quality. Daily oil level checks and periodic changes are two of the most important maintenance itmes to be performed.
Longer, there are no "energy conserving" 10W-40 oils, so no worry about clutch slipping. All other parameters such as manufacturer, mineral or synthetic, cheap or expensive, etc. are a matter of personal preference and open for debate.
You can also use any grades recommended in your manual and/or mix them in any way you want (like half 10W-40, half 20W-50). You can even buy "motorcycle specific" motor oil if you feel like paying more for the same thing.
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Use only the oil weight on the oil cap or owners manual if the cap does not list the oil weight. Most older vehicles called for eather 10w30 or 5w30 depending on the ambient temp. In the past 10 or so years, manufacturers updated engines for better fuel efficiency by tightening tolerances in the engines, thereby needing a lighter oil weight to provide sufficient lubrication for the parts So manufacturers started requiring 5w20 oil in their engines. I work as an Auto Care Technician at Walmart, and we will NOT do an oil change for any weight other than the recommended weight by the manufacturer. If it calls for 5w20, we use 5w20, regardless of what the owner wants. This is to avoid any possible engine oil related problems. People will blame someone else if they have a warranty issue the dealer refuses to honor for whatever reason, and it would go back to the last place the vehicle had the oil changed at. So therefore at Walmart, we follow the manufacturers recommended oil weight for all oil changes.
Oil light on means little or no pressure.
This can be because of a mechanical problem or fault/failure, or no oil, or
wrong oil, or bad sensor. I recommend you trust the sensor until it is proven
faulty. It is telling you there is a serious problem with the lubrication system
. If you ignore this problem, you will probably ruin your engine and probably
the transmission also as both share common oil.
You are going to have to buy some shredder oil for your machine as the blades have become coated with the talc that resides on all printable paper. See: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Fellowes-Powershred-Shredder-Lubricant-Oil/8207323
A click or tick is normally a hydraulic lifter that is sticking. Try this, which I have seen work wonders. Purchase a can of Seafoam Engine Treatment which can be found at most auto and marine stores plus Walmart. Add 1.5 ounces for each quart of oil in the engine. Drive the truck 50 miles and then change the oil using the correct weight as listed in your owner's manual. Change the filter and make sure to use a quality filter such as Mopar, Purolator, Wix, or Bosch. If the tick or click is not completely gone retreat the oil with Seafoam and then drive the truck until the next oil change. The Seafoam will not harm anything and will throughly clean the engine. If the click or tick is still there, you will need to seek professional help. I would bet this solves your problem.
These two are 99% not connected. how high is your oil pressure? this is probably the normal oil pressure and you just started looking at thing since your check engine light came on. you could also have a problem with the oil sending unit itself.
go to garage and have your engine scanned.
if you have any more problems with your jeep you would be better off to post on a jeep forum like http://www.jeepforum.com/ you will get alot of helpful input
fellow Jeep owner
Sounds like the oil pump went to me. Another issure I've dealt with is the drive ontop of the pump that makes it turn can shear off. Its not real common but I have seen it happen. Either way its a pretty major repair and the vehicle shouldnt be driven til its fixed.
I had Walmart give me an ambassador package oil change years ago on a grand am and the nimrods never tightened the filter and the same thing happened to me. Even though I put oil in the engine seized within 48 hrs. Good luck! Get your documents ready because whether or not your engine fails you will still want to sue the oil replacement service worker for subsequent damages due to negligence.